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  #1  
Old 11-25-2006, 03:29 PM
stealth71203 stealth71203 is offline
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Starting problem

I am having a problem starting my 1991 Dodge Stealth. I bought it with this problem, and it has never started since I had it towed to my home. The car has about 178,000 miles on it. The previous battery in it would not hold a charge; therefore, I bought a blem battery. I'm not sure of the CCA. I used starting fluid one day to give it a boost. It seemed like it slightly tried to start, but it did not. I believe that the fuel pump is working since I smelled the typical gas smell when you try to pump the accelerator and start the vehicle. The vehicle was sitting up for awhile before I bought it two months ago.
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Old 11-25-2006, 03:31 PM
miami3000gt miami3000gt is offline
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Re: Starting problem

so is there a spark? does the engine turn over?
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Old 11-25-2006, 04:48 PM
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Re: Starting problem

It is more than likely going to be something electrical. My first guess is a bad/broken connection somewhere along the line. If you have spark it should have started with starting fluid momentarily. Pull one or two plugs out and see if you are in fact getting spark. If you are then it is probably timing related. Otherwise it is possible you could have bad injectors but I do not see that as being the problem.
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Old 11-25-2006, 08:53 PM
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Re: Starting problem

when you put the key on do you here the fuel pump kick on for a second? maybe change your fuel filter and turn the key while its not conected and see if you squirt fuel.. if you dont.. then you know.. if you do.. then you know and you have done somthing you probubly needed to do anyway.. i agree that it is probubly electrical if you used starting fluid and it didnt start.. sl3000 has the right idea with pulling a plug or two to find out.. also just check your plug and wires on your CAS.. mine came loose once
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:39 PM
stealth71203 stealth71203 is offline
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Unhappy Re: Starting problem

I pulled a few spark plug wires, and I used a screwdriver to try and get a spark. I did not get a spark. Also, I tried to get the ICM(Ignition Control Module) checked, but the testing was somewhat inconclusive. They ran a check on it at the auto parts store, and it passed six out of the seven tests. The break circuit test was the only one that did not pass. I'm trying not to buy a part that I may not need since I cannot return it if the ICM is not the problem. Could this possibly prevent the vehicle from starting. Any ideas out there?
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:54 PM
miami3000gt miami3000gt is offline
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Re: Starting problem

try ignition , and starter

ur problem is most likely electrical
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:19 PM
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Re: Starting problem

Does it crank and just not start, or nothing?
Does it click click click click and not start?

I'm guessing it cranks and just wont start, probably due to no spark...

Find out whether there is no spark on all cylinders or just some.

Also, check your ignition coil, your CAS, check resistance on your plug wires, and I'd probably replace the plugs no matter what ($6 NGK coppers)
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96 3000gt vr4
-K&N FIPK
-Proboost mbc
-Cusco front + rear strut bars
-Greddy type-s
-ATR downpipe
-no cats
-15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly.

Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:34 PM
stealth71203 stealth71203 is offline
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Re: Starting problem

It makes a cranking sound, but it does not start. There is no clicking at all. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:36 PM
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Re: Starting problem

Spark on any cylinders?
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96 3000gt vr4
-K&N FIPK
-Proboost mbc
-Cusco front + rear strut bars
-Greddy type-s
-ATR downpipe
-no cats
-15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly.

Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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Old 11-29-2006, 01:00 PM
porscheman9101 porscheman9101 is offline
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Re: Starting problem

towed it home never herd it run? could be a broken timing belt, does it sound like a normal engine crank or does it sound like it is freewheeling???
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Old 11-29-2006, 01:56 PM
stealth71203 stealth71203 is offline
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Re: Starting problem

It basically sounds like a normal engine crank without a catch sound of it getting power about to start. It basically sounds like a vehicle would if it was out of gas...trying to start. I had the ICM(Ignition Control Module) checked, but it failed one of the seven tests. I had them to do the same test on a new ICM, and it pass all seven of the tests. I pulled about three of the spark plug wires and I did not get a spark last night. Again I appreciate any help that I can get.
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Old 11-29-2006, 02:23 PM
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Re: Starting problem

Get it out of hte shop/autoparts store, diagnose yourself. Don't buy parts from them, you can probably get parts cheaper somewhere else, either used or online.

Change your plugs. It's cheap and easy. NGK coppers for now, a buck a piece.

Check resistance of your wires.

Checking coils ...hence why I asked if you are getting spark on ANY of the 6 cylinders???

Checking PTU

If that all checks out, try your CAS
__________________
96 3000gt vr4
-K&N FIPK
-Proboost mbc
-Cusco front + rear strut bars
-Greddy type-s
-ATR downpipe
-no cats
-15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly.

Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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  #13  
Old 11-29-2006, 11:30 PM
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Re: Starting problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Igovert500
Get it out of hte shop/autoparts store, diagnose yourself. Don't buy parts from them, you can probably get parts cheaper somewhere else, either used or online.

Change your plugs. It's cheap and easy. NGK coppers for now, a buck a piece.

Check resistance of your wires.

Checking coils ...hence why I asked if you are getting spark on ANY of the 6 cylinders???

Checking PTU

If that all checks out, try your CAS
excellent advice! don't trust a shop to work on your car, and don't trust an auto parts store to properly/sufficiently test a part. you can do the work yourself, its pretty simple, and we're here to help you along in the process and answer any questions you have.

as for all the things Igovert suggested to check, here's on more to add to the list: Check Timing.
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K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2
coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit
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