volfenhag capacitor

[96eclipsegsx06]

I am installing a sub and amp to my 1996 mitsubishi eclipse gsx and i need help with the capacitor charging. i need step by step instructions on how to charge my 1.5 farad volfenhag capacitor or make corrections on how i think it is done. this is my first capacitor install

positive and negative terminals on battery
connect power cable to positive battery terminal
connect other end to capacitor positive terminal
ground capacitor
where fuse should go in power cable replace with resistor that came with cap
watch voltmeter till its gets around 12volts
disconnect resistor from power cable
disconnect ground from battery
connect power cable from cap to amp
ground amp
insert fuse in power cable from battery to cap
connect negative terminal to battery

if any of these steps are wrong please fix them or if there is a easier way to charge a cap could you please tell me how to do it?

Any help would be appreciated

[blk_srt]

I just hook the cap up the wy its supposed to be(to the amp) and just run the system as normal and it charges in the process

[Dreamspawn]

How big of a system are you using out of curosity because most likley that cap is a waste. Caps are only needed in a BIG SYSTEMS i need one and i hit 146.6dbs. With 2 custom 12s from tc sounds and a 1600 rms amp at 1 ohm. I dim alittle but its becuase of my amp is duel channel and not 1 and i have stock battary replacment.

[blk_srt]

I was running 2 rockford 600x2 watt rms amps and 2 audiobahn 1200q subs in a 1g crx with a 1 farad

[Dreamspawn]

ok? what i'm saying it he probably doesn't need it and you didn't with that system either. I dont mean to sound like a ass but usally if you use a cap you are hiding the problem that you are dropping volts rather then fixing it by upgrading the battary or amp/s.

[blk_srt]

Sometimes there isnt another option. When you have a 85 crx there isnt an upgraded alt and I had a yellow top.

[Dreamspawn]

In the case of running out alternator,amp, wire, battary and all then yes a cap is good. But last case scenario really i think

[blk_srt]

well lets do the math here. Dry cell batteries are around $140 depending on what you get and where you go. Higher amp alternators are cheapest $150 if you find a good deal. And you can pick up a 3 farad audiobahn amp style cap for less than $130 to me its a no brainer and then it can be used in any vehicle that you want and it adds the "bling" factor.

[EDMUND65]

haha i run 2 junk 10" off brand "jensen" subs in seperate boxes with a jesen 400watt 4 channel amp and my lights dim like a mother f'kr

[blk_srt]

you think thats bad, try rolling down all your windows at once while turning on your rear defrost. but seriously my lights dim with my factory 100 watt kicker sub and amp

[EDMUND65]

on your new car?

[Dreamspawn]

Originally Posted by blk_srt

well lets do the math here. Dry cell batteries are around $140 depending on what you get and where you go. Higher amp alternators are cheapest $150 if you find a good deal. And you can pick up a 3 farad audiobahn amp style cap for less than $130 to me its a no brainer and then it can be used in any vehicle that you want and it adds the "bling" factor.

Still you are hiding the problem though you alternator and/or your battary will still be straining and will FAIL so you will have to be a new one any ways. And bling factor anyone that knows bout car stero stuff will be like you dont need that. I dont mean to sound like a ass but go to the audio section here or anywhere and ask bout caps and they will all usally say last resort.

Originally Posted by blk_srt

you think thats bad, try rolling down all your windows at once while turning on your rear defrost. but seriously my lights dim with my factory 100 watt kicker sub and amp

What do you mean by rolling down your windows at once while turning your rear defrost on? Are you saying your sys did that b/c if so deff raising the flag. B/c there are 150+db systems that wont do that. There is one guy on realm of excurision with 8 Solo Barics that raises his drivers window but that alot of money into a system. still cheaper then the cap should be the Big three wiring upgrade which will help out ALOT

[blk_srt]

You can call bs all you want but you obviouslt dont understand how the defrost system works. There are more amps going through your rear defrost than any other system on your car. If you go into just about any factory car and use the power windows and the rear defrost at once the lights will dim. And yes my factory 100watt sub will dim my light, not that bad but you can tell if you pay attention. Also dont talk to me like I'm an idiot.

[vanilla gorilla]

Originally Posted by Dreamspawn

Still you are hiding the problem though you alternator and/or your battary will still be straining and will FAIL so you will have to be a new one any ways. And bling factor anyone that knows bout car stero stuff will be like you dont need that. I dont mean to sound like a ass but go to the audio section here or anywhere and ask bout caps and they will all usally say last resort.



What do you mean by rolling down your windows at once while turning your rear defrost on? Are you saying your sys did that b/c if so deff raising the flag. B/c there are 150+db systems that wont do that. There is one guy on realm of excurision with 8 Solo Barics that raises his drivers window but that alot of money into a system. still cheaper then the cap should be the Big three wiring upgrade which will help out ALOT

Just shut up. Your acting like an ass and trying to make yourself sound so much smarter than everyone else, when in reality its apparent that you don't know too much about audio systems yourself. I have built cars for SPL and competed in SPL. Anyone thats knows their shit will tell you that every little
bit helps. Once you get in the 140's every db is that much harder to get and you need as much help as you can get. Any audio system can benifit from a cap, and the addition of extra batterys isn't a bad idea either. You need as much energy as you can get, because you don't realize how much power is lost after each hit.

Also you were talking about some cat with some huge system and how he has 8 subs or w/e. Its not about how many subs you got its about how many amps you got. The loudest guy in the world only has like 13 or so (forgot the exact #) premier subs but 50+ amps.

Back to the point: The thread starter asked how to hook up his cap, not if he needed it or not.

[Thor06]

Whoa whoa guys, lets keep this clean. This is a good technical discussion, but lets keep the personal attacks out of it.

I too believe that while capacitors are nice and any system can benefit from them, they are not needed until you are climbing the db ladder. I however, dont particularly get off on how loud my system is, simply beause A) it hurts my ears (I still have good hearing and I like to keep it that way) and B) going booming down the street and letting everyone know what shit you are running is how you get it stolen. Like 8/10 guys I knew back home with mildly reputable systems have had something stolen atleast once. I say fuck that, thats why I doubt I am even going to put a deck in the Talon, that and I will be saving like 40-50 lbs with no deck or speakers. The only music I need is the rough idle, roaring engine, exhaust drone, BOV whistle, and tires screaming for traction . If I need music that bad, I will either be ghetto and bring a power transformer and a boom box or my iPod.