Car Won't Start...Fuel Pump

[cubanreuben]

Hey guys...As you know, my car has some serious issues...I thought all of my problems were fixed, until I was on my way to my parents for Thanksgiving Break.

While driving, I noticed my car began to drive really rough--I was on the interstate with the cruise-control, and the rpms were jumping like the transmission was screwing up. When I turned the cruise control off, everytime I tried to give it gas (because at this time, the car had lost 20 mph, and traffic was packed b/c of Holiday traffic), the car's engine would lurge and jump. I was approaching my exit, so I figured I could make it home (I was less than 10 minutes away). I was wrong. Upon taking the exit and trying to accelerate, my car died. I was able to roll to the side of the road. At first, I thought my electrical system was screwed (like the car didn't recognize the key). I didn't notice the security light on, but I decided to try a key-relearn. It didn't work. I called a tow-truck, and they towed it to my house.

After paying the guy $150 for the tow, I started looking at my car...I had nothing else to do, because my parents wouldn't be here to pick me up for another 2 hrs. Upon putting the key in the car and turning it just to the on position, I noticed that I didn't hear the fuel pump like I usually do. So, I checked the relays/fuses, and they all appeared to be functioning. So, is it the fuel pump??? Or, could the PCM be dying since I already have an overheating problem, and the dealer has established it's not an thermostat problem?

Where is the fuel pump located??? Is it easy to change?

Also, should I ditch the car??? This is the 5th time it's left me stranded, and I'm beginning to hate the car.

[maxwedge]

You must confirm whether fp is building pressure, tested at the injector rail. If ok it's another problem, if not you must check for 12v going to the pump, if ok the pump is bad, for now try hitting the bottom of the tank and see if it starts, then you know that is the problem. Try and post the year, engine, and miles in future posts. Good luck.

[cubanreuben]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

You must confirm whether fp is building pressure, tested at the injector rail. If ok it's another problem, if not you must check for 12v going to the pump, if ok the pump is bad, for now try hitting the bottom of the tank and see if it starts, then you know that is the problem. Try and post the year, engine, and miles in future posts. Good luck.

Thanks for the idea. When I get back, I'll try that. Sorry about the missing information. I own a 2003 Oldsmobile Alero GL1 with the 2.2L Ecotec. It has 54,250 miles. Is it possible that a fuel pump would really go out this early in the life of the vehicle? I've replaced the fuel filter twice.

I also think I should mention that the wrecker guy beat the bottom of the gas tank, and I really didn't know what he was doing; the car still didn't start anyways. Thanks for your reply. Should I ditch the car since I've already made almost $1500 in repairs from 16,000-54000 miles??? I still owe $6500 on the car!

[maxwedge]

A car that new with that few miles should be a keeper, I am sure a competent tech can repair this after the proper diagnosis, looks like the beat the tank trick has been tried.

[gbryan]

The fuel pump circuit is a fairly small circuit, check the voltage feeding the pump in the underhood junction box at the relay point with the relay out. If the voltage checks out, check it again with the relay in, it should be reasonably close to what you had before. If not, you could be losing voltage through the ignition switch like I did. Cleaning my contacts in the switch cured mine.

Also, you mentioned the security light being on when the car died. The security light, or passlock system, should not shut down your engine while running, only stop it from cranking when it is already off. Hope this helps.

[cubanreuben]

Originally Posted by gbryan

The fuel pump circuit is a fairly small circuit, check the voltage feeding the pump in the underhood junction box at the relay point with the relay out. If the voltage checks out, check it again with the relay in, it should be reasonably close to what you had before. If not, you could be losing voltage through the ignition switch like I did. Cleaning my contacts in the switch cured mine.

Also, you mentioned the security light being on when the car died. The security light, or passlock system, should not shut down your engine while running, only stop it from cranking when it is already off. Hope this helps.

My security light WAS NOT on, but I did a key relearn anyway....it didn't work. But, that is besides the point now...

Today, I drove back to Little Rock, and had my vehicle towed to the dealership. (The fuel pump WAS getting voltage, so I figured it was dead, since I couldn't hear it and there was zero fuel pressure in the line.) Anyways, they diagnosed it within an hour, and told me that they needed to replace the fuel pump, because it was indeed bad. They said they'd also replace the fuel filter. So...Diagnostic charge--> 96.96...Tow Charges (both of them)-->199.97...Fuel Pump & Labor--> 749.47...which yields a grand total of 1046.40 for this repair. I am SERIOUSLY fed up. Luckily, my parents decided to fix this problem because they wanted to give me my Christmas...apparently for the rest of my life .

Don't you think that this repair is a little high??? Or is it just me? I will NEVER EVER buy another American car.

[cubanreuben]

Originally Posted by cubanreuben

My security light WAS NOT on, but I did a key relearn anyway....it didn't work. But, that is besides the point now...

Today, I drove back to Little Rock, and had my vehicle towed to the dealership. (The fuel pump WAS getting voltage, so I figured it was dead, since I couldn't hear it and there was zero fuel pressure in the line.) Anyways, they diagnosed it within an hour, and told me that they needed to replace the fuel pump, because it was indeed bad. They said they'd also replace the fuel filter. So...Diagnostic charge--> 96.96...Tow Charges (both of them)-->199.97...Fuel Pump & Labor--> 749.47...which yields a grand total of 1046.40 for this repair. I am SERIOUSLY fed up. Luckily, my parents decided to fix this problem because they wanted to give me my Christmas...apparently for the rest of my life .

Don't you think that this repair is a little high??? Or is it just me? I will NEVER EVER buy another American car.

Well, here's the update. I went to pick my car up today. Paid 1041.08, and drove the car back home. It seems to be working fine. Here's the thing that seems dangerous to me. (However, I don't know a lot about fuel pumps...) On the technical report, it says that there was no fuel pressure--crank/no start. They tested the fuel pump module, and they said that the "fuel pump shorted". So, theoretically, could the fuel pump have been causing my problems all along? The bill says they replaced the fuel pump and filter, performed a full inspection, and had my car towed 2 times. If the pump "shorted" out, isn't that dangerous, especially with it being in the tank??? I guess I don't see how the fuel pump is actually working. Thanks for all your help guys. I hope this is the last problem I have with my car...although I seriously doubt it.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by cubanreuben

If the pump "shorted" out, isn't that dangerous, especially with it being in the tank??? I guess I don't see how the fuel pump is actually working. Thanks for all your help guys. I hope this is the last problem I have with my car...although I seriously doubt it.

Just cross your fingers because it may not be your last problem. All cars are susceptible to problems not just an Alero. Keep the preventive maintenance up to snuff.

Answer to your question is no. That is how the fuel pump assembly is designed. It is submerged in fuel and the electrical design is safe and prevents any shorting from causing an explosion. See Alero fuel pump pod with level sending unit below:

[cubanreuben]

Originally Posted by bnaylor

Just cross your fingers because it may not be your last problem. All cars are susceptible to problems not just an Alero. Keep the preventive maintenance up to snuff.

Answer to your question is no. That is how the fuel pump assembly is designed. It is submerged in fuel and the electrical design is safe and prevents any shorting from causing an explosion. See Alero fuel pump pod with level sending unit below:

Thanks so much for your reply... I guess I've been so frustrated with my car that I just assumed that the engineers were complete idiots . I see how that all works now.

As far as preventative maintenance, I clean my air filter every 3000 miles (I have a K & N air filter), and I run Penzzoil Platinum 5W-30 Full Synthetic Oil, and change my oil when my Change Oil light comes on or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. I also follow the manual for all maintenance. Is there anything that anyone out there would recommend doing for my car? (I also have it inspected at least once a year, because I usually have it in the shop at least once a year!)