Stroker fudged up !!!

[SySt3mR00t]

Ok I havent been on here in forever, well ... here is just some of my mods on my car if you guys dont remember

Performance Modifications:
Wiseco Stroker Pistons
Eagle Rods With ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Head Studs
Cometic Head Gasket
Ferrea Valvetrain
20 Bored 4g63 Block
Shaved Head
4g64 Stroker Crankshaft
Archer Racing 2 1/2" Downpipe
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
B&M Short Shifter
Battery Relocated To Trunk (Needed Space For Ignition)
Dual Battery Selenoid
Buschur Racing 2 1/2" Test Pipe
EVO III 16g Ported and Clipped Turbo
Buschur Racing Ported Exhaust Manifold
Buschur Racing Ported O2 Sensor Housing
XTD Stage 3 Clutch
XTD Lightweight Flywheel
Unorthodox Lightweight Underdrive Pulley
DSMLink Programmable ECU
6bolt Throttle Body
6bolt CAS
Balance Shaft Elimination kit
Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
GReddy Power Extreme Exhaust (with custom 4" square tip)
GReddy Upper IC Pipe
GReddy Front Mount Intercooler
GReddy Type-S Blow Off Valve
Magnecor Competition Ignition Cables
MSD DIS-2 Digital Ignition
NGK BPR7ES Spark Plugs (One Range Colder)
Open End Air Filter
Quaife Limited Slip Diff
RC Engineering 550cc Fuel Injectors
Road///Race Denso Fuel Pump
Web Cams 546/547 Race Cams (272° intake/256° exhaust)
Joe P Manual Boost Controller
Brembo Drilled Rotors
Hawk Brake Pads

Suspension Modifications:
17" Enkei Shogun wheels wrapped in Dunlop SP8000 (215/45/Z17)
Eibach Pro-Kit Performance Springs
Koni Yellow Shocks/Struts
Freedom Design Front Strutbar
Pilot Motorsports Rear Lower Strutbar

Appearance Modifications:
'97+ Headlights (w/clear turn signals) (not installed)
'97+ Factory Front Fascia
Altezza Tail Lights
Black 'Powered By Mitsubishi' Shoulder Pads
Clear Corner (Bumper) Lights
Custom White Face Gauges with Green 'LIL4CYL' on Tach
Carbon Fiber Gauge Trim
Carbon Fiber/Aluminum Mesh Pedal Covers
Carbon Fiber/Chrome Shift Knob
Carbon Fiber Mitsubishi Emblem on Fascia
Euro Style License Plate
Foglight w/Parking Lights Over-Ride
Lime Green/Red Vinyl Graphics
- (Designed and Applied by Jeff Rowland Designs) -
Misc. Painted Parts in Engine Bay & Passenger Compartment
Pilot OEM Style Foglights
Projector Style Headlights
Red Silicone Hoses in Engine Bay
Silver Expanded Steel in Grille and Air Vents
Window Tint (65%)
Audio Details:
Head: Eclipse 5303R CD Reciever
Kick Panel: Polk 5-1/4" component set
Door/A-Pillar: Polk 6-1/2" component set
Sub: Two 10" MBQuart
Sub Amplifier: PPI PC275
Front Amplifier: PPI PC250
Battery 1: Optima Yellow Top Battery 2: Optima Red Top
Viper PC500 Alarm

...well anyway my car was running perfectly fine THEN !! i jumped timing and bent all my valves ... so i went out and purchased all new titanium valvetrain. I took the new valves and guides to the machine shop with my old head. Supposedly when I ordered my valves and guides they were both supposed to be OEM FIT ... not oversized. When the machine shop started putting in the new guides, they called and told me they where oversized and they were gunna need to hone the head to put the guides in. They did not inform me if the valves were oversized or not. So i was excited when i got my new head. put that sh*t back on my car went to start it .. IT WOULDNT START! I first throught it was timing because it was turning over very slowly. Ripped the timing belt off and i ended up rechecking timing 3 times with gun and just by marks. Timing is perfect, still same thing. I didnt think anything should be different since my last DSMLINK tune since its still 7bolt head .. THATS ALL IM CHANGING. well ... when i increased the ignition timing A WHOLE SH*T LOAD the car finally started but if u didnt keep revving it .. it would stall out. I finally tried taking it out on the road, but it seemed to REV FOREVER !!! It would take me at least 5min to get up to 60mph. I did a compression test and read 175 in each cyllinder. I am wondering why this is happening. Can someone please help me? The machine shop took 3months on my head instead of the 2 weeks they promised me. Do you think that it could be because of the oversized guides and oem valves. Someone Please Help. IM LOST!

[gthompson97]

Sounds like your timing belt is one tooth off.

[SySt3mR00t]

my timing is perfect ... i even tried offsetting it one tooth forward and backward to see if it would help the problem.

...the car still revs really slowly ... it does look like a timing problem ... but it cant be .. i triple checked it.

[gthompson97]

I don't know what to tell ya man. You checked ALL of the timing marks? Not just the cam gears right?

[Thor06]

Maybe it has something to do with the fact you advanced the timing a shit load. Either that or you have a timing belt off, believe me, those bastards are hard to get right.

[NOFX0617]

Did the shop mess with your cams? maybe they installed them incorrectly...

[SySt3mR00t]

ye i checked the timing way too many times and redid way too many times... i checked the cam gears to align and the lower crank .. everything is perfect. But yes the shop had to reinstall my cams... could they have installed them incorrectly? I dont see how they would have done this .. i thought the intake cam can only go to the intake .. and the exhaust can only go to the exhaust? Is there anything else they could have messed up on the cams ? These cams are not stock they are 272/256, but worked perfectly fine on my old head and valvetrain. Thank You guys all Alot

[gthompson97]

So what did the shop actually do? Did you go from a 7-bolt head to a 6-bolt head or what's the deal?

[crunchymilk55]

they fuck with your fuel / spark?

it does sound like a timing issue, but you seem to have that ironed all out. Can you log with dsmlink? If so, you know where to go...

[SySt3mR00t]

No i kept the 7bolt head ... just with new valves and guides ... they bored and rebuilt JUST my head for me .. then i put it back on ... i havent fucked with fuel or spark .. other than raising all my ignition timing to get the car started ... what about DSMLINK >?< what should i log and look at

[crunchymilk55]

log everything, post it on the dsmlink forums, you may need to to have the previous owner email the dsmlink people to get you access

I would run a boost leak test, perhaps something didn't seat properly.

Is your turbo spooling?

also a dead or misinstalled knock sensor will give a constand voltage which will rob you of any power

[SySt3mR00t]

well ... my turbo will spool .. but it takes FOREVER ... because my car revs up real slow and seems like it is CONSTANTLY BOGGING .. it does feel like its out of time . .but i know it isnt

i have not done a boost leak test yet... but the guage seems to read fine when the car is in the right rpm zones ... cant really tell at idle .. becuase the car idles at about 300rpm right now

I do not have access to dsmlink forums ... because i when i purchased my car with the stock 2.0 motor it was still in there

[Thor06]

Did you turn the timing back down? I know when I first got the head back on, it took just a bit of cranking to get the fuel pressure back up to par. I would put everything back exactly (settings wise) like it was before you took er down and give it a try.

[crunchymilk55]

well a 300rpm idle could indicate one hell of a boost leak... are you blowing black smoke while going WOT? Are your injectors all sealed well into the head? There is so much that can go wrong with a head swap it is very difficult to judge over the net.

Email Tom and Dave, I don't think they would have any problem allowing you onto the forums.

[SySt3mR00t]

i will make sure to try to get access to dsmlink ... when i get back home from college this weekend i will try a boost leak test....

also will a bad fuel pressure regulator make my car rev up real slow like this... like the cam gears wont even spin as fast as they should?

p.s. can anyone send me links to good ways to perform boost leak tests