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| Engineering/ Technical Ask technical questions about cars. Do you know how a car engine works? |
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#1
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Need help increasing displacement!!!!
I have a 98 GSR B18c1. Any chance I could bore it out minimally w/o having to buy new rods/pistons?
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Mods: AEM intake, DC Sports 4-1 header, Tanabe exhaust w/ 2.5" custom piping, ITR exhaust cam, APEXi VAFC, AEM FPR, Warlboro 255l fp, RC 440 injectors, ACT stage 3 clutch, JR Supercharger, Weapon R coilovers, VIS CF vader hood, CF Angel Eye Projector headlights, Black housing corners w/ amber bulbs, "Hybrid" rear emblem, custom rear speaker panels. |
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#2
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You can bore it out and get new pistons without getting new rods. You can't increase the bore without getting new pistons, unless you keep the change less than about 50 microns (0.05 mm). That's probably about the same as re-honing the bore (won't make a noticable difference in displacement). The pistons have to fit pretty snugly in the liners so that they don't flop all over the place when the engine is running.
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Come on fhqwhgads. I see you jockin' me. Tryin' to play like... you know me... |
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#3
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two ways to increase displacement is to bore or stroke the engine. both ways would require getting new pistons. i would rather bore an engine so i can keep the same rod to stroke ratio.
if you want to up the displacement to 1.9 liters...JE makes 84mm pistons for the CRV. if you want 2.0 liters..get the 85mm pistons. either way..you would have to get the engine resleeve so it will accomodate the larger bore pistons.
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I love them sub wufers |
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#4
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Thanks for all of your advice. What about a ballpark figure on how much the boring "should" cost??? IF I decided to get the work done, any other cons besides an louder more awkward engine idle?
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Mods: AEM intake, DC Sports 4-1 header, Tanabe exhaust w/ 2.5" custom piping, ITR exhaust cam, APEXi VAFC, AEM FPR, Warlboro 255l fp, RC 440 injectors, ACT stage 3 clutch, JR Supercharger, Weapon R coilovers, VIS CF vader hood, CF Angel Eye Projector headlights, Black housing corners w/ amber bulbs, "Hybrid" rear emblem, custom rear speaker panels. |
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#5
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think about this before you do anything else. are you going to go all motor or are you planning anytime in the near future to go FI? if you do in the near future want to go FI for that crazy power, my advice is to get a stroker kit. why, because you want to keep your cylinder walls as thick as possible. and i believe the kits are around 1500-2000k. i could be wrong so do some searching.
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94 SI, B18B1, port n polished head, SRP 9.2 slugs, Eagle Rods, Total Seal rings, ARP bolts, Nuformz blockguard, MSD ignition, apexi V-AFC(hack), PYR chip(8500 redline), 450cc injectors, bbk f/p, custom T3 kit w/MP equal length manifold, huge intercooler, restrictive 2 1/2' exhaust next mod: Hondata+GM MAP |
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#6
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I'll see what I can find. I'm just examining the options right now.
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Mods: AEM intake, DC Sports 4-1 header, Tanabe exhaust w/ 2.5" custom piping, ITR exhaust cam, APEXi VAFC, AEM FPR, Warlboro 255l fp, RC 440 injectors, ACT stage 3 clutch, JR Supercharger, Weapon R coilovers, VIS CF vader hood, CF Angel Eye Projector headlights, Black housing corners w/ amber bulbs, "Hybrid" rear emblem, custom rear speaker panels. |
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#7
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Quote:
except i wouldn't go with stroking. increasing the stroke is a great way to kill the rod to stroke ratio. remember you want to rev as high as possible becuase thats how honda's 4 cylinder engines make power. well yea you can stroke it, but what about everyday driving? eventually the rods will snap because of the stress it has to take when the rods are being pushed upwards. just go force induction and call it done
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I love them sub wufers |
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