OEM GM Brake Pads

[spackelman]

I am approaching 90,000 mi on my truck - still the original pads. I am starting to feel the need for pads and maybe rotors.

My question is if I buy the pads at the stealership, will I be getting the same OEM pads that were originally installed on my truck (bought new in Jan 2002). I have had zero problems with the brakes till this date.

I don't mind the xtra $$ - if I will get another 90,000 out of the new pads.

Thanks for any help.

[silverado122775]

you have a 2500HD. So unless you are hauling or towing frequently.. You will not need new pads. Have them checked before you fork out the money for new pads

[spackelman]

Originally Posted by silverado122775

you have a 2500HD. So unless you are hauling or towing frequently.. You will not need new pads. Have them checked before you fork out the money for new pads

I will

No towing, just hauling.

My old dodge went thru brake pads every 30,000. Even at 90,000 you don't think I need them yet?

[alblogg]

I don't know about brake pads because I never saw it done but I did see tis with my own eyes at a Pontiac dealer here in my home town (which is no longer in business). An alternator went out on a brand new car did not have 20K miles on it they did not have one in stock and Atlanta where they get parts because it was a new type or something did not have one and did not know when they would get one. So they send the parts guy to Advance Auto to buy a rebuilt alternator to put on it not a new one but a rebuilt one takes it out of the advance box and puts it in an AC Delco box and gives it to the mechanic to put on. So you don't know what you are getting at the dealer.

[GMMerlin]

Originally Posted by alblogg

I don't know about brake pads because I never saw it done but I did see tis with my own eyes at a Pontiac dealer here in my home town (which is no longer in business). An alternator went out on a brand new car did not have 20K miles on it they did not have one in stock and Atlanta where they get parts because it was a new type or something did not have one and did not know when they would get one. So they send the parts guy to Advance Auto to buy a rebuilt alternator to put on it not a new one but a rebuilt one takes it out of the advance box and puts it in an AC Delco box and gives it to the mechanic to put on. So you don't know what you are getting at the dealer.

And you wonder why they went out of business.
That is called fraud.

[spackelman]

Originally Posted by GMMerlin

And you wonder why they went out of business.
That is called fraud.

Thats why I'm asking the question - I have never, repeat , never got this type of mileage out of pads for any vehicle I have owned. If this is pure GM quality - I am happy to pay. BTW, my truck has been very good to me also.

Speak about fraud, I know guys that have worked a well known oil change business - guess what - your oil never gets changed - just the filter.

[alblogg]

My '88 Chevy 4X4 has 137K showing on the odometer it has not worked for five years, I am on my second set of front pads never done nothing to the rear and still have good lining on them but I am going to have to swap them pretty soon because I have a axle seal leaking. I attribute most of the life of the brakes to I am the only one that drives the truck and most of the miles is Interstate driving not city.

[TEXAS-HOTROD]

Do you have the fancy aluminum wheels? I can see my pads just by looking through the holes in the wheels, when it had its original wheels.

I have an 01 HD crew cab/short box w/the 6.0, and it too is a great truck. The HD chassis is really beefy, and has the best braking system I have ever dealt with. Some of the 1/2 ton Chevy trucks had the crappiest brakes known to exist, until they were updated w/rear discs.
Mine has 55K miles on the clock, and the pads still look like new. I would guess they are down maybe 20%. I seldom pull a trailer, frequently haul a load, and always haul ass. One thing I am careful with is how I use the brake pedal.

You won't need new rotors unless something happens and a pad goes metal-to-metal. The only time I use Delco pads, is when I can't get Bendix or Wagner.
I prefer Bendix ceramic pads, they seem to have better performance during the "wear-in" period. Also, have the rotors cut by someone who knows what they are doing. I have seen bad results from idiots at the machine, only minimal material should be removed and it should almost have a shine to the finish. No gouges or funny scallops in the surface. I agree also that going to the dealer doesn't mean you'll get quality results.

As for the older Chevy's rear shoes? I've seen them go past 200K miles. Usually a fluid leak of some sort wipes them out before they actually wear out. The originals are of a hard compound, and awkward to replace.

By the way. How does the 8.1 run?
That is one I have not yet experienced.

[spackelman]

I love the 8.1 all the way to the filling station - 10 mpg

[GMMerlin]

Originally Posted by TEXAS-HOTROD

Also, have the rotors cut by someone who knows what they are doing. I have seen bad results from idiots at the machine, only minimal material should be removed and it should almost have a shine to the finish. No gouges or funny scallops in the surface. I agree also that going to the dealer doesn't mean you'll get quality results.

Rotors and drums should never be resurfaced during routine brake replacement unless there is a concern with runout, thickness variation (pulsation) or excessive scoring.
Resurfacing the rotors and drums reduces the brake effectiveness because of reduced contact area between the pad/shoe and metal until the metal becomes worn smooth.
Also refinishing should be done with a non-directional finish.

[silverado122775]

Originally Posted by spackelman

I will

No towing, just hauling.

My old dodge went thru brake pads every 30,000. Even at 90,000 you don't think I need them yet?

The 2500HD have very thick pads compared to the 1500's and if you do not haul and tow a lot.. they will last you well over 100K miles.
You said you do hauling, so that will put more wear and tear on the pads.. at 90K, I would at least get them checked out, just to be safe.

[alblogg]

Originally Posted by TEXAS-HOTROD

Do you have the fancy aluminum wheels? I can see my pads just by looking through the holes in the wheels, when it had its original wheels.

I have an 01 HD crew cab/short box w/the 6.0, and it too is a great truck. The HD chassis is really beefy, and has the best braking system I have ever dealt with. Some of the 1/2 ton Chevy trucks had the crappiest brakes known to exist, until they were updated w/rear discs.
Mine has 55K miles on the clock, and the pads still look like new. I would guess they are down maybe 20%. I seldom pull a trailer, frequently haul a load, and always haul ass. One thing I am careful with is how I use the brake pedal.

You won't need new rotors unless something happens and a pad goes metal-to-metal. The only time I use Delco pads, is when I can't get Bendix or Wagner.
I prefer Bendix ceramic pads, they seem to have better performance during the "wear-in" period. Also, have the rotors cut by someone who knows what they are doing. I have seen bad results from idiots at the machine, only minimal material should be removed and it should almost have a shine to the finish. No gouges or funny scallops in the surface. I agree also that going to the dealer doesn't mean you'll get quality results.

As for the older Chevy's rear shoes? I've seen them go past 200K miles. Usually a fluid leak of some sort wipes them out before they actually wear out. The originals are of a hard compound, and awkward to replace.

By the way. How does the 8.1 run?
That is one I have not yet experienced.

my truck: http://themagicm.homelinux.org/phpga...67/category/25

Factory aluminums that came on '88s.

[TEXAS-HOTROD]

You'd be surprised how warped a rotor is that didn't have any signs of brake shake. Also a rotor wears uneven. The outer diameter's surface speed is faster than the inside area. So, that means that the rotor will wear more to the outside.

I have seen low performance issues w/new inferrior pads, but I strictly use Wagner/Bendix pads for my customers. Bendix premium pads have a special coating to eleminate the reduced effectiveness. The only issues that I have witnessed is when the customer provides their own pads. Even though the new brake performance was slightly less that what I would consider average, it wasn't such a big issue that people make it out to be. So I am lead to believe that my machine and my methods are better than average (and having better than average results).

I have had to repair countless people's mistakes over the years. Braking issues are the most frequent. I've heard it a thousand times, "My brother" or "My uncle (the best one is "My husband is a mechanic and he") worked on the car and now it shakes when I stop". Typically, pads were installed and the rotors weren't cut.

Instead of wasting time (and customer's money) checking run-out on rotors, I prefer using that time by actually producing work. A quick check w/a caliper gives a quick indication if a thickness is within spec. I will continue to cut rotors whenever I replace a set of pads, no matter what anyone else has to say.

[GMMerlin]

Originally Posted by TEXAS-HOTROD

You'd be surprised how warped a rotor is that didn't have any signs of brake shake. Also a rotor wears uneven. The outer diameter's surface speed is faster than the inside area. So, that means that the rotor will wear more to the outside.

I have seen low performance issues w/new inferrior pads, but I strictly use Wagner/Bendix pads for my customers. Bendix premium pads have a special coating to eleminate the reduced effectiveness. The only issues that I have witnessed is when the customer provides their own pads. Even though the new brake performance was slightly less that what I would consider average, it wasn't such a big issue that people make it out to be. So I am lead to believe that my machine and my methods are better than average (and having better than average results).

I have had to repair countless people's mistakes over the years. Braking issues are the most frequent. I've heard it a thousand times, "My brother" or "My uncle (the best one is "My husband is a mechanic and he") worked on the car and now it shakes when I stop". Typically, pads were installed and the rotors weren't cut.

Instead of wasting time (and customer's money) checking run-out on rotors, I prefer using that time by actually producing work. A quick check w/a caliper gives a quick indication if a thickness is within spec. I will continue to cut rotors whenever I replace a set of pads, no matter what anyone else has to say.

Well you and I may disagree on turning rotors.
Turning a rotor leaves peaks and valleys and reduces the contact surface area between the metal and the friction material.
Performing proper measurements prior to performing a brake service on a customers vehicle saves the customer money.
If the rotors are smooth and do not have the following concerns
Thickness variation in excess of the maximum allowable specification
Excessive corrosion/rust and/or pitting
Cracks and/or heat spots
Excessive blueing discoloration
Scoring of the disc brake rotor surface in excess of the maximum allowable specification
Brake rotor assembled lateral runout (LRO) that exceeds the maximum allowable specification.
They do not need to be resurfaced.
If you resurface the rotors, you remove metal and reduce the service life of the rotor, which means the customer will have to purchase new rotors sooner.
Plus you are less productive and costing the customer money because you are doing unnessary repairs (turning rotors) to the customers vehicle.
Also,burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.
This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.
Also how do you tighten the customers lug nuts?
Improper wheel tightening after tire rotation, spare tire usage, brake inspection, etc. can be the cause of pulsation. Again, it usually takes 4,800 - 16,000 km (3,000 - 10,000 mi) AFTER an event for the condition to surface. The proper usage of torque wrenches and/or torque sticks (torque limiting sockets) will greatly reduce or eliminate the pulsation conditions after wheel service events. The improper use of impact wrenches on wheel nuts greatly increases the likelihood of pulsation after wheel service.

[TEXAS-HOTROD]

Ooooooohhhhhhhhhh, Mr.Goodwrench.
I thought you sounded familiar. You do sound like the guys at the dealership.

I didn't mean to step on any toes (or smash someone's finger) by stating the you don't always get quality service by going to the dealer. You won't always get quality results by going to an independant either. It's like looking for a good attourney too, kind of hit-and-miss.

How long have you been a factory tech?