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#1
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I have baught a few pairs of rotors for my 97 taurus. I drive normally (sometimes needing to break hard form other jerks on the road
). I have had them turned (which makes them more easily warped). I hear that since this is a chronic thing for my car that I should have the calipers checked out. I really don't want to take it to a mechanic for an inspection. I hear that I might want to get new brake pads? I got ceramic pads about 30,000 miles ago. They still have plenty left on them. I am thinking about getting these brembo sport slotted rotors or drilled (but i hear the drilled ar not as good) that are supposed to be great under a lot of heat. Should I invest a lot in great rotors? Or will that not really fix the problem? I REALLY appriciate your help!
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#2
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Re: Continuous Warping Rotors!!!!
Brake rotors warp because the temper in one area of the rotor is different then the rest of the rotor. When subjected to thermal stress (or mechanical stress from unevenly or over-tightened lug nuts) the rotor warps. Turning or truing the rotor will alleviate warps that exist when the rotor is cold, but will not solve the problem when hot, the uneven temper still exists within the substrate. The only permanent solution is to replace the rotor. The manufacturing cost of brake rotors is mainly related to the length of the cool down time during the casting process. Cheap rotors are removed from the sand molds too soon and generally develop uneven temper. Expensive rotors are left overnight to cool in the molds, allowing them to temper very evenly. This extra time in the molds eats up the foundry's production capacity, so the parts are more expensive.
How do you know if you're getting good rotors? That's a tough one. Several aftermarket rotors are available for the SHO, the SHO Shop and Donelson Motorsports come to mind, these guys have better quality rotors that are available cross-drilled or not, Donelson claims that theirs are preheated. Preheating, performed properly, will anneal-out the uneven temper in the casting. For Pete's sake, don't let the garage jockeys set your lug nut torque with an air wrench! Request that they hand torque, watch them like a hawk, if they comply, hand the technician a $5 tip, he's done you a nice favor. If they balk at your request or look at you like you've got an arm growing out of your ear, take the car somewhere else. The preferred hand method is called stage torquing; first to 60 or 70 ft-lbs, then to the final torque of 90 to 100 ft-lbs. According to Ford, those new-fangled torque sticks (ACCUTORQ tool, 100 ft-lb) are OK as well per TSB 95-6-4.
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![]() His, 96 Limited, 5.2 Magnum, Magnaflow CatBack System, HID Head & Fog Lamps, 242 T-case swapped , Rear Trac-Loc. Chrome grill added to match the wheels. ![]() Hers, 96 Limited I6, 242 T-case, HID Head & Fog Lamps. |
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#3
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Re: Continuous Warping Rotors!!!!
Thanks. I have replaced the rotors myself. When I tighten the nuts, I use a T or X shaped wrench used for tires. I tighten them as much as I can and go around about 2 times so that they are applyig equal pressure. Am I doing that wrong?
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#4
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Great info about the lug nuts. Looks like I'll be buying a torque wrench
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#5
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Re: Continuous Warping Rotors!!!!
This is right out of a factory 97 Taurus manual.
Lug Nut Torque Requirement Note: Do not use power tools. Use a torque wrench. All lug nuts (1012) must be tightened to 115-142 N-m (85-104 lb-ft). I feel that doing it by hand without a torque wrench is even worse then using power tools to get even torque. Some people tighten the lugs like crazy in fear of the wheel falling off down the road. Quote:
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![]() His, 96 Limited, 5.2 Magnum, Magnaflow CatBack System, HID Head & Fog Lamps, 242 T-case swapped , Rear Trac-Loc. Chrome grill added to match the wheels. ![]() Hers, 96 Limited I6, 242 T-case, HID Head & Fog Lamps. |
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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Re: Continuous Warping Rotors!!!!
Also, you want to tighten the lugnuts in a "star" pattern, essentially skipping every other lugnut and making two revolutions to get all 5 lugnuts (I'm not sure that makes much sense typed out). A torque wrench is a must, as well as making sure the mating surfaces of the hub and rotor are clean, as well as the surfaces between the rotor and wheel.
Rust will form in the vents of the rotors, and when the wheel is not holding the rotor tight to the hub, pieces of that rust (or other debris) can lodge between the hub and rotor and cause severe vibration and warping, the serverity which will be determined by the size of the debris. If you have allow wheels, you will want to recheck the torque after 50 miles or so from the time you put the wheels on. -Rod |
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#8
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Re: Continuous Warping Rotors!!!!
I feel like an idiot! I have a manual and never thought to look. I don't have a torque wrench and I guess I was too cheap to get one. I guess that I will have to learn from my stouborness and get one. Should I still get brembo slotted rotors or still try regular oem replacment rotors?
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#9
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Re: Continuous Warping Rotors!!!!
It was under wheels and tires on my 97 cd.
Quote:
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![]() His, 96 Limited, 5.2 Magnum, Magnaflow CatBack System, HID Head & Fog Lamps, 242 T-case swapped , Rear Trac-Loc. Chrome grill added to match the wheels. ![]() Hers, 96 Limited I6, 242 T-case, HID Head & Fog Lamps. |
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#10
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Re: Continuous Warping Rotors!!!!
There is no way to make a good call when it comes to rotors, it's hit or miss. Ebay has good deals on torque wrenches.
Quote:
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![]() His, 96 Limited, 5.2 Magnum, Magnaflow CatBack System, HID Head & Fog Lamps, 242 T-case swapped , Rear Trac-Loc. Chrome grill added to match the wheels. ![]() Hers, 96 Limited I6, 242 T-case, HID Head & Fog Lamps. |
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#11
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Re: Continuous Warping Rotors!!!!
Even the Cheap 1/2 Drive Torque wrenches at a place like Walmart are good enough for this job. I bought an 18 dollar one and took it to a calibration lab I used to work for and we checked it out. At 104lbs it was only off 1lb.
There has been thousands of conversations concerning the rotors for these cars at another forum (not to be mentioned here) and a lot of people have had good experience with the 1 year warranty rotors at AZ. They are 21.00 for the 97 and up SHO and 2001 and up Taurus/Sable that have the bigger brakes and even cheaper for pre 96 SHO and 2000 and earlier Taurus/Sable I used them last time and I have 50K on them now and they worked out pretty well. I am getting ready to do them again as my pads are about gone. Mike
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#12
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Re: Continuous Warping Rotors!!!!
I buy the cheap rotors, never had any issues with them... places like
az or aap.. used to be able to buy online and save, unless free ship is offered, not worth it on standard parts.. |
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#13
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Quote:
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Will go there next time we need rotors.
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#14
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Re: Continuous Warping Rotors!!!!
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I have 5 vehicles and it seems the wheels are always off one of them, so I made a place to hang the cheap and I also bought an extension and the correct sockets to fit my different vehicles. That way I don't have to open up my tool box when I am just rotating tires and stuff. I also didnt know Craftsman ones were that cheap but if they are I would have done that instead. Mike
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#15
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The beam style costs between 21.00 and 29.00. The one for 29.00 lokks VERY nice. I will probably pick one up today or tomorrow and start getting in a habit of using it for my lug nuts
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