'96 3.8L water pump

[busboy4]

Hi
‘96, 3.8L, 143K.

I developed a very large coolant leak. With the right front tire off, and jackstands under the frame I was able to observe the right side (front) of the engine through the wheel well while it was running, and see a steady stream of coolant leaking from the water pump shaft area. Previously I had experienced an occasional yet significant loss of coolant, which I now suspect was the shaft seal. I had the coolant drained for a couple of days for a lower intake manifold gasket repair, and I suspect the seal dried, shrank and failed completely.

I found this repair to be difficult yet not the nightmare it seemed from reading the Ford Manual and other posts. As to the manual: this was the first time that the Ford OEM manual seemed inaccurate. It detailed steps in the process that were unnecessary - disconnect the power steering pressure line; and used faulty references - remove the serpentine belt tensioner from the power steering pump support - it is not located there.

I did completely remove the belt, alternator and belt idler pulley as well as the water pump pulley. I also removed the two very long bolts through the power steering pump housing which gave it a bit of play although I don’t really think it necessary. Then I removed the right side front and rear engine mount bolts from below the frame. I was then able to position a 2" diameter by 14"wooden dowel I had along the upper lip of the oil pan where it meets the block. Pushing the dowel up with my floor jack easily raised the front (right side) of the engine a couple of inches. Once it was up, I placed a 2X4 on edge between the front engine mount and the frame and lowered the jack so the 2X4 was taking weight of the engine.

I was able to loosen a support for the upper aluminum heater outlet tube which gave it enough play to be removed after its retaining bolt was out. The lower tube is held by one bolt just aft of the AC pulley. I did not pull out the lower water inlet tube until the pump was out. Using the new pump as a guide, I methodically started pulling the 10 nuts and bolts that hold it in place, and laid them out in order as the bolts have some variance in length. The pump lifted out fairly easily and the OEM gasket left very little residue to have to clean. I installed the two new o-rings into the pump inlet and outlet, and transferred the lower heater tube while it was out. Per the manual I applied RTV to both sides of the gasket and put it in place on the front cover. The pump then went in easily and I replaced the fasteners in their original positions. They showed signs of thread sealant so I used Ford TA-24 sealant on the bolts, and studs. The book called for 71-106 In-Lb’s for the bolts and 17-22 Ft.-Lb’s for the nuts. As the book also said to alternate fasteners to get an even adhesion I thought the difference in torque a bit strange. Also, as the bolts had been quite tight originally, I found the 100 In-Lb range a bit too loose feeling. So I went with the “feel” method and tightened them all moderately. So far no problems or leakage.
The rest of the re-assembly went pretty well just putting things in their place.

The worst part of the job was the lower radiator hose and clamps. Not enough space down there for such a rigid hose and high-tension clamps.

Overall not a terrible job. Certainly not as bad as I thought. Oh, I bought a reman pump at Napa for $68.