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#1
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Tail Light painting problems
Hey guys,
First time posting here although i have been a member for a while, I have just been enjoying all the excellent models on here. Im in the middle of building a Revell (Germany) Ferrari F50 (First model I have built in many years) and I am having problems painting the tailights. I have Clear REd paint but when i put it on the tailights it basically looks crap and as if there is no paint on the part at all, I have tried painting both inside and outside the clear part and yet is still looks like there is no paint getting on there. The best way i can describe it is, it looks like the end of a jar of strawberry jam, where u just have juices left, its that sort of consistency as the jam. Now I know you will all tell me to thin the paint, which is fair enough but I dont believe it will be dark enough on the part to look right. For anyone answering can you bare in mind i cant get hold of Tamiya paints in Ireland, my only choices seem to be Revell or Humbrol. So can anyone either tell me how to paint tail lights or point me in the direction of a tutorial Thanks a million Dublinguy PS I searched the boards for this already and couldnt find anything worthwhile |
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#2
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I use Testors Stop Light Red Metallic. I'm sure that its not that different than any of the other clear reds. Its a very thick paint, but I believe thicker is better for this application. I take the tail light and go around the edge with a black permanent marker for my first step. This adds a little realism (doesn't look good on all models though). Then you apply the clear red. I brush on a thin layer all over the back of the light. Be sure to leave certain areas clear, such as reverse lights, etc. You probably know that though. Hold it up to a light and make sure its evenly coated. Let it dry and do the other one the same way. (Also, never paint the front of the light. It looks way too unrealistic.) Now take your clear red and really lay it on. I take a big glop of clear red and place it right in the middle. Use your brush and spread it out to the edges and all (don't go over them though!). Hold the piece up to the light. You should see a little bit of light pass through, not too much. Go back and apply more paint to areas that are lighter until you are satisfied. Make them so they have uniform and level coats of paint. Don't be too conservative with the paint. It's all going to be behind the lens anyway. Hope this helps. :bandit:
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#3
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Thanks jay yeah that helps a lot...Only problem is I did paint the outside of the tailight..in the immortal words of Homer D'OH!!!! anyway i can deal with that. At least now i know not to b a tight arse with clear paint colours to really lash it on after an initial coat.
Thanks again |
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#4
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Did you wash the part first? If you didn't the mold release rsedue on the part isn't letting your paint "bite" the surface and stay where you put it. Hopefully you are using a water based paint so you can wash it off and try again, and also it shrinks down better when dry.
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#5
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The problem is you are probably brush painting and it just does not work well. These clear paints must be airbrushed with a good internal mix airbrush to get a uniform coating. Properly applied by airbrush it looks like a tinted part instead of a painted part. Use a fine tip and slowly build up the color.Look at the tailights on this Pug 206 they were done with Tamiya clear red.
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#6
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make sure you stir your paints first..
if you are going to be brushing them on, make sure u do it with thin applications and build up the layers until it's uniform.. i do this using tamiya acrylic clear red and no probs. |
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#7
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I always brush paint mine with Tamiya Clear Red or Orange. If you flow it on in two coats it looks great. And while we're on the subject, TAMIYA, QUIT MOLDING THE TAIL LIGHTS IN RED OR ORANGE!!! LET ME HAVE THE OPTION OF GOING CLEAR OR PAINTING THEM!!! ANYBODY WITH ME???
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#8
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Quote:
Somebody from AMT must have gotten a job there
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#9
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Tamiya was never about tuner cars, unless it proves profitable (converting their race 911 into a "road and club" version
) They're more about ease of assembly and part minimization these days, unfortunately (last time you saw an engine in a street Tamiya car?)
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#10
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#11
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Yeah, they pretty much have been the leader in mold department (they are the only company to fully use CAD). But that still doesn't change the fact that their philosophy right now is what it is.
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#12
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i used 2 have tht same problem
brush paint the lights doing very thin coats, eventually after about 3 coats you'll get the tone your after. remember 2 let the paint dry between coats |
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#13
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Hey guys,
Thanks for all the replies, ill answer each seperately Veyron :- Yes I washed the parts off first, unfortunately its not a water based paint, virtually impossible to get them here in Ireland. 935k3 :- Nice idea about the airbrush but i only have a single action external mix. Will have to stay with the brushing technique. By the way I am still drooling over that Pug, Im not a huge fan of them but my god that one is fantastic djmr2 :- I did stir the paint first as I always do. Im starting to get the impression that I have to build up layers of the clear paint. martinu :- thanks for that I will give it a try. Now my only problem is how to get the paint i already put on off. Im not pushed if I cant as I am using the F50 to try out all these techniques Im reading about. So Im not sure the F50 will even see the light of day on these boards, certainly not against some fo the cars I have seen here. Thanks again, Dublinguy |
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#14
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If you used an enamel paint a turpentine type thinner will remove it without hurting the plastic except maybe a light foggging which could be polished out. Also you probably could polish away the paint. Thanks for the compliments on the Pug 206.
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#15
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