PO171/PO174 Diagnostic Code on a 2001 Windstar

[Sterud]

I have determined that I have PO171/PO174 as diagnostic codes on my 2001 Windstar. I had this determined at a local parts company after noticing that the engine light had come on.
I have now refilled that gas tank with higher grade gas and have even tried replacing the gas cap - neither of these solved the problem and the engine light remains on.
Does anyone have any thoughts on what the problem could be?
I hate to take it to the Ford Dealer who will charge me $80 to run the diagnostics, but if that is what I need to do - then that's what I'll have to do.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.

Steve

[frostie]

Welcome to the club! Do a search on P0171/P0174 or "isolator bolt fix" and you will find answers to your codes. This is a $100 DIY fix for the moderately mechanically inclined, or north of $500 at your Ford dealership.

[phil-l]

Just to save you some searching... This is the procedure you'll want to read:

http://www.leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html

[dandi]

Boy, I think we need a 'sticky' at the top of the forum with regards to these codes! Maybe it's just me but I generally search a forum before posting a question. But that's just me!

The fix is pretty simple, as you'll see. There are plenty of testimonials on the forum as to this fix. I did mine in July and everything is hunky dory.

Dan D
'99 Windstar SE

[phil-l]

dandi -

Yes, I agree we should have a 'sticky' message for this forum to include well known and documented fixes for common problems.

We've discussed this in the past - but no one seems to know who the moderator is for this forum, or how to go about getting such administrative privileges set up.

[wood07bird]

I just had my 2001 windstar diagnosed with po171 following a check engine light. has 120,000 mi. Dealer tells me it needs all the seals, isolator bolts, gaskets, valve cover AND a new manifold for a total sevice of $1425. The only running issue i had was a little surging at traffic lights with brake on.
The dealer says business has been awfully slow, do you think they are trying to make it all up with me?

[bq1985]

I just had my 2001 Windstar in the shop for a cost of $535 and problem still resides. The DPFE, EGR were removed and replaced, the intake manifold was checked for leaks and none found. The shop stated they did everthing per the book and that the CEL was fixed, only to have it come on 2 hrs after I picked it up from the shop. I have been researching this problem and it appears the TSB was performed in the shop....to some degree. I paid $$ with the problem not resolved. The shop stated on the work order to take it to the dealership. If any parts they installed were not found they would credit me. The car continues to have a rough idle & stall at intersections when in drive. To keep the car from dying, it has to be placed in neutral. My wife wants to kill this van. It amazes me that this known problem is so common as it appears on the Windstar. I do not see any value taking it to the dealership at this point, only to be told the same as the independent shop.

[fz1rider]

Originally Posted by wood07bird

I just had my 2001 windstar diagnosed with po171 following a check engine light. has 120,000 mi. Dealer tells me it needs all the seals, isolator bolts, gaskets, valve cover AND a new manifold for a total sevice of $1425.
...do you think they are trying to make it all up with me?

Sure sounds like it. That price is ridiculous.

Buy the parts and follow the instructions on the leckemby site. Even a newbie wrench can pull it off with enough time set aside. And if you run into trouble, just post up your problem and wait for the answer. Doesn't get much easier than that.

[wowtaxi]

Hi, I posted before about 2001 254,000 Windstar mikly powersteering...well had to replace rack & pinon ...it was leaking pretty bad as time went on. But now my other///Ford Windstar 2000. 237,000 miles. Had isolators & upper intake seals replaced by Ford dealer in early 2005. Yep $535.00. 2 mo ago van won't start. Tow to closest mechanic. Does tune up, new battery, Van runs great for two weeks. Then stops dead in middle of road. Won't start. Tow to my mechanic. He says it's the coil. New coil put on. Van runs great for a week. Dies again in the middle of the road. Poor driver. Anyway...mechanic after a week tows van to dealer saying it's the PCM... dealer has van for 3 weeks we put on a new PCM.that took a week alone..van still will not start Ford tech going crazy..calling Ford Hotline....I never knew there was one. Dealer exchanges coil...decides other new coil faulty. Van starts...runs a half hour then will not start again. Hotline tells tech to check the wire looms. Turns out somewhere down the line the splash guard wasn't there...water, road dirt etc splashing around engine for quite awhile I guess. Anyway, some wires in the loom corroded and snapped. Dealer fix the wires....no did'nt need a new loom what a shock. Dealer did point out that I should have the shift cable replaced because its all shreddered and being held together by electrical tape.. someone I guess when the trans was replaced in 2004 must have done that. So after 4weeks & $1,036.72 van is finally up and running great for about a month. Now a clicking noise coming from front of engine. Van still running good. Noise goes after van is warmed up and going about 40 mph. I give driver a bottle of Lucas fuel lube & cleaner. I point out to use 5 oz on fillup. He used whole bottle putting in a few oz every other day. We use a whole tank sometimes two tanks every day of fuel. I didn't say use the whole bottle. Oh well. But driver said noise stopped for three days and now came back. He takes it to mechanic...who fusses with the belts and check oil etc. He think one piston isn't working. Doesn't run a computer diag. why I don't know. They decide to put a heavier oil in. Noise has stopped for the moment. I'm not happy with this. Its not the 50's anymore...putting heavy oil in these computer cars is not good I think. I'm having driver take van for computer diag. I think maybe a good engine flush and a superior oil will help??? Has anyone out there used Amsoil Products??? Would the shifter cable have anything to do with this. Course when the tuneup was done I don't know what kind of spark plugs were used. I guess I could call where it was done and ask. Man, I've put a ton of $ in this van in two months. Now the lifter's or piston decides to go?? I read this forum often but can only squeez time to write late at nite after driving 15 or so hours. So, excuse grammar etc. I really haven't figured out how to start a message or thread so I just fill in reply too. Any insight would be most appreciated.

[wiswind]

If you want to try cleaning the oil parts of the engine, I would use Auto-RX.
http://www.auto-rx.com/
I personally recommend this product for your application, as it sounds like your vehicles get a lot of use.

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!
There are 2 parts to the cleaning process.......the cleaning, which is when you drive with the product in the oil......and the RINSE phase, when you drain the oil and refill with a NON-SYNTHETIC oil and drive for the specified time.

I have used this product....but my engine was already really clean.
I have used it in the engine oil, and in the transmission fluid.

I would far prefer this to one of the "motor flushes" that are solvent based.

The windstar engines are not know to be "sludge monsters".....as the PCV system does a good job of removing the nasty vapors.

I have used Mobil 1 oil and Wix Filters (cheap online from rock auto).
Napa "Gold" and the higher line of CarQuest filters are the Wix high line of filters.

I have more recently been using Redline 5W-20 oil.....which is expensive.....so buy it by the case (about $95 for a case of 12 quarts).

I have read good things about Amsoil, and if you use the correct one for your vehicle, I am sure that you will be happy.
Also, from what I have read, Amsoil's top of the line oil filter is really good...but is pricey at about $14.
It has the Wix workings, with Amsoil's filter media.

I have also used "FP60" as a each fill up additive.....but have found that I still need to run a can of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool once in a while.
The FP60 is a detergent and lubricant package.
http://www.lubecontrol.com/fuel.htm

A higher grade of gasoline may help in the added detergency.....if you use a Top Tier gasoline.
Shell "V-Power" has about 5 times the minimum EPA required detergents.
Their regular and "plus" have something like 2 to 3 times the minimum required.
I prefer to add a quality product.....such as the FP60, Chevron Techron, or Redline Complete Fuel System......in a "Maintenance" dose.

Of course, as others who have the '99 and newer windstars have mentioned, the fuel pump relay, located in the engine compartment "power distribution box" is a known problem.
If I suspected that....I would just replace it....as it sounds like it can be intermittent....and you will spend more money on down time wondering about it, than the new relay would cost.