Just another Cam choice post

[JiffyBeene]

I have a 1995 Formula with an A4 and 4.10's. I have a collection of parts both on order and in my garage waiting to be installed but I need to still decide on a cam and a stall speed. I have a set of pacesetter LT's, 160 thermo, diff. girdle, Trans go shift kit, K&N FIPK, Torque Arm, Pan hard rod, LCA relocation brackets, subframe connectors, straight piped from cat back, ported stock heads and 1.6 full roller rockers. I do drive the car daily in the summer but it's all highway with no stop and go and I don't mind the higher RPM's the 4.10's got me. I just want a cam with a real nice, lumpy sound at idle and a sutible stall that'll go with this combo(I think the last cam I looked at was a CC306 but it may have been a CC502?). I head to the track most weekends and I really want to get this car into the high 12's at our local calgary track(last time out ran 14.7). I also have tuner cat so I can play with some things there as well. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Beene
BTW the car has about 45,000miles on it and has always been meticulesly maintained.

[97cavalier]

The LT4 HotCam is a nice choice.

[ikeyballz]

not to steal this post or anything, but whats the lopiest cam you can/should get on a street car? (hopefully it makes the most power also?)

[JiffyBeene]

I wouldn't call that stealing, that's pretty much the exact question I want answered.

[poormillionaire2]

Uh, I don't know a whole lot about cams but I don't think you want an LSA below 112, or you will lose vacuum in the engine. Obviously, LSA isn't the only thing that determines lope, but its a good indicator.
You'll want to pick the cam before you pick the stall though so you can match the power bands to stall speed.

[jveik]

you can email comp cams or probably any company that makes cams with your specs and they will tell you the best option for what you want.

[TEXAS-HOTROD]

1995 Formula = LT1, which has a rollerized valve train. Roller cams can have huge lift and still retain a smooth idle.
A lumpy idle means excessive valve duration and .500+ valve lift. With the addition of 1.6 rockers, you'll be in excess of .530 valve lift. Do you have the proper valve springs (bee-hive springs?) in your parts stash?
You usually have to sacrafice one thing for to get something else. If you over cam the engine, it will have the idle that you are looking for (in addition to reprogramming) but will probably kill low-end torque. If you go smaller on the cam it will have better response, have better low-end acceleration (better e.t.s) but you'll scarafice the rough idle. It's best to under cam the combo than to over cam the thing.
if you're looking for better e.t.s, there's other simpler mods you can do that might help. Have you played w/fuel pressure? Are you running the MAF screen? Sometimes an adjustable TPS sensor set at maximum allowable voltage can help performance and shifting.
I know a few guys that disconnect the battery (to clear the "learned" memory), reconnect the battery and take the car out on a hard run. They claim that the car performs better. The PCM relearns their driving habits w/a more sggressive self-learned program.

I think Mr.Cavalier gets the gold star. The LT4 cam would be a good choice.

[97cavalier]

finaly someone listens to me,lol

[FormulaLT1]

The Comp cam 305 is another good moderate choice but if you are looking for all out up top power. The larger cams are the way to go but those will take away some from being as street friendly. The GM847 or Comp cam 306 are nice cams to use to make big power but should be used with at least a 2400 - 2600 stall due in part to loss in lower end torque like Texas brought up. .