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#1
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Bushings
Along with the several other things on my 00 Olds Bravada that I need to take care of, one is I need new control arm bushings.
Do you all recomend Delco bushings or aftermarket? Should I replace all my ball-joints while I have it all pulled apart? Delco ball-joints or aftermarket?
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2000 Olds Bravada 4.3w, 215,000 (May 09) 2005 Yamaha Vmax 1200cc, 23,500 (May 09) 2004 GMC Sierra 1/2ton 4.8"V", 70,000 (May 09) 1983 Kawasaki LTD KZ750-K1 750 in-line twin 22,000 (June 09) Although I don't have much automotive knowledge to offer in return for all the help I get from these forums, I am a master electrician, so if anyone needs electrical advice I would consider it my rent here to share. Just PM me. |
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#2
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Re: Bushings
Quote:
I wouldnt do the ball joints unless they need it. As for what brand, theres several threads about ball joints- I started one, with a poll. Moog is highly recommended, and TRW is said to be the same thing as Moog, just under a different name. Cant offer any help on the bushings, though. Never had to do those- but Im sure its just a matter of time. |
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#3
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Re: Bushings
Are we talking the bushings or the end links.
I tried TRW and they didn't fit. I have AC Delco bushings (the ones holding the bar) and TRW poly end links (on each end of the bar).
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1995 Factory Blazer Service Manual for sale, PM if interested. |
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#4
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Re: Bushings
Why A-arm bushings - they always look cracked after a short time. At 175k would guess the ball joints are trash and the hubs too if all originals. Just did a 2001 hubs and TRW ball joints (both cause work is getting to them and cost is $28 each) at 90k so ..... what an improvement - already did the idle arm too.
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#5
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Re: Bushings
Quote:
At least one of my hubs is growling a little. it's kind of a low pitched hum that starts around 40mph and gets louder to 50, then goes away untill about 65 and gets loud again. It changes with turning, but I'm not sure which way and right now I can't drive it because I have half of the crap off the front of the engine awaiting the arrival of the Helm shop manual (over 3000 pages of info on the vehicle) before I try tackling the lower intake gasket. Also I have at least one ball joint that has been popping intermittently for at least a couple of years now, probably more than that. I had a mechanic look at it when it first started and he noticed that the passenger side clamp that holds the sway bar to the frame was severely bent and was pushing back on that side of the sway bar, thus compromising the integrity of one of the passenger side ball-joints. (this was the result of some pretty serious off-roading I did in Colorado when the vehicle only had about 5,000 miles on it - I was getting a little too crazy and actualy slid the vehicle down some rather large rocks) But yes, all the ball-joints, bushings, CV joints, seals, and both hubs are completely original. My 4-wheel drive transfer case motor has failed twice, I replaced my water pump (although I'm becoming more and more convinced that the elusive problem was my lower intake gasket all along), and I had the fuel pump assembly replaced once when the vehicle was under warranty. I just put the third set of tires on at 150,000 miles. Factory tires ran to 70,000 and the Michelan Cross Terrains I put on it lasted from there to 150,000. Just did the front brakes for their second time and I've done the rears once - those were a pain in the ass trying to get the emergency brake adjusted right, which I dont think I ever did - I think it locks up one wheel then the 4-wheel drive tries to engage and does weird shit) That is the extent of the work that's been done to that vehicle in 175,000 miles. So now the vehicle really needs some TLC. It still runs great, engine is smooth and responsive, but it seems it's time to overhaul nearly everything under the front end. People are saying I shouldn't dump that much money into such a high milage car because it isn't worth that much - my response is that it's worth 30 or 40 grand if I have to replace it! And fact is the interior is still in pristine condition, all the electrical works fine, leather seats are still in great condition, paint job and rims still shine (the front end paint is pretty ate up from tailgating people at 90 mph on the Houston freeways for the last several years) and I just love the handling and versatility of the vehicle over-all. Anyway, my point is it's a keeper and well worth my efforts on replacing all of these items which means I'm probably a new regular here
__________________
2000 Olds Bravada 4.3w, 215,000 (May 09) 2005 Yamaha Vmax 1200cc, 23,500 (May 09) 2004 GMC Sierra 1/2ton 4.8"V", 70,000 (May 09) 1983 Kawasaki LTD KZ750-K1 750 in-line twin 22,000 (June 09) Although I don't have much automotive knowledge to offer in return for all the help I get from these forums, I am a master electrician, so if anyone needs electrical advice I would consider it my rent here to share. Just PM me. |
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#6
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Re: Bushings
Quote:
What are end links? I'm ASSUMING those must be the bushings where the sway bar attaches to the control arms?
__________________
2000 Olds Bravada 4.3w, 215,000 (May 09) 2005 Yamaha Vmax 1200cc, 23,500 (May 09) 2004 GMC Sierra 1/2ton 4.8"V", 70,000 (May 09) 1983 Kawasaki LTD KZ750-K1 750 in-line twin 22,000 (June 09) Although I don't have much automotive knowledge to offer in return for all the help I get from these forums, I am a master electrician, so if anyone needs electrical advice I would consider it my rent here to share. Just PM me. |
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#7
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Re: Bushings
Also, do y'all know if the tortion rods are going to be a problem? I am refering to the long rods that go from the control arms, halfway back down the vehicle where they attach to the frame and are used as a substitute for the coil springs that are not there because of the front axels.
When the vehicle is lifted and the wheel travels all the way down, does that relive tention on those rods or will the lower control arm swing around and break my arm or something when I break the ball joints free? Will I need to have a jack under the lower control arm when I do this?
__________________
2000 Olds Bravada 4.3w, 215,000 (May 09) 2005 Yamaha Vmax 1200cc, 23,500 (May 09) 2004 GMC Sierra 1/2ton 4.8"V", 70,000 (May 09) 1983 Kawasaki LTD KZ750-K1 750 in-line twin 22,000 (June 09) Although I don't have much automotive knowledge to offer in return for all the help I get from these forums, I am a master electrician, so if anyone needs electrical advice I would consider it my rent here to share. Just PM me. |
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#8
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Re: Bushings
Quote:
The sway bar bushings are the rubber bar holders holding the sway bar to the frame. I wouldn't start chucking a whole wack of money into this truck, fix what is needed, but don't start swapping out balljoints just "because they might need it". Just because they are oringinal doesn't mean they have to fail.
__________________
1995 Factory Blazer Service Manual for sale, PM if interested. |
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#9
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Re: Bushings
At a 175k, and if they actually are original, I would be looking very closely at the balljoints, and make sure they are in good shape. They are very important, and as many of us know on here, these trucks can go through them quite easily. If you notice any play or movement, get them done.
Control arm bushings can make a huge difference in the ride quaity, and basic handling characteristics of the truck. Even trucks with low milage can be dramitically be improved just by changing the c-arm bushings. Take a close look at these parts before chaning them, and make sure they need changing, but if anything, in your opinion or even your feeling, looks bad, replace it. |
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#10
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Re: Bushings
Are you talking about the sway bar?
__________________
1995 Factory Blazer Service Manual for sale, PM if interested. |
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