? crankshaft position sensor located on a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan

[beachbummm]

Where is the crankshaft position sensor located on a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan with 3.3 litre engine..is it in the block or dose it sit on top...how do I get to it??..Thanks

[RIP]

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801a4096.jsp

[beachbummm]

Well, so far I can refer you to factory service bulletin # 18-16-96, it states ONLY the 1996 caravan will cut out if it passes a military or air traffic control tower ..

The RF signal cuts out the Crankshaft position sensor and will cause the van to die in its tracks...

They say to replace it with part number 4727336AB at a cost of $109.95...Autozone sells them for $30.99. part number Wells SU358..they will need your vin# to get you the right one..

So I will change this if it is not the problem, I will try the iggy switch, then it will be sacrificed to the Gods at GM and I will be trading it in on a pickup..

Thanks for the reply RIP

[RIP]

That's interesting. Not doubting what you've read but, I've driven my 96 GC near military control towers and even stronger RF sources for years and never had a problem. Remeber seeing GCs/GVs as government vehicles parked next to the towers on many occassions. Seems strange they would make an SB for that when there are so many others that should be written. That's Chrysler for you.

Did I miss a thread? What problem are you having?

[automps]

Hello , its on the trans bellhousing toward the firewall side of the truck..

[beachbummm]

It has the standard intermittent starting problem..

One day it will start and run great..for example I took it to Daytona Beach this weekend..I put over 400 miles on it Friday and Sat..ran purrrrfect, got 22 MPG..
Sunday it would not start, had breakfast came back about an hour later and it ran fine all the way home, Monday it started,ran and died a block from work..

Over the last few months we have changed the main computer, alt,plugs,wires,fuel filter,Batt, No error codes have ever come up..check enging light is NOT on...so I thinks its the crank sensor or Iggy switch ..

Im running out of idea so any other input you can share will be helpful
Thanks..

[beachbummm]

OK sensor is in and the van sounds like it is starting easyer (shorter crank time)..

BUT I noticed when I hit the wiring harness coming off the box behind the overflow bottle the fan comes on for a short peroid of time...

What is the box with about 40 wires coming off it..its mounted on the passanger side fender...could this be my problem??

thanks again

[RIP]

If it's the box just forward of the power steering reservoir it's the transmission control module. It does talk to the PCM but, it's not clear exactly how. Don't see a tie to the fans.

I've heard cam and crankshaft sensors can be out of spec just enough to give you problems but not enough to trip a CEL light. Hope the sensor did it for you. If not, nail down if it's fuel or spark or both that's missing. If it's both, you might try looking at the rest of the ASD circuit. Have you got a manual?

[beachbummm]

Thanks RIP..
I dont have a manual, I have driven it about 40 miles since I put the sensor in, so far so good!

Im not sure why the fans came on when I hit the wires, the motor was running but cold..

I did the key on/off test and now I get error code 11(?) & 33 (AC fan relay)..it has been replaced 3 times in the last year...The AC kick on and off a few times then stays off.My code book only goes up to 1994 model year, I guess they are still the same codes.

Also the rear wiper and washer are not working. the buttons on the dash "click" the relay, but nothing happens..Could there be a bad common ground somewhere?

[RIP]

Looking at a 96-98 Haynes book, code 33 is an A/C Clutch Relay Circuit failure. Might explain your A/C symptom. Might want to check power and grounds to and from the relay to the clutch and continuity. Might be an identical relay on the panel you could swap with.

There are two listings for code 11. The first says it's "No crank signal at PCM". The second says "Mis-fire adaptive numerator at limit" and is described as "CKP sensor target windows have too much variation" . CKP might mean crankshaft position. 11 explains your no start problem. These codes should disappear eventually. Once it looks like it's fixed for sure you can reset them buy disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes or with a DRB scanner.

There could be a seperate problem with the rear wiper/washer. Are they getting power? More likely they have a common problem source and unfortunately thats the Body Control Module (BCM). There's lots of info about this on the forum. You could try pulling the IOD (in PDC) fuse for a few minutes or disconnect the battery to reset the BCM.

[beachbummm]

Thanks for all the info...
The van has been starting every time with no problem...BUT my MPG has gone down the toilet..
I see the sensor has a slide adjustment (to set the depth into the block)
I put it all the way in then pulled it back a little so it would not hit the crank.

Any ideas on how to determine the proper spacing of the sensor to get my gas mileage back up?

with the old sensor I went 100 miles before it dropped below full. NOW I went 100 miles on 1/4 tank... Should it be "bottomed out" into the block?

I pulled the fuse to clear the codes, but i still get 11 and 33, I tried changing the AC relay (code 33) and its still not kicking in..

[RIP]

Don't know if this sheds any new light:http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801a4096.jsp Says to push the sensor in until contact is made then torque the bolt. There's paper on the sensor that seems important. I've read where some insist on using OEM sensors and say anything else can cause problems.

The PCM applies a ground for the coil in the A/C clutch relay based on inputs from the on switch and the A/C pressure transducer. Could the A/C be on the verge of not having enough freon? Not sure that would produce a fault code but, might want to check it to elliminate the theory. Then there's the PCM, transducer, relay, clutch and all the wire between. Doesn't seem like much but, can sure give you headaches.

[webbee]

Originally Posted by RIP

D... There's a paper sensor that seems important...

That paper spacer is probably what provides the correct spacing and it probably destructs as soon as the engine starts. I am guessing at this, but I have seen that same paper system used on some small engine coils to set the correct air gap between coil and flywheel. Check to see if the paper is still there and reset per the posted link. Time and gas mileage will tell if we are right.

[1thunder]

yes the paper is to determine the proper depth just barely make contact with the tone wheel and the paper should come off when you start it but some dont no big deal though it wont affect the signal

[beachbummm]

I remember that the old sensor didnt have anything on the tip..The new one did so I will set it all the way into the block in the morning and take it for a ride..

will keep you all posted ..Thanks!