Front drive shaft!

[1096xj]

Ok, i did a serch and could not find an answer to this. I have a 1997 Mountaineer with all wheel drive. I had the tranny out to fix a leak and the rubber boot on the front drive shaft going from the transfer case to the front axle was shot. This is the boot on the end at the transfer case. It looks to be a sealed cv joint. The joint had run dry for sometime so i decided to replace it. The joint is a non servicable part so i had to buy a reman unit from NAPA. I put the tranny and all back together and waited on the remaned shaft to come in. Now i cant get the new shaft to go in. I took it out when i took the tranny out so i dont know if it would have come out with out a problem. My million dollar question is.... do you have to take the tranny or transfer case out to remove and replace this drive shaft???????
Please help.............

[shorod]

Per the 1998 Mountaineer service manual, installation is possible with the transfer case installed. Below are the steps pasted from the manual.

Installation:
1. CAUTION: The can (domed CV joint housing cover) is pressed into the CV joint housing at the factory. When housed incorrectly, the can will appear as shown in the cut-away illustration, top box. Do not reseat the can in the CV joint housing if the can's flange is above the CV joint housings shown in the cut-away illustration, bottom box. Install a new driveshaft.

Verify that the can flange is housed correctly in the CV joint housing as shown in the cut-away illustration, top box. Install an new driveshaft if the can flange is not hosed correctly.

2. CAUTION: Always connect the front driveshaft to the axle first. Otherwise the weight of the driveshaft can pinch the boot between the shaft and the boot can cause the boot to tear.

NOTE: Align the index marks. Install the driveshaft.

3. CAUTION: Tighten the bolts evenly in a cross pattern or damage will occur to the CV joint.

NOTE: Install new washers and bolts. If new bolts are not available, coat the threads of the original bolts with Threadlock and Sealer E0AZ-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5.

Install the new washers and bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly in a cross pattern as shown.

4. Verify that the CV joint has seated squarely in the transfer case flange.
-Check that the space between the end of the CV joint cap and the end of the transfer case flange is equal from the top to the bottom of the two components.
-Rotate the driveshaft 1/4 turn.
-Check that the space between the end of the CV joint cap and the end of the transfer case flange is equal from the top of the bottom of the two components.
-Repeat this procedure several times.
-If the space is not equal at any point in the attachment, remove and reinstall the driveshaft as described in this procedure.

5. NOTE: Install new universal joint retainers and bolts. If new bolts are not available, coat the threads of the original bolts with Threadlock and Sealer E0AZ-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5.

Install the new universal joint retainer and bolts.

6. Install the skid plate.

7. Lower the vehicle.

8. Turn on the air suspension switch, of so equipped.

Good luck!

-Rod

[1096xj]

Thanks shorod. i called NAPA and they are going to get me another shaft and ss if that works. the one i have will not fit in the space. I think if i got it in there it would be under compresion and would destroy the cv joint in a very short time.

[shorod]

Do you still have the original one to compare the replacement against?

-Rod

[1096xj]

No there was an 85.00 core charge on it.

[shorod]

You may want to see if the Napa store has sent the core in yet. If you end up returning the "new" part, and find out the next part doesn't work either and need to go elsewhere, you may find other places have a core charge as well. Hopefully Napa has not sent yours back yet.

-Rod

[1096xj]

shorod, thanks for your help. napa got me another drive shaft and that one worked. Unfourtunatly, the reason i had all this out was the front seal on the tranny was leaking. When i got it all back together i made it about three miles before it was pouring transfluid from the front of the tranny again only worse than before!

[shorod]

If you decide to tackle the seal again, once you get the bad one removed, inspect it closely. Also, inspect the area it seats into and see if there is an edge that will prevent the seal from seating too far. If so, make sure the surfaces the seal installs into are free from any debris.

I had a friend who had a similar issue on his 3000GT VR-4. Couldn't keep the tranny from leaking at the output shaft. Upon close inspection, it became evident that seating the seal flush with the case was not allowing the seal to seat properly. The leaking seals ended up with an oblong opening due to the sealing surface not being exactly perpendicular to the output shaft. That wear would obviously lead to a leak.

A large socket (or the proper seal driver) allowed the fourth seal to final work.

-Rod