HELP! 1984 chevy camaro Carburetor problems!! HELP!

[Tim42o]

I have a 1984 camaro 305 5.0L 4BBL! And just rencectly i changed the sparks plugs and chopped off my exughts(Replaced it tonight). And about 2 weeks ago it started to run like crap...As if its not getin any fuel ill try to accelerate and it just bogs and dies eventually.. Now i cant even make it outta my drive way without it dieing. I just replace the ECM,Fuel pump,Fuel filter. and it still runs like crap...Should i just buy a whole new carburetor? Or what should i do.. PLZ HELP ME I REALLY NEED THIS CAR TO RUN 4 WORK!

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by Tim42o

I have a 1984 camaro 305 5.0L 4BBL! And just rencectly i changed the sparks plugs and chopped off my exughts(Replaced it tonight). And about 2 weeks ago it started to run like crap...As if its not getin any fuel ill try to accelerate and it just bogs and dies eventually.. Now i cant even make it outta my drive way without it dieing. I just replace the ECM,Fuel pump,Fuel filter. and it still runs like crap...Should i just buy a whole new carburetor? Or what should i do.. PLZ HELP ME I REALLY NEED THIS CAR TO RUN 4 WORK!

You getting a check engine light? If so, have you obtained the trouble codes? If so, post them here.

It isn't necessarily the carb - it could be in the distributor or even a failing mechanical fuel pump.

A carb problem should pop off a code 23, 44 or 45.

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by Tim42o

I just rencectly i changed the sparks plugs and chopped off my exughts(Replaced it tonight).

Welcome to aF!

What did yougap the plugs at?

Did you make sure all your plug wires are on and burnt?

Perhaps a cracked plug?.

I think your prolbem lies here.

[Tim42o]

I did get a code 23 once. But now im not getin any codes. And im buying new spark plug's and wires today

[wrightz28]

Why are bying new if you just replaced them

[Tim42o]

i didn't buy them there was a box in the back of the car when it was givin to me(they looked new packge wasnt even open but im not sure) But i think i may have found the problem. On the bottom of the card are 2 jets and it looks like one is either missing or striped out. so i may just go to pick-and-pull buy a new carb and rebuild it.

[wrightz28]

It may be possible if there is a problem with the carb, the old polugs you removed were gapped to compensate and mask the problem.

[Tim42o]

Well....I just bought a new remanufacturd holly carb!(nicest carb ive ever seen from pick and pull) and its still not the problem. but it seems like when the engine get's warm to about 190 thats when it all starts to mess up.....anyone know anything about that problem??

[wrightz28]

That's what I thought, although ya got a nice deal huh isn't it 1/2 price weekend?

Anywho, whoat about the ignition timing? I really thing the problem lies the ignition system.

If the timing is good then I might poke at the fuel pump, but I'm sticking iwth the ign.

[Tim42o]

Originally Posted by wrightz28

That's what I thought, although ya got a nice deal huh isn't it 1/2 price weekend?

Anywho, whoat about the ignition timing? I really thing the problem lies the ignition system.

If the timing is good then I might poke at the fuel pump, but I'm sticking iwth the ign.

Ill take it to a friend and check out the timeing. But i have changed the fuel pump....I heard from a friend that it could be the transmission He said when it get hot it it could mess with the car....

[silicon212]

The transmission won't make the engine run porky unless it's a TH350 with a flaky vacuum modulator - does it have a TH350 and if so, does it throw white smoke while you're driving, with some spark knock (detonation)?

Pull the distributor cap off, and check for dark lines within the cap. Also, pull the rotor off and flip it over and look underneath it. Does it have a dark spot in the middle, under the contact? These rotors sometimes burned through and this will allow coil output to get grounded before going to the plugs. If you see dark lines in the cap, radiating outward from either the center coil button or one of the towers, this is carbon tracking and will cause the engine to run flaky.

Check your plug wires. Do any of them make contact with the exhaust manifolds? Do any of them have a whitish spot in an area in the vicinity of an exhaust manifold? Do any of the wires have oil on them, and if so, are they swollen? Any nicks in the insulation?

Do you have access to a compression gauge, and if so, do you know how to use it? If so, use it and report back what you are getting by cylinder #.

Back to the carburetor, if you replaced the Rochester E4ME with a Holley, I hope you installed a distributor with both vacuum and mechanical advance, if not - your engine will run bad due to the lack of a throttle position sensor, and a mixture control (M/C) solenoid. The computer won't know what the throttle position is, and won't know how to maintain the ignition timing through the EST function of the ECM. You're really better off with the Rochester. A code 23 is an M/C solenoid failure.

[yorkkm]

If this has been sitting for a while the gas tank could have - 1. rust 2. water 3. dirt or something else - My son and I just rebuilt a 84 and had to change out the gas tank because of a similar problem --- cut open fuel filter and check for crap plugging it off.
KY

[Tim42o]

Well it seems like i have found the problem! My damn fuel lines were gloged!! so i took an air compreser and blow though the lines but i think i might have to drop the tank to clean out all the junk inside of it...