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Old 10-02-2006, 08:53 PM
robmcisaac robmcisaac is offline
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1992 Lumina Euro 3.1L Quit can't remove the crank sensor for replacement

I have a 1992 Lumina 3.1L Euro sedan. It would run for a while and quit so I took the ICM out and had it checked (twice) and was told to change the crank sensor. I tried and failed to get it out and after breaking the plastic housing off I now have vise grips clamped to what is left of the internal wires. So I unbolted the engine torque mounts and jacking the motor up a liitle bit then tilting the motor forward to get a better pulling
angle, I have pulled with all my might and it won't come out. Any suggestions? Will I have to remove the oil pan to push it out from the inside? If so, is there an easier way than pulling the motor? @#$%&* Whoever designed this should be hung by his .... whatever..... man this is unbelieveable ... I have never had as much trouble with a car than this Chevy style of ignition .... Please help if you can.
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Old 10-03-2006, 10:11 AM
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richtazz richtazz is offline
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Re: 1992 Lumina Euro 3.1L Quit can't remove the crank sensor for replacement

you need to loosen the rubber o-ring (that is what is stuck) by spraying brake-clean or PB blaster on the reminants of the sensor.
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Old 10-03-2006, 10:23 AM
robmcisaac robmcisaac is offline
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Re: 1992 Lumina Euro 3.1L Quit can't remove the crank sensor for replacement

Thanks. I'll give that a try.
Rob.
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Old 10-04-2006, 12:02 PM
robmcisaac robmcisaac is offline
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Re: 1992 Lumina Euro 3.1L Quit can't remove the crank sensor for replacement

I appreciate the help. I went to several places to confirm just where the CPS is located and it is on the rear or right side at the bottom of the engine block in the middle on a 1992 euro. I actually had so much trouble accessing the area that it took two days to get it out. I tried spraying it but it didn't work. After chipping or breaking all of the outer plastic housing off, I tried to use vise grips on the wires sticking out of it. No dice. It still wouldn't budge. In the process both wires broke off so I had no choice but to finally remove the torque mounts and jack the engine away from the firewall then remove the alternator and then had enough room (6") to access the middle bottom of the engine block where the CPS is. I have a 90 degree mikita drill so I was able to drill several holes into the remainig plastic of the CPS and screwed in a large screw for a reasonable purchase for pulling it out. I needed several holes so that when I put the screw in, it wouldn't spread the plastic and bind it tight again. I pushed the CPS in and pulled it out and after a few of those it began to slide a little more each time. Was I glad for that because the alternative was to raise the engine, remove the front engine mounting framework and then remove the oil pan so I could push it out from the inside.
I was successful so thanks to everyone who helped or tried to.
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