71 charger 318 to 440 swap

shark2000 · #1 10-01-2006, 08:45 PM

I just worked out a deal for a 71 Charger, 318 original, (I'm going to miss my YZ250) that comes with an 80 motor home 440 and tranny and electronics to make it run. I have no idea what the power rating is on this engine. I know this would be set up for torque. (44,000 original miles) It comes with a larger radiator (from some chevy product he said). I need and exhaust that drops behind the steering gear box. I don't suppose the front brakes and suspension off 92 Dekota (318 2wd) would fit? Could the motor mount adapter needed for this to bolt up be made at home? I don't know where to even find them. If I could find a picture of what it looks like, I may be able to just make them. I believe I need to get a bigger rear end on it. I don't know what in it. Will the rear leaf springs off a 92 Dekota fit? He said it need rear springs. Any known links online somewhere that would help out? My Google search didn't come up with much. Will the brake booster on the Dekota work. I'm not sure if it comes with one, but I didn't see it when I looked under the hood. I read I may need a smaller one. Need a larger fuel line. Any other info I need that I haven't mentioned yet?
Thank you,
Mark

master hec0 · #2 10-01-2006, 09:37 PM

dakota is a truck that wasnt even around in the 70s and well its a truck so its not gonna fit

shark2000 · #3 10-01-2006, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by master hec0

dakota is a truck that wasnt even around in the 70s and well its a truck so its not gonna fit

I thought I'd throw that in as a joke. lol
Can't I make it fit? lol
Big hammer... Bigger hammer..... Even bigger hammer! lol

master hec0 · #4 10-01-2006, 10:17 PM

well you could make it fit if u probally sawed em bashed em and wasted hours gettin it to fit but then ud look back at them and they would look like shit and also wouldnt be structural sound

shark2000 · #5 10-01-2006, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by master hec0

well you could make it fit if u probally sawed em bashed em and wasted hours gettin it to fit but then ud look back at them and they would look like shit and also wouldnt be structural sound

As long as it works. That's all that matters.
How about the 4X4 vans and cars? They made it work. How about that Dodge V10 on a bike?
I did use the 92 318 crank and rods on my 77 318. That works fine.

LOL

master hec0 · #6 10-01-2006, 10:31 PM

of uf u made a pair outa a dodge dakota id say the weld where you welded then would break

shark2000 · #7 10-03-2006, 03:35 AM

So, from what I see, I really need to get the BB K member. I believe this will allow the engine to sit lower with a lower center of balance. From what I can see, the motor mount adapters will raise the engine up about 3 or 4 inches. Will the steering gear box need have room? I know I need the exhaust to drop at the back on the driver’s side. It already does on the passenger side. I suppose I will need the heavier torsion bars for the bigger engine? ( I kick my self for selling my 72 charger w/400 BB. Don't listen to women begging you to sell her your car that you don't wont to sell, just because she needs a car! ) Now that the 72 wouldn't need the smog her, I could have torn all that junk off. It was rust free too. I do remember the torsion bars on the 72 were bigger that the ones on this 71 w/318. Can I use stainless steal to do some body repairs? Why don't they use it in the first place? The cars would never rust out. I know some one that was just asking me if I could do any thing with a stainless fridge that he has that doesn't work. I could work the metal to whatever shape I need and weld it in? Right? Will the stainless weld to what's there? Or is the melting temp too different? I don't know.

JustSayGo · #8 10-03-2006, 07:33 AM

You need a B engine K member. The rear ends are the same 8 3/4" RG. Steering gear boxes are the same and bolt to the K member. The exhaust is totally different, nothing will mix. The rear gravel pan is different for dual exhaust. Torsion bars are larger diameter. Rear leafs would be different, and a front stabalizer bar is added. Brakes are larger, both front and rear on R/T's. Wheel size is also larger to fit over the front brakes.

Don't spend any time supposing any part of a Dodge Dakota will fit.

Deloreon used stainless steal. Painting is one problem.

master hec0 · #9 10-03-2006, 08:29 AM

stainless steel will paint delorean made 3 painted in the factory i belive they were gold and iv seen people paint them too so painting shouldnt be a problom well it probally will but its do able

shark2000 · #10 10-03-2006, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by master hec0

stainless steel will paint delorean made 3 painted in the factory i belive they were gold and iv seen people paint them too so painting shouldnt be a problom well it probally will but its do able

I saw one on E-bay about a month or two ago that they claimed it was a factory Red. I guess as long as your prep it and prime it, it would work. Primer is ment to stick to anything to make it paintable isn't it? But the other part of that question, Is the melting point close to what's already on the car or not? I've tried to weld two different metals together, where one melts alot cooler than the other, and it's very difficult to fuse them together.

master hec0 · #11 10-03-2006, 05:56 PM

im doing welding in my school rite now if im not mistaken stainless steel is like aluminum the inside will melt faster then th eoutside thus makin it hard toweld probally would need a filler metal to try and fuse em together and a flux coating is a must

shark2000 · #12 10-03-2006, 08:26 PM

So your saying I would need to braise it in place?

shark2000 · #13 10-03-2006, 08:34 PM

Just a note about suspension swapping from other vehicles. I've watch the Rags to Riches shows and other shows where they re-build a car from the frame up, and they showed how they use suspension off of other cars to put disk brakes on say 30's through 50's cars. What would be the simplest front disk swap for this car?

master hec0 · #14 10-03-2006, 10:13 PM

i honestly dont know im not a suspenshion wiz hell ididnt even spell that right
and i dont kno what braise means either iv only been welding for 3 weeks so im still learning but if u got use of a arc welder id think that would be the best to fuse the stainless steel with a 6010 stick

master hec0 · #15 10-03-2006, 10:20 PM

now i know what it means
Braising is the process of heating another metal than that of the piece at a higher temperature than soldering but lower than welding, so that the added metal forms a hard, strong bond with the base metal. Some materials that can not be welded can be braised - cast iron for example. A common braising material is brass. Because it is done with a metal that melts below the base metal, that places an upper limit on the temp the joint can be exposed to - most will fall apart at glass working temps. Depending on the amount of metal involved, braising can be done with an especially hot propane/air torch (braising torch), with propane/compressed air, propane/oxygen, or oxy/acetylene. Braising equipment can be less costly than welding and requires less eye protection

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