right exhaust pipes not working

[vectorspecialist]

wen i bought the car they weren't working but, i had other things to worry about so it could get thro inspection, which it still failed, cel went on, but as i said the right two pipes on my tt aren't pushing out any exhaust, the lefts are working fine, and a blue'ish white smoke comes out of the left pipes, that's most likely water, from washing it, drying the best i can, and then garaging it, also any tips on how to wash between the rear pillar and the body of the car, thanks

[VR43000GT]

Sounds like that blue puff of smoke is burnt oil. And if the CEL went on it very well may be that you have a clogged or leaking cat.

[AutostradaVR4]

im assuming your car has active exhaust? the right side wont push hardly anything at idle. Its not a problem, its just the way the exhaust is run. Look under your car and youll see what i mean.

[vectorspecialist]

well the car has two mode suspension and exhaust, stiff and softer suspension, and sport and touring exhuast, if that's wat u mean by active, then ok, i'll look, and the oil might b a good reason, i know the cap wasn't on tight wen i got it home the first day, but i don't think that would cause smoke to come out the tail pipes, that would just come out of my suspension covers, i have a 1g, the covers are popped up a little, not susposed to b but it vents better.

[3kvr4]

for the blue smoke part, you might have bad piston rings.

[Linebckr49]

white smoke = coolant

black smoke = fuel (i.e. rich a/f mixture)

blue smoke = oil (oil getting into the combustion chamber and being burnt)

piston rings aren't very likely, but still possible. valve guides are most likely the problem if your burning oil. they tend to be a problem on our cars around 120k miles.

but you said bluish/white smoke. can you be more specific? was it truly both colors, or maybe more so one than the other.

[Igovert500]

blink was right on the active exhaust, it's perfectly normal. I don't even have the active exhaust feature (ie, no button, but mine still does it, it is just hte way the exhaust is designed) as said, get under and look adn you'll see why.

linebckr was correct about blue being oil and most likely valve stem seeals.

But your main problem is the CEL and failing emissions. And we wont be able to help you until you pull the code and tell us which code(s) you are getting from the ecu.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-diagcodes91-93.htm

[vectorspecialist]

the smoke is more white than anything else, and it tends to be wen i move the car or first start it up, after it's being sitting for about a wk, the car is uninsured, the car starts strong, but wen i let off the clutch, the revs drop to near 250rpm, so i pump the gas a little and it fixes that, but wen i do so the smoke comes out the back te car has only 60k on it

[Igovert500]

Have you done the 60k tuneup? Not that it's really related, but don't forget about it or put it off.

With newer oils, sometimes they burn a bit whiter than they used to, so sometimes it is harder to tell if it's white or blue. The fact that it happens more so on startup seems to reinforce valve seal stems.

If in fact it is white smoke, that isn't good. It could be a leaking headgasket, check your oil for bubbles and any white/yellow milky buildup (which would indicate coolant) And check your coolant for any oil floating on top.

RPMs dropping to 250 isn't good. Do your rpms fluctuate? It'd check for vac leaks, and also run a search on 'iac' chances are your's may need cleaning or replacing. A search will result in plenty of info.

[vectorspecialist]

havent done the 60k tune-up, been too busy looking for a job, i drive my other car, dodge neon, i need a job to pay rent and get the car out on the road and safely,and like i said the rpms only drop when starting the car, after a few secs it goes to about 1000, and it stays there, it never fluctuates that i notice, i did do the oil and filter about 500miles ago 10/30. did slap plates on it and drove it a little, up and down the road to "strech it's legs" worked well, pulled normally, and does anyone know the best shift spots in terms of rpm, in racing terms, not veryday driving.

[Igovert500]

a) pull the codes from the ECU via the link I posted in post 7...otherwise we will never be able to tell you why you have a CEL

b) Clean your IAC 250rpms isn't normal, neither is 1,000. Normal warm idle is ~700. Clean it and see what happens.

c) Don't put off hte 60k too long, remember those belts are meant for 60k/5 years. Your timing belt gets old and snaps and it's gonna cost you a whole hell of alot more than a tuneup.

d) Check your oil and coolant. Alot can happen in 500 miles.

e) The stock turbos can't hold much boost to redline. So while some believe you should shift at redline, others say to avoid the drop in boost, shift a bit earlier. I personally just run to redline, and have no problems, but if you want try shifting 500 rpms earlier or something.

[vectorspecialist]

does anyone know the list of what was stock and wat were options on the stealth, i drove 2day, there was no smoke, brakes pulled to the right, but we already fixed that, i dont know much about elecs. in a car, it needs to be repainted anyway, so i'll get the whole things looked at by the shop, i have a list of things i notice, so i'll just hand him the list, he's got a few r/t, so he'll know what might be wrong, how do we post pics, like blinkra182 has his vr4 up, how we do that

[AutostradaVR4]

hit the "User CP" thing at top left of this page to edit your profile. To post a pic in a prifile or post, you first have to upload it to a website. I have mine on cardomain and myspace, but theres tons of sites where you can upload pics for free.
then, in the post or profile, type this:

[IMG]http://www.whateversite.com/picture.gif[\img]

.................only put the / instead of the \ for ^

oh, btw, for a profile pic, i think it cant be any bigger than 400x150 pixels