Re:1993 Rodeo Transmission Check Light Fashing

[hambone35]

Original Post: August 28,2006

When you first start it, you can drive it for five miles or so and it drives fine. Then the check tranny light comes on and it goes into limp mode. When I turn it off and restart it, the light will stay off as long as you put it in reverse, low 1 or 2. The other two gears feel like it is in winter mode. I have looked at other posts but cant figure it out. I have replaced the alternator with another used one that was tested before installation. If there is anyone that could help me figure my problem out, I gladly accept the advice and thank you in advance.
Hammy

New Post
Hello
: To "Ramblin Fever", "2000izusu", " surferfletch" and " trooperbc" much thanks go out to you for responding to my thread. I have been out of town away from the vehicle. I was able to view your post but was unable to answer some questions and didn't have the time to post the answer to the ones I did. All the while I have been having some very entertaining dreams involving my Rodeo. I really like this vehicle. I am here with the Rodeo for the next day and then I will be on the road again. I want to take it with me so I help from all of you .
Here goes, It is just like I stated in the original post. It is like when it warms up the light will come start flashing and then. Hours or days later you can get in and start off with strong and good shifts until the light starts blinking. After that you can manually shift from first to second but on changeover it engages hard. Second to third is a slight wind out. You can't feel a change in overdrive when you upshift or downshift it.

Changed the fluid and strainer on August 28 with the same results.

Now the bolts securing the range selector switch were loose and I just tightened them but it did the same thing.

Each gear that you shift it into lights up accordingly on the floor shifter.

We sell used parts and have a couple of Rodeo's in the yard. I had them pull me a range selector switch and I will be either replacing or servicing the one on there now this evening.

Even though the alternator is charging fine, should I replace it? I have another used one and don't have a problem with buying a new one. But if a new one doesn't fix the problem.

I plan on staying up all night with my Rodeo. I am posting my cell phone number (757) 710-6278 and will be checking back on the forum as much as I can. If you know of anything that can help, call or post a reply to my thread.

If anyone needs parts, contact me to see if I have what you need . Thank you
Hammy

[Ramblin Fever]

How old's your battery? Have you double checked all ground connections?

Unfortunately, there is NO guarantee that what we'll suggest will work - but what I CAN say AND have experienced myself, is although a remanufactored alternator will test fine on the table, it doesn't always work under load on an ISUZU. I emphasise Isuzu because these trucks are voltage happy and if they sense a weakness they will act weird.

I went through 3 Checkers alternators before I gave up and bought a brand-new Bosch ($210), bingo - problem solved. However, my transmission was still shifting ok, it was just other issues, i.e. no radio, no headlights, no a/c - BUT a bad alternator CAN and DOES effect the transmission as well.

Basically what I'm saying is I don't know if a new alternator is your answer, but I can't say it isn't either - luck of the draw.

Transmission fluid level good?

Ok, you're saying that at times you can get in and drive for a bit and it's perfect, all gears? And then after it heats up it starts acting funny? Could also be a torque convertor issue - these typically act up once the transmission has reached normal temp.

[Ramblin Fever]

Parts?? - Sure, on the Rodeo's sitting in your yard, does either of them have a good set of the back window shocks?

[trooperbc]

Originally Posted by hambone35

....
Now the bolts securing the range selector switch were loose and I just tightened them but it did the same thing.
.....
...Hammy

well, now. . . that right there is your problem!

the mode switch is adjusted by loosening it's two bolts and swiveling around the center
there really isn't much adjustment possible, but it is very important for the correct operation of the mode switch.

you adjust it with the gear shift lever in neutral. there are two ways to do the adjustment: 'manually' by aligning a slot on the mode switch itself; and by disconnecting the connector and using an ohm meter.

i just did this both ways, using the factory manual. it's real difficult to describe here quickly and i just don't have the time to figure out how to tell you how to do it right now. hopefully someone else can chime in before you leave. this isn't something you are going to do on the road, anyway.

i, personnaly, wouldn't keep driving it until you get this adjusted, fixed.


hth


//bc

[hambone35]

To "Ramblin Fever", "2000izusu", " surferfletch" and " trooperbc" and all that can lend some information and opinions. Cleaned the mode selector and adjusted. It did the same thing. Just put it back in the air hoping that just looking at it would fix it. Decided to just pull the plugs at the sensors and replug them. Pulled the front connector and fluid dripped from the plug. Can see inside the sensor/connector on an angle and it seems as though the sensor has some fluid in the contact holes. Will some one school me on those two sensor/connectors, their function and relation to the computer and my problem? I had them pull me those sensor/connector out of a bad transmission but the holding tabs snaped. Is there pressure built up behind those sensors? Any ideas on how to install those sensors/ connector so that they don't pop out?

[trooperbc]

Originally Posted by hambone35

....Decided to just pull the plugs at the sensors and replug them. Pulled the front connector and fluid dripped from the plug. Can see inside the sensor/connector on an angle and it seems as though the sensor has some fluid in the contact holes. Will some one school me on those two sensor/connectors, their function and relation to the computer and my problem? I had them pull me those sensor/connector out of a bad transmission but the holding tabs snaped. Is there pressure built up behind those sensors? Any ideas on how to install those sensors/ connector so that they don't pop out?

what "sensors/connector" ?

oil will act as an insulator, so if its fouling contacts, it could cause whatever not to work. clean with carb cleaner and/or contact cleaner and see if that helps.

but again, i don't know what sensors you are referring to. . .

hth

//bc

P.s. did you ever take this to a trans shop or dealer to get the trans codes read? with all the going around in circles, that'd probably be the best bet, imo.

[hambone35]

Originally Posted by trooperbc

what "sensors/connector" ?

oil will act as an insulator, so if its fouling contacts, it could cause whatever not to work. clean with carb cleaner and/or contact cleaner and see if that helps.

but again, i don't know what sensors you are referring to. . .

hth

//bc

P.s. did you ever take this to a trans shop or dealer to get the trans codes read? with all the going around in circles, that'd probably be the best bet, imo.

It is a five pin connecter to the front valve body. I cleaned it with carburator cleaner and blew it dry with air. No change.

I took the Rodeo to two auto parts stores with on and off car alternater testing. Off the vehicle it tested 14.04 and on the vehicle it tested 14.10 to 14.19 through the test range. The combination of five knowledgeable automotive persons, "Automotive Forums" replies and myself have brainstormed and tested almost everything possible short of the transmission shops testing procedure.

The nearest transmission shop is around 38 miles away with 21 miles of that being the "Chesepeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel". The cost of the bridge is $12 either way and a tow is $200. I have been debating the possibility of trying to take it there and the possibilities of breaking down on the bridge or the other side.

Now here is something we determined while testing. The light stays on now. When you first get in the vehicle and turn the key on the light starts to blink. After the two on car alternater test, the light was out until you put it in drive. Park, reverse or neutral no light. When you unplug the range selector plug, there is a slight change in RPM. I plugged another range selector switch in and unplugged it with no change. The light stays flashing through all of this. Unplug the transmission computer and the light goes out, replug and you hear a clicking sound at the computer and the light starts flashing again.

What is the possibility and syptoms of a defective trans computer, range selecter switch cleaned and adjusted properly, valve body or any ideas? Where can I find the trans shop test criteria ie code description, wiring diagram or anything that would assist me troubleshooting prior to attempting the trip accross the bridge? I have driven it local on the open road but on the other side of the bridge is stop and go traffic. I don't want to chance it with the possibilities of damaging the trans. itself. If you don't rush the vehicle, it shifts gently. Rushing it is if it is in winter mode. Power switch works but winter mode doesn't.

[2eyefishclaw]

I will guess P1870 trans component slipping
bet you need a rebuild

[nbdddm0]

Ok, I have had a problem where i start up run 4 to 5 miles and light comes on. I unhooked the 5 pin and 4 pin connectors cleaned them and plugged them back in. Now it light comes on imeediately and goes out after 4 to 5 files at avg speed of 50 mph.

Getting fixed today? 1. stuck valve preventing lockup in 4th.
2. Bad temperature sensor (inside) uses the 4 pin connector.

I think its time to have a shop look at it.