how to clear codes?

[cwsttu]

hey guys, that problem with the tranny came back p1742 and p1745 dealing with the TCC solenoid sticking on and the car stalling in O, D, and R.... the obdII reader at my local autozone places are not reading the codes but the tranny shop is. after some research on here i found several people are just clearing these codes since they are not hard fault codes and the car is fine after that, i know this from 2 months ago when i had this problem. The tranny shop is not wanting to clear them this time but charge me 2k for a full rebuild (saying i have a vaccum leak) that is bull one because the tranny was rebuilt in october by the previous owner and two vac leaks dont fix themselves after clearing the codes in the computer....

so what im asking is, is there a way i can clear the codes myself or what can i buy that will do it for me...

thanks
Stan

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by cwsttu

hey guys, that problem with the tranny came back p1742 and p1745 dealing with the TCC solenoid sticking on and the car stalling in O, D, and R.... the obdII reader at my local autozone places are not reading the codes but the tranny shop is. after some research on here i found several people are just clearing these codes since they are not hard fault codes and the car is fine after that, i know this from 2 months ago when i had this problem. The tranny shop is not wanting to clear them this time but charge me 2k for a full rebuild (saying i have a vaccum leak) that is bull one because the tranny was rebuilt in october by the previous owner and two vac leaks dont fix themselves after clearing the codes in the computer....

so what im asking is, is there a way i can clear the codes myself or what can i buy that will do it for me...

thanks
Stan

Tips on getting a good answer to your questions.
People trying to answer your question do not have a crystal ball.
So give them all of the info you have like year make and model and engine and transmission.
Also service cars engine and transmission service history or any recent repairs or problems.
Also a description of your problem and what it is doing or not doing.
If you have codes give up the code no.
And remember a code does not say replace the part but only points to the problem that you have to check out.
So to better help you give up all of the info you have on it.
MT

[cwsttu]

sorry guys i have a 98 taurus se with the 3.0 vin code U motor..... does this door thing really work?

[ricebike]

either the door thing... or after you unplug the battery from the terminals...

turn on headlights honk horn...just to let the residual electricity drain out...

only thing i'm concern w/ is some models like honda/chevy ones come to mind--> have an anti-theft code for the stereo... look into that if your factory radio have one of these things.

[Huney1]

If you just disconnect the negative terminal they will still clear and I don't know why the door open or step on the brake thing, maybe to make sure the last bit of current has been drained from chips in the computer. Just do it and it'll clear the codes.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by cwsttu

sorry guys i have a 98 taurus se with the 3.0 vin code U motor..... does this door thing really work?

On a 98 with OBD11 the only way you cand clear codes is with a scanner.
MT

[Huney1]

"On a 98 with OBD11 the only way you cand clear codes is with a scanner."

Whoops, my bad, excuse please. Hmmm. . . . You said AZ couldn't pull the codes but maybe they can clear them. I think Wally World sells an inexpensive scanner and if it doesn't clear them return it for a refund. Exhausted my ideas so someone else will have to help you.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by cwsttu

sorry guys i have a 98 taurus se with the 3.0 vin code U motor..... does this door thing really work?

If it has a problem clearing codes will not help.
They will only come right back.
You have one engine running code and one transmission code.
The transmission code is for a TCC solenoid prioblem.
Not a transmission rebuild.
Watch them transmission shops some are rebuild happie.
Your best thing is to find a good repair shop.

Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.
MT

[cwsttu]

well figured yall might like an update. i brought the car back home from the tranny shop after telling them i wont pay for anything since i know they are lying to me. did some research here on the forum and in my haynes manual and decided to replace the VSS sensor on a hunch. the damn thing runs like a champ now. made me so plum cotton pickin mad that that was all it was and the tranny shop told me i needed a rebuild. I am going to contact the BBB and give them a bad rating. good luck if anybody else has this problem

stan

[ricebike]

thanks for update... hmmm...

weird that the trouble codes didn't point out to p05xx #s as listed here:

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/eec-vobd2.shtml

or here:

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/96-01obd2mil.shtml

thank goodness fo da internetz...

[lectraplayer]

The way I clear codes is I went to Wal-Mart and bought a $60 OBD2 scan tool to see what a check-engine light was over (and it may have come down since then). Upon reading the code and deciding what the culprit is, I can just beat a button on the scan-tool twice while I'm still driving (not recommend in high-traffic areas, don't wreck just to read a code! ) and I'm all set. The code I keep getting is a cadilytic converter inefficiency warning, but Alabama doesn't have emissions laws.

[ricebike]

waitamin...

it went from a tranny problem...

to a vehicle speed sensor problem...

to a non-efficient catalytic converter problem...

geez, all falling apart on you @ once?

[cwsttu]

Originally Posted by ricebike

waitamin...

it went from a tranny problem...

to a vehicle speed sensor problem...

to a non-efficient catalytic converter problem...

geez, all falling apart on you @ once?

haha yes a tranny problem dealing with the TCC sticking ON so it would stall out... the VSS directly controls this as well as other sensors such as AIT and MAF... ect... this was on its way out thus putting out a bad signal to the ecu causing the TCC to stick ON..

and that cat problem wasnt me that was some other dude commenting on how he clears his code a weird way lol

[Huney1]

"The way I clear codes is I went to Wal-Mart and bought a $60 OBD2 scan tool to see what a check-engine light was over (and it may have come down since then)." I was in WallyWorld and they have two scanners, one in the price range you mentioned and another around $95. bucks. Are you happy with yours, does it perform well and what's the brand name? Heck, for $65. it would be worth it to have one to take on trips so if we get a code I can find out what it is and go from there.

"The code I keep getting is a cadilytic converter inefficiency warning, but Alabama doesn't have emissions laws." We don't have them in SC either. Inefficency warning - Wha's 'dat? Is the O2 sensor behind the cat saying it has to much unburned fuel in the exhaust gas? If it isn't guzzling gas I'm with you and I'd keep on truckin' because those cats are some more expensive! Maybe you need new spark plugs ? ? ?

[cwsttu]

guys remember that the code checkers from wally world or any other parts store can only read engine codes... only the sophisticated multi thousand $ ones can read things such as airbag, tranny and other codes. thats what i needed to clear out, the cheapo's cannot even read them much less clear them out

stan