88 camaro rs timing chain

[Drewet88]

Well guess who gets to do a timing chain on his girlfriends camaro?


N e thing else I should do while I'm in there.

Never did it before but I basically know my way around an engine.

So can anyone offer some advice or instructions that may help me out.

O and will I need any special tools?

[silicon212]

You will need a harmonic balancer puller, and a gear puller for the crank sprocket. Don't simply replace the chain - replace the entire set. They're not expensive by any stretch. I think I paid $20 for the entire set on the last one I did on a small block.

[Drewet88]

Originally Posted by silicon212

You will need a harmonic balancer puller, and a gear puller for the crank sprocket. Don't simply replace the chain - replace the entire set. They're not expensive by any stretch. I think I paid $20 for the entire set on the last one I did on a small block.

You're fast.

harmonic balancer puller got one of those when I worked on my oldsmobile.
can i use the same one for the camaro or are they different?

i meant the entire set i just was lazy @ typing.

n e thing else i should do while i'm in there?

[silicon212]

The puller you have will work, they're pretty much one-size-fits-all. Make sure you have any gaskets and sealant - the sealant is a big thing - use a good RTV such as any of the Ultra series silicone gasket makers from Permatex - or better yet, use "The Right Stuff". This is more of a polymeric rubber than silicone, but it works awesome.

The area of the timing cover near the pan, where it interfaces with the front pan seal, is an area that could cause much headache with leaks if it's not sealed right. Of course, I am assuming this is a small-block Chevy engine, and not the 2.8/3.1.

You can do the timing cover without having to drop - or even loosen - the oil pan. When you get all of the bolts off (hint: use a THIN walled 7/16" socket for the timing cover bolts - the thinnest you can find), gently pry the cover forward, up and off. The resistance you will encounter while pulling it off is coming from the rubber front pan seal. While the cover is off, clean it up and replace the seal. Don't forget to coat the lip of the new seal with a little bit of oil! Inspect the sealing surface on the harmonic balancer for scoring - if you find any you will have to get a sleeve or the new seal will become history fast. Over time, the rubber of the seal gets rock hard and this will score the balancer surface.

When you're putting it back together, apply sealant (whichever you choose) on the area of the pan sealing surface where the pan meets the block, and don't be shy here. Also, make sure you put sealant on the timing cover also in this area. Use sealant under the new rubber pan seal that you use, and use silicone sealant on the surface of the seal which mates with the pan. This will double as a lubricant to aid in reinstalling the cover as it's going to be tight when you put it back on. A trick I use is to cut the very ends of the new seal off, the last 1/8" or so, and rely on sealant in this area to stop leaks. This makes installing the new seal and timing cover much easier.

When you put the harmonic balancer back on, don't hit it with a hammer as you can damage it. I have a longer "center bolt" that I use to simply bolt it back on. That's the best way.

[Drewet88]

Originally Posted by silicon212

The puller you have will work, they're pretty much one-size-fits-all. Make sure you have any gaskets and sealant - the sealant is a big thing - use a good RTV such as any of the Ultra series silicone gasket makers from Permatex - or better yet, use "The Right Stuff". This is more of a polymeric rubber than silicone, but it works awesome.

The area of the timing cover near the pan, where it interfaces with the front pan seal, is an area that could cause much headache with leaks if it's not sealed right. Of course, I am assuming this is a small-block Chevy engine, and not the 2.8/3.1.

You can do the timing cover without having to drop - or even loosen - the oil pan. When you get all of the bolts off (hint: use a THIN walled 7/16" socket for the timing cover bolts - the thinnest you can find), gently pry the cover forward, up and off. The resistance you will encounter while pulling it off is coming from the rubber front pan seal. While the cover is off, clean it up and replace the seal. Don't forget to coat the lip of the new seal with a little bit of oil! Inspect the sealing surface on the harmonic balancer for scoring - if you find any you will have to get a sleeve or the new seal will become history fast. Over time, the rubber of the seal gets rock hard and this will score the balancer surface.

When you're putting it back together, apply sealant (whichever you choose) on the area of the pan sealing surface where the pan meets the block, and don't be shy here. Also, make sure you put sealant on the timing cover also in this area. Use sealant under the new rubber pan seal that you use, and use silicone sealant on the surface of the seal which mates with the pan. This will double as a lubricant to aid in reinstalling the cover as it's going to be tight when you put it back on. A trick I use is to cut the very ends of the new seal off, the last 1/8" or so, and rely on sealant in this area to stop leaks. This makes installing the new seal and timing cover much easier.

When you put the harmonic balancer back on, don't hit it with a hammer as you can damage it. I have a longer "center bolt" that I use to simply bolt it back on. That's the best way.

It is a 2.8

[silicon212]

I would think the 2.8 is pretty close in basic design, someone might want to correct me in case I'm wrong.

[cooltc2004]

On my 3.1, we used a sbc hbp on my 3.1, and all we needed to do was use some sort of an extension (we used a socket)