VATS error

[Andrewhuffman]

i have a 95 custom with a security that like to come on..... I have my original key(Never ever had a problem with it) but i made a copy to use. its a #6. my first copy was working fonr for a month then it started to mess up. A key maker tested it and if it was wiggeled it would change resistance and say error. he said the key was bad.... i bought a new one from him, he tested it before i bought it to be sure. yesterday, my key set the security light on, so i waited for it to go off ad try agan. luckly it started on the second attempt. when i got home i grabed my original. on the way to work (the new key) set the light on again. so now i use my original. key maker suggest a bypass or a new igintion. wtf!

i have engine problems that havent been fixed, also i changed my ecm last week in hope of fixing my enjine problems. it didnt help but i didnt change it back. but why would anything effect my copied but never my original. keymaker said it coyuld of been coincidence but that is a obscene amont of coinedence. any solutins besides the bypass? better question whats the cheapest solution?

[spinne1]

Originally Posted by Andrewhuffman

i have a 95 custom with a security that like to come on..... I have my original key(Never ever had a problem with it) but i made a copy to use. its a #6. my first copy was working fonr for a month then it started to mess up. A key maker tested it and if it was wiggeled it would change resistance and say error. he said the key was bad.... i bought a new one from him, he tested it before i bought it to be sure. yesterday, my key set the security light on, so i waited for it to go off ad try agan. luckly it started on the second attempt. when i got home i grabed my original. on the way to work (the new key) set the light on again. so now i use my original. key maker suggest a bypass or a new igintion. wtf!

i have engine problems that havent been fixed, also i changed my ecm last week in hope of fixing my enjine problems. it didnt help but i didnt change it back. but why would anything effect my copied but never my original. keymaker said it coyuld of been coincidence but that is a obscene amont of coinedence. any solutins besides the bypass? better question whats the cheapest solution?

The bypass is your easiest and best solution. First, use a voltmeter to determine the resistance of your key's resistor. Next, go to radio shack and buy resistors that add to close to the exact resistance of your key. Next, solder each resister together to make a chain to match the resistance of your key. Next, remove your glove box. Now, there is a black box towards the left side of the opening under a ledge. This is the VATS control box. If you remove the wire harness, you want to cut the purple/white wire and the white/black wire about 6 to 8 inches from the box (or whatever gives you plenty of work room). To be sure, the wires are in positions B8 and B7 on the wiring harness. Now, solder the resistor you made to the two wires going into the wiring harness that you cut (leave the other ends of the wires you cut free--they don't go anywhere for all practical purposes anymore). Use that black heat shrink tubing for putting the resistors together and also for the finished resistors to wiring job (or just use black electrical tape). Now, put the black box back if you removed it, or just put the electrical wiring harness back if you did not. Test it now using your key to see if the car starts (and without any red security light). If it works, then you no longer need a key with a resistor. You can dupe the resistor key at Lowe's and use that new key if you wanted.

You can also use this page as a guide:

http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

Note that I suggest putting the wire in near the box behind the glove box, while the site linked suggests putting your resistor chain under the steering wheel. I think my solution is better for two reasons. One, the access is easier doing it my way. Second, the orange wires in question are very small and flimsy and could develop an open with too much fidgeting. Either way is the same thing as the two orange wires connect to the two wires I suggest you use and nowhere else.

[Bassasasin]

Not to make this more confusing or difficult. You may get lucky and save some time and efffort. You seem to be so close to the actual problem.

I would measure both keys with an Ohm meter. Also, Maybe that the bad one isnt making good connection due to its physical characteristics or dirt.

Bass

[Andrewhuffman]

yeah... but why would this be a reoccuring problem? both key are praticly new and they send the wrong signal.

[imidazol97]

How does the connector on the theft deterrent module come out of the thing. I've gotten in to the right location but I can't get the connector loose!

I can't figure out just how to pull. There's a white clip that catches on the one side. I've lifted that and pulled but it doesn't come out easiy.

[spinne1]

Originally Posted by imidazol97

How does the connector on the theft deterrent module come out of the thing. I've gotten in to the right location but I can't get the connector loose!

I can't figure out just how to pull. There's a white clip that catches on the one side. I've lifted that and pulled but it doesn't come out easiy.

You simply squeeze the plastic just above and connected to the harness inward and pull and wiggle. You may need to remove the box from its installed position to get a good grip.

[imidazol97]

Originally Posted by spinne1

You simply squeeze the plastic just above and connected to the harness inward and pull and wiggle. You may need to remove the box from its installed position to get a good grip.

IS that on the longer sides? There's a clip (blue) on the short narrow sides that I squeezed and it came upclipped. It looked like it had comb teeth that went down inside the connector.

Is the Theft deterrent module also the Body control module on a 98?

[spinne1]

Originally Posted by imidazol97

IS that on the longer sides? There's a clip (blue) on the short narrow sides that I squeezed and it came upclipped. It looked like it had comb teeth that went down inside the connector.

Is the Theft deterrent module also the Body control module on a 98?

I think we are talking about two different things. The VATS module only has one wire harness. Second, I know nothing about a 98.