1999 Buick Regal LS

[kfriendzy]

I am having problems with my 1999 buick regal. Any help would be appreciated.

The car wouldn't start. After several tries I heard a clicking sound, couple more tries and it started but then I couldn't depress the button on top of the shifter. Shut it off, couldn't get it started again so I towed it home. After a little while it started again but the dashboard lights were going crazy...the ABS light is on, the Tripometer doesn't work (I think it may have been blinking) and the traction light doesn't work.

In order to start the car the cable switch to the shifter has to be disconnected. While car is running I have no brake lights or directionals but the 4 ways work. If I turn the headlights on the car shuts off.

Thank You,
kfriendzy

[BNaylor]

Welcome to AF.

The first thing to check is the battery. You can get it tested. Next check the battery terminals and cables for corrosion and tightness.

If that doesn't work then you have signs of a flaky ignition switch and harness assembly.

[kfriendzy]

It was hooked up to a computer and there was about 5 codes, off hand I only remember 3 for sure P1605 P1610 P1...going back out to work on it some more and I will hook it back up to the computer and write the codes down on my collective sheet of info. I will also try the battery and work from there. Thank You,
kfriendzy

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by kfriendzy

It was hooked up to a computer and there was about 5 codes, off hand I only remember 3 for sure P1605 P1610 P1...going back out to work on it some more and I will hook it back up to the computer and write the codes down on my collective sheet of info. I will also try the battery and work from there. Thank You,
kfriendzy

Until you get the 12 volt supply issue resolved the DTCs you are getting are irrelevant. Although not valid codes for your year model Regal they are showing up because the PCM supply voltage is low. One of the smaller red wires off the battery positive cable feeds the PCM module 12 volts direct.

[kfriendzy]

I can't get the battery tested right now...so I was wondering if you could clue me in on the flaky ignition switch and harness assembly that way
in case it is not the battery I could go right onto the other. What do you mean when you say "flaky"? And how do I find out if it is? same goes for the harness assembly?

At first I thought it was the shifter because the button wouldn't depress after replacing it I found out it wasn't because it didn't solve anything...wonder if I can get my money back or should I just hold off because it may be part of the problem?

Thank you,
kfriendzy

[BNaylor]

As it gets old the ignition switch contacts carbon up causing arcing and a loss of 12 volts to key circuits and relays related to ignition and accessories. It feeds 12 volts to the BTSI shift interlock solenoid you are having problems with on the center console to include other areas you are having problems with.

With GM wiring diagrams you could troubleshoot the circuits to prove the igntion switch is bad. However, the battery should be good and up to charge first.

[kfriendzy]

The battery tests good but when we hook up the positive cable it arcs, should it be doing that? if not, why is it?

Thank You,
kfriendzy

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by kfriendzy

The battery tests good but when we hook up the positive cable it arcs, should it be doing that? if not, why is it?

Thank You,
kfriendzy

It depends. If your negative cable is connected before the positive then you may see an arc when you connect the battery positive cable. Thats why it is recommended to connect the positive first then the negative last.