FAQ for SRT-4. MUST READ!

Turbodog97 · #1 09-04-2006, 05:38 PM

FAQ For the 03-05 SRT-4

Factory related problems:
1) Brake Line Relocation:

There is a small brake line(electrical) that runs underneath the clutch pedal that needs to be relocated. Over time, what will happen, is that the clutch arm will completely cut through the electrical line and cut the power off to yours brakes. It’s a small tab that needs to be snapped out of the carpet, disconnected from the white box ontop of the brake pedal, relocated the wires to being infront of the clutch pedal(but at the same time out of the way), and then reconnect the harness. It takes a minuet for the harness to click back into place but it will go in, don’t worry.

2) Clutch Line Relocation:

On some(most), srt’s the clutch line needs to be relocated. Dodge snapped into the chasis with a piece of plastic when it was supposed to utilize the battery tray nut. Click here for the "How to".

3) Loose Sunroof Pins:

The pins on the sunroof. Some, if no most, have loose pins that hold the sunroof into place. Open the sunroof all the way and look along the side of it. If you see any pins sticking out of the side be sure to push them back in with some sort of small metallic(or hard) object. I used the head of a screw driver.

4) Boost leaks:

Most likely the worse problems with these cars. A stock srt should spike and hold around 14 psi and a s1 car around 16 psi(hold); s2 and 3 being adjustable. If you are not getting these numbers then you most likely have a leak...There are 5 clamp points that need to be tightened. Besides just tightening them there are more practical things you can do also...One is using more than one crappy clamp(the screw in style) to hold in the boost. Another, more efficient and preffered method is to use something called T-bolt clamps which will never loosen over time like the other style will. You can find these at various car performance shops(ie modern performance) or NAPA for around 2-3 dollars a clamp.

5) Vacuum leaks:

Not as much of a problem but still an issue, these cars tend to loose a lot of air in various places besides the clamped points. One thing you can do is purchase a bag of zipties and very small clamps(ones that can fit your finger like a ring). Pull off you intake and ziptie every vacuum connection point you see. There should be around 20-25 points int total...And with the mini-clamps, clamp the lines that come off of the throttle body(not through the pcv) system but through the vacuum part; they should be thick black lines.

6) Oil blow by:

You need a catch can! The pcv system in these cars create a lot of blow by and will eventually fill up you intercooler piping/intercooler so much with oil the system most likely won’t even operate. Follow this link for a how to on building one. Also installing a check valve(preferably made by John a Ptp) will keep down some boost leaks, blow by amount.

Q: Best performance upgrade paths:
A: Really it depends on power but here are a few example setups that achieve you different levels of power for your srt-4.

Level one(320+tq) stock turbo

S1 or S0 pcm
Mapclamp or safc(safc preferred for tunability)
Return line or fpr mod
Big FMIC
2.5+ exhaust or dumped
WGA with 20+psi
A/f’s around 11.0+

Level two(350+tq) stock turbo
Same as above with addition of

Water injection(or methanol or alcohol)
Intercooler sprayer
A/f’s around 12.0

Now for upgraded turbos:
Q: What will fit the srt’s manifold?
A: Nothing because how the turbo is integrated into the manifold.

Q: Then what is involved in a new turbo swap?
A: New oil line, coolant line, manifold, turbo, bov, intake, and potentially coolant overflow container location.

Q: What’s the best turbo to use?
A: Well there are many different types that can be used, it all really depends on the power you are looking to make...

You have the:

16g-not as commonly used but can still easily make 350+ horses
20g-a very responsive turbo that can easily lead you into the 400+ range
50 trim-Is the most common turbo for the srt, once again good for 400+
60 trim-Has a long spool time but once spooled can make a lot of power, not a very common turbo to use on the A853
gt’s and bb’s-For the people trying to make some serious numbers, costs more but results are definitely worth it.

Cheap or free mods:
1) Cutting the scoop:

Remove the black scoop from the hood by the two bolts located on the bottom(underneath) part of the hood. Pull out scoop and cut it in half(with a saw or whatever you have)-parellel to the scoop. This allows more air to enter the engine because the stock scoop wasn't designed very well. Also lowers under hood temps.

2) Lowering antenna:

Screw the antenna off, and about 8-10inches from the bottom, cut(with a jigsaw or circular saw) it off. Next pull the little ball off the top with a pair of pliers or something like pliers. Put a small amount of super glue inside the ball and stick it on the smaller section you cut off. At this point, you can either put it back on as is, or you can paint it(like I did mine). And don't worry, reception works just as good.

3) Polishing intake manifold and/or valve cover:

Use some 100 grit sand paper and Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. Just sand a layer, and then use some polish, sand and then polish, etc. etc. etc. It will take some time(in total took me around 2 months of going outside for about 30 mins. a day sanding/polishing) but it looks good when you finally get it to have a mirror shine. Be careful if you use a dremmel, you can screw it up really easily. Also watch out for your radiator hose and map sensor wires, you don't want to mess any of that up!

4) Painting coil pack like msd unit:

I was tired of my stock coil pack faiding and peeling and basically looking like crap...So one thing to do is to paint it. I just used a high temp. RED paint. You will want to mildly(and I mean MILDLY) sand the coil pack to give it a good surface for the paint to stick on. Primering is optional. I applied about 3-4 coats of paint and 1-2 coats of clear. Give about 30 mins. of drytime before touching, and a few hours before reinstalling into car.

Common Questions:

What type of turbo do I have?
-A Mitsubishi, TD04 15g.

What should my stock boost be(pcm controlled)?
-For most applications, between 14-15 psi.

What is the most boost I can run without pulling timing?
-18.25psi

What is the differences between the 03's and the 04-05's?
-The 04-05 have the s1 injectors and lsd. But don't let those two things fool you, all the years have very similiar 1/4 mile times.

Where is my BOV(or bypass valve more accurately) located?
-It is located on the turbo itself, for the most efficiency. It is a small triangular looking device with a pink line hooked into the side of it.

What are the stock injector sizes?
- 03's are:
04-05's are: 577cc

Useful websites:

Performance

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