ABS Speed sensor harness

[johnschmitt]

Hello all.

I've replaced both front hub/bearing assemblies and I'm still getting a left front wheel speed sensor code. (The bearings were bad anyway so it wasn't a waste) I've narrowed it down to an open circuit somewhere between that speed sensor and the control module, likely around where the wires bend when the wheel turns. Problem is the dealer doesn't sell the pigtail I can splice in there. Just the whole deal that goes to all 4 wheels for $170. And I'm not running all that cable for one wheel if I don't have to.

So my question is...

Is there a reason I couldn't splice a working junkyard part in there? I'm not sure how sensitive the system is since the dealer calls it a "non- servicable harness." It looks to me like it's just a pair of 16 gage wires that carries an ac current that varies based on what the speed sensor does. So if we have any techs lurking or if anybody knows anything it would be nice to have anti-lock brakes again.

Thanks a lot.

edit: sorry, for those of you who are wondering it's a 99 LS.

[abaird]

Here's what I did. Worked on a cavalier the other day that every time the steering wheel turned all the way to the right the ABS light would come on for that drive cycle. Took an ohm meter and watched resistance at the sensor as someone turned the wheel. Sure enough, the wire opened when turned all the way to the right. I was lucky because the wire was bad a couple inches from the sensor. I could splice in a new piece of wire with a new terminal end. But it had to be the same type of wire, so answering your question, yes you can use a known good used part to replace this but make sure it is the same. The wires need to be twisted the way they came form the factory.

[johnschmitt]

Well that's good news. You described the problem exactly, except for the cavalier part of course. When splicing, end-to-end solder joints with shrink tubing or electrical tape is fine, yes?

[abaird]

That's what I did.

[rhandwor]

The big problems with repairing wiring is dirt and moisture. I would check with some junk yards I got one for a GMC pickup for a couple dollars. This is not a big seller. Check the plug and length probably the piece would from other GM vehicles would work.
I usuallly call 4 or 5 and check prices.

[sreve]

they do sell a pig tail kit but you don't wan it. $135us likely the problem is where the lower control arm meets the frame. non-insulated crimp connectors and shrink tube will work. tape unlikely to seal out water over the long haul.

[richtazz]

The $135 part is the entire harness from the main vehicle harness to the wheel. The actual end that plugs into the hub connector is AC-Delco part number PT1357 (GM#15306302) and runs $24.60 dealer retail. The other end of the jumper harness where it hooks to the vehicle's main harness is not available separately.

[johnschmitt]

The $135 part is the entire harness from the main vehicle harness to the wheel. The actual end that plugs into the hub connector is AC-Delco part number PT1357 (GM#15306302) and runs $24.60 dealer retail. The other end of the jumper harness where it hooks to the vehicle's main harness is not available separately.

We have a winner. I saw this post pretty much around the time I got tired of calling salvage yards and discovering A. they don't know what I'm talking about, B. they don't have it, or C. I'm in parkville and they're on the exact opposite side of I-695.

There wasn't a whole lot of slack wire on there, but it got me to the inside end of the control arm which was enough apparently. No ABS light and the car doesn't think the left front wheel's locked up and bleed off all the pressure anymore. (it used to do that until it realized the wheel was actually turning and disabled the abs)

Thanks for the help, particularly the part number. The dealer guys aren't what I would call good at cross referencing common parts among common vehicles.