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#1
08-26-2002, 10:46 AM
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VTEC activation
last night i finished my "mini-me" swap.. d16z6 head onto d15b2 block. to make a long story short, the head works fine but i havent gotten VTEC hooked up right yet. there are two wire bosses on the vtec selenoid. one is for activation and the other is for oil pressure correct? well my brother and i tried to hook a direct toggle up to the VTEC and we could hear the selenoid clicking when we turned it on but no VTEC.
can somebody please steer me in the right direction as to the specifics of VTEC activation such as oil pressure and wiring diagrams for the selenoid? 
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#2
08-26-2002, 11:01 PM
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Follow the wiring from the solenoid to the harness connector under the hood...I'll bet that on the other side of that connector you will not find the wires that you were originally following...dead end...you will probably have to run wires to the computer.
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#3
08-27-2002, 11:41 PM
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in order to make the vtec engage you have to have the right oil pressure and RPM.
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Power is nothing without control The fastest driver is the one with skills 95 Civic EX 83 Toyota Starlet 07 Ducati Monster S4RS
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#4
08-29-2002, 04:08 AM
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i sure hope a new ecu was part of this swap, otherwise you are going to to get nowhere. if it was, then check for how-to's on how to do a frankenstein setup for a more common swap. that should lead you in the right direction.
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#5
08-29-2002, 12:22 PM
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you dont have to use the VTEC ECU. you can just as easily get an aftermarket VTEC controller or RPM activated switch.
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#6
08-30-2002, 04:35 AM
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Here is some info, that might be helpful...
http://www.geocities.com/chipman_13/....html#vtec-act "Noth'in like Induction..." 
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88' CRX Si - JRSC @ 6psi Z6 Mini-Me, JDM SiR Conversion NOS #5122, JR Liquid InterCooling System ZYDNE SECU, 450's B&M FP Set, B&M Command Flo AutoMeter - Phantom FP, A/F, N2O, Boost gauges & pods, ARP HSKit, AEM Pads, 87' HF Drums, DYI CAI
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#7
08-31-2002, 06:11 PM
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you need a new ecu, not only to get the vtec to activate, but to have the engine run properly once it is activated. the reason more power is made is because there is more air and fuel being allowed into the motor. the old ecu is not going to have a fuel map for this new setup it is being forced to work with. this leads to problems of ill-proportioned fuel and gas. a vtec controller piggybacks off the ecu, meaning it needs the ecu to know how to activate vtec so that the controller can tell it when to do it.
plus you have the problem of a new redline. with out getting the new ecu, your redline will still be at the original place. you will not be able to rev any higher making it impossible to enjoy what you worked so hard to get. without a computer that knows how to do what you want it to do, you wont be able to enjoy vtec. a controller only tells the computer when to change to pressure for the solenoid, not how to change the pressure for the solenoid. get a new ecu.
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#8
09-03-2002, 04:21 AM
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All the major changes are in the "timing" maps, with very few in the fuel maps. Sooo, the fuel maps are really not an issue, as long as you compensate...
"Noth'in like Induction..."
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88' CRX Si - JRSC @ 6psi Z6 Mini-Me, JDM SiR Conversion NOS #5122, JR Liquid InterCooling System ZYDNE SECU, 450's B&M FP Set, B&M Command Flo AutoMeter - Phantom FP, A/F, N2O, Boost gauges & pods, ARP HSKit, AEM Pads, 87' HF Drums, DYI CAI
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#9
09-06-2002, 12:50 AM
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as long as you realize you need a new ecu i will let you pick apart my posts. plus i learn a little also, so win-win for me.
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