Drive Train Vibration

[EA6BMECH]

As my truck gets more miles and it only has 17K/'05 it has a vibration inthe drivetrain from 50 to a little over 60mph then seems to dissappear. Don't thinkk its the tires cause I rotated them and stayed exactly the same. Not gear related cause I've done it in different gears. Hesitate to bring it in cause a Chey mech might not notice it because that's what they're use to....know what I mean?? Another buddy of mine has the same truck and his does it. He doesn't notice it....go figure. I guess that's what happens to me driving mostly Jap vehicles. They're much tighter.

[Blue Bowtie]

I'd suggest you return it to the dealership and report the problem. Even if they find nothing, you have a record of a reported problem. That may extend your warranty coverage if something occurs after the normal warranty expires. If you reported it within warranty, they should be required to repair it under warranty.

All these reports of problems are also what drives the TSB system, and causes further examination of common problems by GM. If something is discovered to be a common problem, but not sufficient to mandate a recall, a Technical Service Bulletin is issued, and your complaint should result in a free repair so long as you reported it within the warranty period.

There have been some problems with shudder caused by the transfer cases and the aluminum matrix core within driveshafts shifting, and nothing is externally apparent. You may want to advise your friend to do the same. Most dealerships really WANT to help, since they get paid by corporate for any warranty work.

[silverado122775]

It may be a U-joint problem too. It may be minor right now, only being noticed at those speeds.

[guumbah]

If it does it at the same speed, regardless of gear, that eliminates it being tied to rpms or transmission. It would have to be somewhere in the driveline past that point (driveshafts, rear end, tires/wheels) or something aerodynamic. Get it up over 70, drop it in neutral and coast back down to the speed range where it occurs and you could prove this.

How severe is it if your buddy doesn't even notice it in his own truck? I know every creak and shudder mine does. My wife always makes fun of me because any little change or new noise, and I suddenly interrupt the conversation with "What's that? Did you hear that?".

[EA6BMECH]

Originally Posted by guumbah

If it does it at the same speed, regardless of gear, that eliminates it being tied to rpms or transmission. It would have to be somewhere in the driveline past that point (driveshafts, rear end, tires/wheels) or something aerodynamic. Get it up over 70, drop it in neutral and coast back down to the speed range where it occurs and you could prove this.

How severe is it if your buddy doesn't even notice it in his own truck? I know every creak and shudder mine does. My wife always makes fun of me because any little change or new noise, and I suddenly interrupt the conversation with "What's that? Did you hear that?".

Haha!! ya man I'm the same way with all my vehicles. I'm very in tune with them when I'm driving. My wife....forget it!! 10-4, I should have popped it out of gear and tried that. Well my buddy I don't think is in tune with his vehicles. I might see if I can take it for a spin again. He's got about 25K on his now. I've already had it in for that service 4WD light. Something in the front end needed replacement. Can't think of the name of the item.

[bobboinge]

I have a vibration between 55 to 70 mph. I remember last winter I had 400lbs of sand over the rear axle and the vib was a little less, then I unloaded it and it was back to normal vibration. I can actually feel the vibration starting about 25 and getting worse as I near the 55 mark. Changed tires out, went thru drive shafts, checked rotors and now I'm leaning toward the rear diff.

[EA6BMECH]

Boards are a good thing!!! Here's what a buddy of mine found for me. Describes my problem to a T!!

2005 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD


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Subject: Growl or Moan Noise coming from Front Axle (Replace Front Axle Differential Case) #03-04-19-004B - (12/12/2005)



Models: 2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2003-2006 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL

with 4WD and Active Transfer Case (RPO NP8) and 8.25 Inch Front Axle


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This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-04-19-004A (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).


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Condition
Some customers may comment on a growl or moan-type noise coming from the front axle above 50 km/h (30 mph). This condition may be described as a noise that phases or cycles in and out. This noise is present in the 2WD mode only, and may be present whether the vehicle is accelerating, decelerating, or at a steady speed. The noise goes away in 4WD or Auto 4WD modes.

Cause
This noise may be caused by a low clearance condition within the differential in the front axle assembly. In the 2WD mode, the front differential has a large amount of relative motion between the differential pinion and side gears. In the 4WD or Auto 4WD modes, the transfer case motors the front propeller shaft, and the relative motion between the differential gears is reduced or eliminated, so the noise is eliminated.

Correction
Replace the front differential case, P/N 26018131. This is the component bolted to the ring gear. It is NOT necessary to replace the differential gears unless unusual wear is observed. Use the procedure listed below.

Raise the vehicle.
Remove the front engine protection shield. Refer to Engine Protection Shield Replacement in the Frame and Underbody sub-section of the Service Manual.
Drain the differential carrier assembly.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the actuator and wire harness from the right inner axle shaft housing and differential carrier.
Remove the right wheel driveshaft inboard flange bolts from the inner axle shaft.
Disconnect the right wheel driveshaft from the inner axle shaft.
Remove the inner axle shaft housing nuts from the bracket.
Remove the inner axle shaft housing bolts from the differential carrier assembly.
Carefully remove the inner axle shaft housing assembly from the differential carrier.
Remove the left wheel driveshaft inboard flange bolts from the inner axle shaft.
Remove the left inner axle shaft from the differential carrier assembly.
Remove the front drive axle clutch shaft from the differential carrier assembly.
Remove the differential carrier assembly bolts.
Separate the right carrier case half from the left carrier case half.
Remove the differential case assembly from the carrier.
Place the differential case in a vise.



Remove the differential side bearings using the J 22888-20A.
Remove the differential case from the vise.
Important: The ring gear bolts have left-hand threads.

Remove the ring gear bolts.
Remove the ring gear from the differential case. Drive the ring gear off with a brass drift if necessary.
Remove the pinion shaft pin. Use a hammer and a drift pin in order to drive out the pin.
Remove the pinion shaft.
Roll the differential pinion gears out of the case with the pinion gear thrust washers.
Remove the differential side gears and the side gear thrust washers. Mark the pinion gears and thrust washers top and bottom and the differential side gears and thrust washers left and right.
Lubricate the pinion and side gears using axle lubricant. Use the proper fluid. Refer to the Maintenance and Lubrication subsection.
Install the differential side gear thrust washers to the differential side gears.
Install the differential side gears and thrust washers into the new differential case.
Install the differential pinion gears and thrust washers by performing the following steps:
28.1. Position one pinion gear between the differential side gears.

28.2. Position the second pinion gear between the differential side gear directly opposite of the first gear.

28.3. Rotate the differential side gears until the pinion gears are directly opposite the opening in the differential case.

28.4. Install the thrust washers. Rotate the pinion gears toward the differential case opening in order to permit the sliding in of the thrust washers.

Install the pinion gear shaft.
Install the pinion gear shaft lock pin using a hammer and a brass drift.
Important: The mating surface of the ring gear and the differential case must be clean and free of burrs before installing the ring gear.

Install the ring gear onto the differential case.
Install the ring gear bolts. Hand start each bolt to ensure that the ring gear is properly seated to the differential case.
Tighten the ring gear bolts. Tighten the ring gear bolts alternately and in stages, gradually pulling the ring gear onto the differential case.
Tighten
Tighten the ring gear bolts in sequence to 120 N•m (88 lb ft).


Install the differential side bearings by performing the following steps:
34.1. In order to protect the differential case, install the J 8107-2 in the case on the side opposite the bearing installation.

34.2. Install the J 22761 (2) and the J 8092 (1) onto the differential case bearing as shown.

34.3. Drive the differential case bearing onto the case using the J 22761 and the J 8092.

Install the new differential case assembly into the carrier.
Clean the sealing surface of each half of the differential carrier case and the inner axle housing to differential carrier assembly. The surfaces must be clean of all grease and oil.
Apply a bead of sealer, P/N 1052942 (Canadian P/N 10953466), or equivalent, to one differential carrier case half sealing surface.
Install the right differential carrier case half.
Install the differential carrier case bolts
Tighten
Tighten the differential carrier case bolts to 47 N•m (35 lb ft).

Install the front drive axle clutch shaft to the differential carrier.
Install the left side inner axle shaft by doing the following steps:
41.1. Install the left side inner shaft into the differential carrier assembly until the inner shaft is seated against the differential side gear.

41.2. While holding the inner shaft against the differential side gear, turn the inner shaft in order to align the splines of the inner shaft with the splines on the differential side gear.

41.3. Drive the inner into the differential case side gear using a soft-faced mallet until the retaining ring on the inner shaft is fully seated within the groove in the differential case side gear. Pull back on the inner shaft to ensure that the inner shaft is properly retained in the differential case side gear.

Apply sealant, P/N 1052942 (Canadian P/N 10953466), or equivalent, to the inner axle housing to differential carrier sealing surface.
Install the right inner axle shaft housing assembly to the differential carrier assembly.
Install the inner axle shaft housing bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the inner axle shaft housing bolts to 40 N•m (30 lb ft).

Install the inner axle shaft housing washers and nuts to the bracket.
Tighten
Tighten the inner axle shaft housing nuts to 100 N•m (75 lb ft).

Connect the wheel drive shaft inboard flange to the inner axle shaft.
Install the wheel drive shaft inboard flange to the inner axle shaft bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel drive shaft inboard flange to the inner axle shaft bolts to 79 N•m (58 lb ft).

Connect the wire harness to the inner axle shaft housing and differential carrier.
Connect the electrical connector to the front axle actuator.
Fill the differential carrier assembly with axle lubricant. Use the proper fluid. Refer to Lubricant Replacement -- Front Drive Axle in the Front Axle sub-section of the Service Manual.
Install the front engine protection shield. Refer to Engine Protection Shield Replacement in the Frame and Underbody sub-section of the service manual.
Lower the vehicle.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description

26018131
Case, Front Differential

[EA6BMECH]

Well hears an update to my problem of the vibrations.Chevy got it up on the rack and discovered that the drive shaft was slightly bent! I about crapped all over myself..............the biggest reason, I have to pay for it! There is a mark on the drive shaft and on the cross member like it came up and smacked it!! How it happened I don't know and I'm not considering the boys, they would have told me...really!! they would have. Now to try and find a shaft and Ujoints and do the deed myself. I can't find crap for a drive shaft on this truck except for the front shafts. Anybody know short of the dealer where I can get a drive shaft at a good price? And yes, I'm gonna call the junk yard.

PS. If you can get the rear end up and chock the front wheels, put it in gear, you can see the shaft has a slight wobble. Ya can't miss it.

[isie]

see if you have a truck center (semi, Here i went to Midway truck center) there guy built me a new drive shaft and joints for $145 turned my 2 piece to a one piece. he balanced it and it works great, only took him 3 days.

[EA6BMECH]

Update:

Well Ive come to the conclusion that I haven't done anything to the truck to harm it. If the shaft was bent, it was bent when I bought it. I disconnected the drive shaft and raised it to where it was "suppose" to have hit the cross member. The mark is about 3" off the shaft mark and in order for the shaft to hit it, the rear end would have to go through the bed of the truck. Plus there is a shield towards the rear above the differential and the bolt holding it on would have had to hit it at the same time.

I brought it to a GM dealer that did feel the vib but because there was a Chevy dealer just down the street he couldn't do the warranty work. The Chevy dealer said they didn't feel any vibrations, but said the front hub bearings felt a little loose. They changed them. No luck. Then after a discussion with the Service manager, he looked the drive shaft over and I think there was a bulliten that allowed them to change it out. I thought this was the end of my problems........NOT. It was as bad if not worse. The 2nd Chevy dealer were pretty good sports about trying to help me out, but it's the dealer I bought it from that got me P'd off.

Anyhoo, I called Chevy customer care and they have been pretty good about looking into my issue. I talked to them today, got right through and they are on it. I'll keep ya all updated as things go on. As you can tell, it's been over a year and the warranty ran out about 1500 miles ago.

[silverado122775]

Has this vibration always been there since you bought it? Did you buy the truck new?

I am surprised that fixing the bent drive did not fix the problem.
I know you said that the tires may not be the cause. But how were they balanced? I get a vibration in the truck, and I am almost certain it is the tires. I learned that there are 2-ways of balancing tires. Center mount and lug mount. Have the dealer lug mount the tires and re-balance them. It is worth a shot.

[Fireguy_joe]

I just bought a used 2500HD and it was doing the same thing... the dealership replaced a rear U-Joint and Carrier Bearing, and the vibration was gone. Something worth checking I suppose.