Tapping after header install...

[poormillionaire2]

I know something like this has been posted before, but I don't know how specific it was.
I just installed LT headers on my car and now, when I am driving, there is a tapping noise coming from what sounds like the driver's side of the engine bay. It might be something rattling and not a big deal. But I just want to hear what you guys think. There's no y-pipe connected to then yet either.

[blindeyed]

That happened to my friend as well. Turned out to be the little metal heat shield for his spark plug boot was tapping against the header, I guess he took his wires off to make it a little easier and just didn't fasten tham back on good. Could also be the dipstick tube too if that's not tightened down all the way to the bolt that holds it up to the block. Look around for small misc. things like that.

[FormulaLT1]

Have everything connected first but tapping can be a gasket leak.

[poormillionaire2]

Originally Posted by FormulaLT1

Have everything connected first but tapping can be a gasket leak.

Shit, don't tell me that...
How do I know for sure that it is a gasket leak?
And
Is there a way to fix it without taking everything out again?

Oh yeah, I only hear it when I get on it too.

[FormulaLT1]

Originally Posted by poormillionaire2

Shit, don't tell me that...
How do I know for sure that it is a gasket leak?
And
Is there a way to fix it without taking everything out again?

Oh yeah, I only hear it when I get on it too.

You used metal gaskets right?

[poormillionaire2]

Yep, with a little copper gasket sealer...

[FormulaLT1]

should just need a little tightening then once everything is in place. I wouldn't worry too much about it til you got the rest connected.

[poormillionaire2]

You mean, just tighten the header bolts?

[FormulaLT1]

Originally Posted by poormillionaire2

You mean, just tighten the header bolts?

Yup, the heat causes stuff to expand the paint to flake off, so for the first few weeks at least you might want to occasionally check to make sure they are all tight.

[thermal izod]

my manifold on the rear of the driver's side of the clock did the same thing after my rebuild. Just torque those bolts, if it stops, u got it, might happen 3-4 more times until u get it knocked out.