Is there away of lubing the Strut Bearings

[Rolm]

The strut bearings are making a noise when turning sharp during parking. Is there a way of drilling a small hole and shuting some lube in there. Hate to replace the suckers

[BNaylor]

Based on the way it is designed I seriously doubt it. Best thing to do is remove the strut and dismantle it to get to the upper mount/load bearing.

On this one below which was noisy, the load bearing appeared to be in good shape so I used special silicone grease to lube it. Problem solved and installed a new strut.

[panzer dragoon]

2000 : OLDSMOBILE : INTRIGUE : 3.5L 214 cubic inch V6 FI (H) : Suspension : Strut Bearing View Advice

MONROE Part # 902968
REAR; Sedan; Right Units {STRUT-MATE BEARING PLATE}
$18.49 $0.00 $18.49

MONROE Part # 902969
REAR; Sedan; Left Units {STRUT-MATE BEARING PLATE}
$18.49 $0.00 $18.49

These bearings are cheap to replace. I you want to try to drill a hole and zerk (grease fitting) it go ahead and try. Zerk fittings are < .50 a piece. With thin guage steel you may need to reinforce the zerk with solder or something.

$5.00 for a box of 32.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by panzer dragoon

These bearings are cheap to replace. I you want to try to drill a hole and zerk (grease fitting) it go ahead and try. Zerk fittings are < .50 a piece. With thin guage steel you may need to reinforce the zerk with solder or something.

Adding this so called grease fitting. Is this in theory or have you actually done one? I would not recommend it.

All I would agree with is to replace the upper strut mount/load bearing when in doubt.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by panzer dragoon

These bearings are cheap to replace. I you want to try to drill a hole and zerk (grease fitting) it go ahead and try. Zerk fittings are < .50 a piece. With thin guage steel you may need to reinforce the zerk with solder or something.

$5.00 for a box of 32.

Putting a grease zerk in it would be like putting a sock on a roaster.
If it is making a noise it is bad. Replace it.
MT

[panzer dragoon]

I've seen some ball joints that had pretty thin metal and were zerked. But why zerk a bearing that is already bad? and just going to get worse. May need a few spot welds to hold that zerk in properly.

May need an angle drill just to get to it. Better off taking the piece off = and if you are going to do that why not just replace the bearing with a new one.

If I was gonna drill a hole in it I would definately zerk it just to keep air/moisture out.

My 78 Dodge 4x4 had non-tapered roller bearings in the Dana 44 (older style) front that had a zerk thru the hub. I always thought that was the way to go for 4x4, but then you need to grease every 10k miles or so. The non-tapered bearings were very stiff and would take monstrous hits with no problems. Without greasing the non-tapered bearings regularly, they would burn up fast and seize = something I learned the hard way. Older style PowerWagons (PW300) had these non-tapered bearings with zerks also.

It's often much more work and harder taking the cheap route (zerking a crappy bearing) than just replacement.

[Rolm]

Well I did drill holes from the top into the bearing, I think I drill into the bearing area I also squirted oil into the holes Result no change.

Next question

Can the strut and spring be removed as a unit with-out the need of a spring compressor. I just want to replace the strut bearings.

[BNaylor]

Do you mean as far as taking it off the car? The complete strut assembly can be removed as a unit. After it is removed then you'll neeed the strut coil spring compressor to replace the upper strut mount/load bearing.

[Rolm]

Originally Posted by bnaylor

Do you mean as far as taking it off the car? The complete strut assembly can be removed as a unit. After it is removed then you'll neeed the strut coil spring compressor to replace the upper strut mount/load bearing.

I guess I will leave the job to a pro. I will not mess around with springs. Thanks for the info.