Drivers side window only works 1/2 the time

[bgblockcamaro]

Okay, have read some of the threads about the drivers side window only working for a second then quitting then a few minutes later it will work some more, but just for a second then quit again. Only problem is no one ever posted the solution. Do i need to just change the moter or is it a wiring problem or the switch?

[ericn1300]

Originally Posted by bgblockcamaro

Okay, have read some of the threads about the drivers side window only working for a second then quitting then a few minutes later it will work some more, but just for a second then quit again. Only problem is no one ever posted the solution. Do i need to just change the moter or is it a wiring problem or the switch?

unlikely that it's a wiring problem, probably a motor but check the window mechanism first. the motor stops when it meets resistance when driving the window. once the window is all the way up or down the resistance stops the motor. if there is a bind in the window mechanism it can cause the the motor to stop when it finds the bind causing resistance making it "think" the window is all the way up. check for proper lubrication and adjustments in the window mech before changing the motor. one quick check is to start the window up with the palm of your hand on it pressing upwards to give an assitance past any binds, if it stalls out it's probably from internal resistance such as bad bearings and needs to be replaced.

[bgblockcamaro]

When i try to give the window assistance by pressing upward with the palm of my hand or pulling upwards on it, it still stalls out and sometimes it takes me 30 minutes with 15 different trys to make it all the way up, it only moves about a 1/2 inch at a time, sometimes a little more but not very often. Also it works really well whenever i first start the car in the morning, but not every time i start the car just when its been sitting a while.

[Chris Stewart]

What year Bravada?

[bgblockcamaro]

i have a 94 bravada

[Silver39]

I have been having the same problem with my '94, took the end of the motor cap off and cleaned up everything inside, including soldering around the "safety switch", after much struggle was able to re-assemble the brush's into it and still had the problem, went to local yard and was able to try a replacement door switch assembly with the same results, I guess my next test will to go out and tear it apart again and try some wire direct from the battery pos and neg and see how the motor acts then, should pretty well exclude the motor or the wiring, just have to make the time, thank heavens it isn't crappy weather yet.....

[Chris Stewart]

I'm very sorry you're still having trouble with yours Silver39.
The bi-metal circuit breaker doesn't take solder good, that's why the piece of wire soldered in was necessary. What you describe looks like the circuit breaker is still part of the circuit. I used rosin core solder.
I had mine apart twice to fix the thing and the 2nd time was easier. If you have time, you might try again.
Mine's still working and is currently the wife's primary vehicle...189k now.

Here's the electric window post Silver39 started:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=593118

[bgblockcamaro]

Are bravada's known to have wiring problems? Every problem I have had with mine has been wiring, the windishield wiper moter needed a ground, my ac had bad wiring, my seat adjustments was bad wiring, my door moter and door locks seem to be bad wiring, is this a common thing with bravadas?

[Chris Stewart]

My '92 has no bad wiring except for the now bypassed drivers window circuit breaker. The rest is completely stock...radio and all.
My '97 had a shorted lumbar support which affected everything else in the same module circuit...interior lights & door locks operating by themselves.
Problem went away when I disconnected the lumbar support wiring connector after setting it in a good position. The rest is completely stock...radio and all.
Of course both are in Tennessee where there's hardly any snow and road salt.

[ericn1300]

by-passing the circuit breaker works, but can cause the motor to burn out. never a good idea to by-pass circuit breakers anyway. a new motor only costs about $40.

i haven't had any wiring problems on my '92 at all so far, but i don't have power seats.

[Silver39]

As the above poster stated, it is only 40 bucks for a new motor (still hard to part with on a fixed income for this old man) but I parted with it yesterday and changed out the motor and all is fine now. But I pray I NEVER have to do that again, all 7 rivets "spun" while trying to drill them out, using the so-called correct drill bit called for in the GM Manual (4 held the assy in place and 3 holding motor to lift assy) and then finding the proper bolts to replace everything, trying to interpret where to drill to "jam" the lift mechanism to prevent the heavy spring pressure from relieving itself onto my hands or arms was difficult. but, it works again and all is fine.......

[ericn1300]

Glad all is fine.

Kinda late now i know, but i have a 1/4" "garbage chisle" that i use to wedge rivets in place while i drill them out. I pound it in under the lip until it holds the rivit in place while i drill it out