i have to make a big decision and i hate it...

[figo_madrid04]

So here is the deal.

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by figo_madrid04

So here is the deal.
I took the car to DAS AUTO close to Baltimore, they told me a series of problems that need to be addressed in order for the car to run properly again.

First of all , i had my car with a really bad commercial mechanic that did nothing but take my car apart do a head job and put everything back together and made things even worst.....

so i now per Das Auto i have a leak from my lower intake manifold
and i also have to change my coil pack connections which ive already gotten.

there is a knocking noise from the front passengers side like under the oil cap that ive been told that my cam advancer somthing or other is either broken or isn't set properly???????

plus im pretty sure the timing is not set right since the mechanic that worked on it before didn't know a damn thing about Z's so i guess that contributes to the overall poor running quality.

also i have an oil pressure problem. when the engine is cold the pressure is fine its at like 50 then when the car funs and warms up it drops to 25 and slowly drops as it works for longer. So after like 20 minutes it sits at 10 at idle and like 25 at 3000 rpm.
per DAS Auto this is because of the expansion of my crank somthing... i think the bearing of somthing .......... that expands and the gap is too big so the oil pressure drops and doesn't reach parts of the head promoting knocking noises?????? does that sound right?????????

now about the soluiton...... Das Auto wants me to replace the whole short block right from the start........ I dont want to do that....... I prefer to fix the timing, the cam advanced (somthing???) , and the vaccum leak , and tackle the oil pressure prob with some 10w50 or somthing ..... ( this oil pressure is on a stock gauge that works fine, with no dings in the oil pan, and without a faulty send unit)

Im just completly dumbfounded ..... ..... i dont wanna make a decision of changing the short block (3000) when it could be a simpler problem .... idk,
guys im just really sad and frustrated about the whole thing. i really just need some help anyone willing to take a look at my car or give me some good advice please call me at 240 505 3403 or email me at [email protected] I live in MD.

any input is appreciated

dude...do a search on twinturbo.net for "yugobernie". email him all your problems and let him work on your car. he is a stand up guy that is a walking encyclopedia of Z knowledge.

the sad thing is that if all these problems arent made up out of thin air and they are actually the problems with the motor. the cheapest and best route would be to rebuild/replace the motor. you can get your long block rebuilt back to stock for less than $3k and be guaranteed a quality motor or you can buy a JDM motor and take your chances but save half of your money. there are many choices...or you can just get the short block rebuilt for under $2k.

good luck but it truly does sound like the best option for you would be to rip the motor out and start from scratch.

[figo_madrid04]

in regards to Bernie , i have sent him alot of info, he is a very busy man, has lots of proir arrangements.

where can i get my short block rebuild for under 2k, my head is completly new , i doubt there was a problem in the rebuild of the head since it was done at a pro head shop.

DAS auto is telling me 3500 for a rebuilt shortblock and labor charges ......

I really dont know what to do , if i change the short black and with this new head ....and i still have the same problem and i find out it was a faulty injector or something of that sort..... then im screwed.......

then again when they take the motor apart they will know if the injectors are bad ?? right?.....

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by figo_madrid04

in regards to Bernie , i have sent him alot of info, he is a very busy man, has lots of proir arrangements.

where can i get my short block rebuild for under 2k, my head is completly new , i doubt there was a problem in the rebuild of the head since it was done at a pro head shop.

DAS auto is telling me 3500 for a rebuilt shortblock and labor charges ......

I really dont know what to do , if i change the short black and with this new head ....and i still have the same problem and i find out it was a faulty injector or something of that sort..... then im screwed.......

then again when they take the motor apart they will know if the injectors are bad ?? right?.....

do an OHM test on the injectors to see if they are faulty.

the first thing you need to do is diagnose the problem by whoever you are having do the work. that way you have some leverage if that wasnt the problem that they fixed.

anywho...check out z1motorsports.com and importpartspro.com both charge right around $3k for a full long block rebuild and id imagine that just the short block would be significantly cheaper. kyle @ importpartspro is an awesome guy and known to be the best VG builder in the country.

but diagnose the problem with your car first...it could be electrical.

[figo_madrid04]

just a quick question cuz i dont know ...... could an electrical problem be the cause of some of the knocking in the engine???

i know that the low oil pressure is somthing else completely, but could fault coil connections be the caue of misfiring and knocking?

thanks

btw im gunna check those sites out , so thanks for the input

[figo_madrid04]

the exact thing that the mechanic said is that i had Crankshaft journals worn and when it got warm/hot the gap would increase = low oil pressure,

now i know this is a possibility , this would be an expensive fix, what other things can i check and try to fix first???

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by figo_madrid04

the exact thing that the mechanic said is that i had Crankshaft journals worn and when it got warm/hot the gap would increase = low oil pressure,

now i know this is a possibility , this would be an expensive fix, what other things can i check and try to fix first???

well that is usually the cause of low oil pressure which is more than likely your problem. if it is for sure a knocking sound coming from the bottom end, which you will know, it is more than likely the rod bearings.

but you also have other problems. beings the heads are freshly rebuilt and it seems you trust the rebuild. just get a short block ordered from IPP for $2300 and then send him yours as a core. that $2300 includes forged pistons also but i guess if you dont want the forged pistons he could build it without which could possibly save you another $500.

good luck...make sure your mechanics are trustworthy. id hate to see you spend a fortune replacing something for it to be something else.

as for injectors...run an OHM test. there is a test or a way to troubleshoot just about everything electrical on the car.

good luck. if you can get your car to yugobernie, it would be a wise decision or maybe he can recommend you to a quality shop in your area.

[Kuntry_Boi06]

ima post this here to save on bandwidth, my friend took his newly acquired 300z to a dealership n they offered him 8 grand trade in for it on a sentra spec v, he turned it down, his 300 is N/A btw in good shape has decent paint with a stillen body kit n new rims, but anyways, he turned them down, 2 weeks later he took his car to a shop n they told him he has gay compression and is only layin down 123 horses, which explains his 11.5 second 1/8th mile run... and to top it all off he bought the car for 2 grand with 94k miles and leopord skin interior!! low miles, gay interior..

[figo_madrid04]

Originally Posted by Kuntry_Boi06

ima post this here to save on bandwidth, my friend took his newly acquired 300z to a dealership n they offered him 8 grand trade in for it on a sentra spec v, he turned it down, his 300 is N/A btw in good shape has decent paint with a stillen body kit n new rims, but anyways, he turned them down, 2 weeks later he took his car to a shop n they told him he has gay compression and is only layin down 123 horses, which explains his 11.5 second 1/8th mile run... and to top it all off he bought the car for 2 grand with 94k miles and leopord skin interior!! low miles, gay interior..

Whats the question or comment?

and

What and Where is IPP , Z1 doesn't have a short block rebiuld listed,
2300 with forged pistions isn't bad.......

so how does the core chare work? i pay 2300 they build my shortblock, then they give me some refund after i return the old short block to them???

alot in one post but i really appreciate the help

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by figo_madrid04

Whats the question or comment?

and

What and Where is IPP , Z1 doesn't have a short block rebiuld listed,
2300 with forged pistions isn't bad.......

so how does the core chare work? i pay 2300 they build my shortblock, then they give me some refund after i return the old short block to them???

alot in one post but i really appreciate the help

IPP is in texas. call Z1, they will give you prices and they are a tad closer if you want to go that route. that $2300 probably doesnt include the core charge. you will have to pay the core charge until you give him your short block, then they will refund you the core charge. you can send them them your short block forst to avoid core charges. check closer in your area also...there are alot of Z owners in your area and i doubt they all have their motors built too far away. if you find a quality shop in your area this could save you alot of money on shipping.

[Kuntry_Boi06]

here's my comment
my friends a tard, and good luck with your problem man, sux when this stuff happens, specially if your broke like me.

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by Kuntry_Boi06

here's my comment
my friends a tard, and good luck with your problem man, sux when this stuff happens, specially if you're broke like me.

friggin tard!

[Hodo]

As for your crank expanding when it gets hot and making a larger opening...... that doesnt sound right. I think either you or they got confused. When the crank gets hot its going to expand, yes, BUT it will not create a larger hole but the opposite, it will make a smaller gap to the oil passages. As for the rest of your problems all sound like the top part of your engine was just put together wrong. I dont think anything is to baddly damaged yet. You might just get away with new heads and a new set of main and crank bearings.

Last bit of advice, the Z32 300ZX is becoming a classic car in a few years and finding techs who used to work on them and know them well is going to become damn near impossible in the next few years. So I would suggest learning to work on your car yourself. It will save you alot of money and much more in headaches. And dont give the excuse, "But I dont have the time, to work on my car." you own a 10+ year old car you better find the time or sell it and get a new car with a warrenty.