Door locks don’t work??--I fixed mine!

[Tomb stone]

Door locks don’t work??--I fixed mine!

Thanks to these forums, I finally fixed the inoperative driver and passenger power door locks that have aggravated me for the last 7 months. After reading this thread http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=439893 I decided to give it a try. I got on E-bay and found these actuators (2 each) for $15.00 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8040633371&ru=http%3A% 2F%2Fmotors.search.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3Ffrom%3DR40%2 6satitle%3D8040633371%26fvi%3D1 The dealer wanted over $400.00 to replace the actuators and replacement actuators from Ford were (I think) about $70.00 each.
It took me about half a day to get them both done but it could have gone faster (I'm slow ). Buying replacement actuators from Ford or Auto Zone would have been faster but would have cost me $130.00 more and they are probably the same weak parts that crapped out in the first place. Also, I want to put the least amount of money in this money pit as I can.
I followed the steps in the linc provided on the thread (thanks garync1). The only thing that was different were the wire colors to the locks (I have a 2000 van). But finding the right wires was easy with a volt multi-meter. The door locks now lock and unlock with authority.
I recommend this fix for anyone with lock problems. Especially if you like the personal satisfaction that you just stiffed Ford out of $430.00 and just did the job yourself for $15.00.
I posted this because the original thread is getting buried (its now on page 7-8) and there are many new folks here that are trying to keep their Windstar alive.
TOM

[phil-l]

Thanks for sharing your success story!

[stanman77]

The pictures are great. My repair was on a 98 Windstar with electric windows, but the door frame and wires were a little different. I spliced in at the same place you did but connected the green replacement actuator wire to the red with black striped wire. The blue replacement part wire to the red with orange striped wire. The other two wires in that part of the harness are a black and a black with yellow stripe.

The other difference was that mounting in the locations like you did caused a clearance problem with the plastic moldings on the inner door assembly. I was able to bend the flat bar that holds the actuator and also use some washers on the bottom bolt that holds the window guard in place. Take note that the square holes will need enough clearance to engage the door moldings that allow the interior door surface to slide into place.

Great pictures. Even with the pictures it took me two hours to complete the driver side door. I also found out that I could rotate the interior door panel 90 degrees counter clockwise and set it on a box. This allowed me to keep the door controls connected and test my work as I went along.

Thanks again.

[garync1]

Yes.. Thanks.. Im glad my blog helped... The cost will depend on Ebay or other places that carry the universal actuator. It has been a little while now. My locks
are still working with no problems.. Any one doing this project just keep in mind window clearance. Also make sure you secure them as good as you can. The first one I did I had to go back in and secure it in better. The second one which I used for the Blog, had not had any problems with it at all.. But as you see from the other posts the price for the factory replacement and install can be very high.. I had what maybe less than 20.00 bucks.. for both. Thanks for keeping my post a-live.. Gary..http://windstarlock.blogspot.com
http://doorlock2.blogspot.com