New to the import scene

Fireforge79 · #1 08-19-2002, 09:09 AM

Ok here the deal i originaly bought a 88 Civic Hatch to use as a work car, since my Mustang drank way to much gas. Now i have gotten to where i want to start working my civic to make it out run all my stang buddy's. Problem is that i have no clue what i have or where to start. all i know is that it's a 1.5L 5 spd. and it's a hatch back. Can any of you all help me out?

bobbyd · #2 08-19-2002, 09:40 AM

Welcome. I am nw to the 4th generations but keep coming to this board and reading peoples post and ask questions and you will learn a lot!

civickiller · #3 08-19-2002, 10:08 AM

hey welcome to the forum

assuming you have alot of money, you could start with an intake and exhaust. but if you want to spank your stang friends then you have to go motor swap, there are alot of different ways to approach this. from what ive heard the b16a1 engine into our 4th gen will lose to a stang. so if you decide to get a b16a1 engine swap, it will probably cost around 3 grand for the full swap at a shop, then you need some kind of forced induction like turbo supercharger or nos. you can also go b18a1 which may cost you around the same price depending on the shop doing it, again to beat a stang you would need to go forced induction. you can also go b18c1 which would probably cost around 5 grand, now that motor maybe up and up wiht the stang, i dont really know. then there lsvtec which is the b18a1 bottom end with a b16a1 head, you get the torque of the b18a1 and the topend of the b16a1, i think this will beat a stang, swap probably cost around $5000 with the ls vtec conversion, faster than a gsr. also there the crvtec, which uses a crv motor bottom end wiht a b16a1 head, which has more torque and hp then a ls vtec. but from i hear the lsvtec and crvtec are not long lasting motors

amy@af · #4 08-19-2002, 12:02 PM

hello

welcome!

there are a lot of different year mustang and a lot of different mods. so to give us a better idea of what swap is right for you, could you please tell us what time you'd like to run the 1/4 mile?

b16 is dohc vtec and has 160 hp. i personally think the turbo kit for the b16 is too expensive (just a basic kit you can only run 5psi)

the d16y8/d16z6 is sohc vtec and has 127 hp. with these engines there is a way to build a turbo set up for $1500-2000 (complete kit you can run 10+ psi)

b16 owners don't like to hear about sohc vtecs that can spank them, this is why i went with a d16y8 (no turbo, yet ) :evillaugh

ami

mellowboy · #5 08-19-2002, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LadyNRedSi

b16 owners don't like to hear about sohc vtecs that can spank them, this is why i went with a d16y8 (no turbo, yet ) :evillaugh

ami

Yeh and your not one of them!

mellowboy · #6 08-19-2002, 12:24 PM

Well theres lots of ways to beat mustangs. NO U DON'T HAVE TO GO FORCED INDUCTION OR STUPID NOS TO BEAT THEM. You can have an all motor b16 or any othe b-series to beat them also. Turbo this turbo that..blah blah blah.Thats all ppl can think of when they want to go fast. Like me i'm goin all motor. This is my feature set up...b16a head with gsr block. Meaning that i'm gonna put 11:5:1 comp pistons with aftermarket rods. Stroker kit, port and polish head with the WHOLE skunk2 valvetrain set up. Upgrading my fuel of coure and my ignition. That set up should get me well into low 12's. Yes you can go forced induction if you want. Either way it doesn't matter, both are good set ups but its up to u of what you want to do. The reason i said b16a is because its the cheapest v-tec b-series. B18c ( gsr motor ) cost about 2800-3200 and b18c5 (type r motor) cost about 5 grand. The cheapest b-series engine is the non v-tec b18a ( LS motor). I would go with that to go force induction but not always neccessary.

Fireforge79 · #7 08-19-2002, 12:25 PM

The stang are manly 94-01 3.8 V6's. Most are super charged, a couple turbo's and a 4.4 stroker V6. The one i want to beat i dont think i will. He is running 14PSI on a custome twin turbo .

In the 1/4 i would like to run a Mid to Low 12. If possible to keep it streetable.

mellowboy · #8 08-19-2002, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fireforge79
The stang are manly 94-01 3.8 V6's. Most are super charged, a couple turbo's and a 4.4 stroker V6. The one i want to beat i dont think i will. He is running 14PSI on a custome twin turbo .

In the 1/4 i would like to run a Mid to Low 12. If possible to keep it streetable.

Well that set up that i mentioned is streetable and can get you into 12's. Turbo is also streetable.

MKS · #9 08-19-2002, 12:52 PM

Hay I just wanna say welcome

you will love this place

HiRcc · #10 08-19-2002, 04:02 PM

Welcome to the scene if you need any help with anything go to www.hircc.com and we will help you

amy@af · #11 08-19-2002, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mellowboy

Yeh and your not one of them!

LMAO, see what i mean...there is the 1st b16 owner to say something. that's okay mellowboy...just keep on thinking i haven't started on that project

Fireforge79, what is your budget like?

i got my d16y8 from a '00 civic ex with only 12,000 mi. (that is newborn baby for a honda) for $500. another $130 for ecu and $150 for wiring harness. it drops right in, no mods needed.

i am a huge d series block fan. the b16 requires tranny, axels, motor mounts, shift linkage, and a bunch of other bs....ends up costing like $1800+...and it's doesn't drop right in, requires welding.

parts for the b16 (aftermarket/performance) cost more. and if you get a japanese b16 it is suggested you rebuild it because a lot of them have been sitting and the seals go bad.

ami

amy@af · #12 08-19-2002, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mellowboy
You can have an all motor b16 or any othe b-series to beat them also. Turbo this turbo that..blah blah blah.Thats all ppl can think of when they want to go fast.

EXACTLY why i don't go b16. everybody and their mom has it. you have it backwards. there are 50 million b16 civic's out there...all following the b series hype. there are only a handfull of turbo civic's...and they are only recently starting to pop up thanks to the t25 set-up.

you go to the track and see a 4th gen smoking everything you expect to see a b16 under the hood. yawn. pop the hood and see only a sohc vtec and that is more impressive.

i suppose i like to take my own trail rather than follow the leader...

civickiller · #13 08-19-2002, 06:31 PM

yeah my friends has a 93 cx, which means its lighter than our 4th gens with a sohc vtec in it, with the skunk 2 stage 1 cam,i/h/e. and he raced a 4th gen b16a. and sorry to say to you sohc vtec fans, my friend got spanked.

k to you all motor guys out there. say you get a gsr, then up the comp ratio to 12 to go all motor, well now you just got a type r motor, except without the radical cams. contrary to popluar belief, upping your comp ratio 1 point will not add that much power look at these figures

b16a1 10:2 160hp ok so with the b16as you get a 10hp increase over
b16a2 10:4 170hp .2 points

b18c1 10:1 170hp ok so with the gsr you get 10hp increase in .5 points
b18c1 10:6 180hp

b18c5 10:6 195hp ok wiht the type r you get 5 hp over .5 points
b18c5 11:1 200hp

ok so say you setup your gsr motor with 11.5:1 ratio, now your probably around 190hp which is still only mid 14s to low 14s. now ssay you get your valve train in, which will probably add around 40hp. so now your at 230hp which will probably get you to the low 13s. dont forget since you said you using a b16a1 head on teh gsr its gonna lower your comp ratio about .2 points. as you increase your comp ratio the amount of hp youll get will go down from each increase in comp ratio
my friend with a integra ls runs a 14.0 with his car. hes gots the stock motor i/h/e, clutch, lsd, slicks and runs a 75 shot. so hes got 140hp plus 75 hp which is 215hp but his car is heavier so i put him in the mid 13 if his motor was inside a 4th gen hatch. the only problem with all motor is taht you cant really go hihger than 12:1 comp ratio unless you plan on running racing fuel. so right there you hit a wall, and you probably will only be at about 250 hp which will be 12s i think but even a 12:1 its not really that streetable. with a turbo you can go up to 16psi on pump gas and thats already into the 300 plus hp

in conclusion, you can get a gsr to go 12s all motor and that probably high 12s, but then you hit the wall there and you cant go any faster. plus with all motor you motor will always be under high stress but with a turbo if you crusing down the road at 4 grand then you not at full boost so there not that much wear on the engine because of turbo lag

amy@af · #14 08-19-2002, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by civickiller
yeah my friends has a 93 cx, which means its lighter than our 4th gens with a sohc vtec in it, with the skunk 2 stage 1 cam,i/h/e. and he raced a 4th gen b16a. and sorry to say to you sohc vtec fans, my friend got spanked.

ummm, i should hope a b16 spanks a sohc vtec with only i/h/e. 130 hp vs 160 hp. key word is sohc vtec turbo. and don't say...then turbo the b16. because then you missed the whole point. the turbo kit for a b16 costs more than the b16 swap it's self.

z6/y8 $500
ecu $130
wiring $150 (or do it yourself for free)
turbo $1500-2000 (complete with intercooler and all parts to run 10-20psi)
_________________

b16 swap $1800
turbo (basic kit...run 5 psi) $2500-3000

Marc-OS · #15 08-19-2002, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LadyNRedSi

turbo $1500-2000 (complete with intercooler and all parts to run 10-20psi)

I'm another loyal D-series fan too. Hopefully I'll have a d16z6 in my rex by the end of the year. My question is, where do you get a turbo setup for so cheap? Is it a junkyard turbo kit, or an actual kit?

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