oil

[mitsu3kgt]

I have found a brand of oil that works extremely well in vr4's. It is Valvoline vr1 racing oil. It has a racing blend that can withstand a lot of friction and high heat. I have been using it in my car for about 3 months. I used many other brands like Castrol, Mobile 1, Royal Purple, and others, but I prefer Valvoline over all of them. It only comes in 20/50w or 50w. It quieted my lifters and I have noticed a power increase when I accelerate. Also another great oil is the new Greddy oil. It is a little exspensive, but it is a very good oil. If I would have to choose between the two I would pick the Valvoline over all oil brands. Also Valvoline vr1 is a non-synthetic oil.

I just thought I would share my thoughts and experience with these oils.

[Ralliart 3000gt]

Elf oils are what they use in F1 cars. Thats what I'm running my baby on and she sounds so smooth. but yea costs an arm and a leg.

[3kvr4]

I was looking for there website but they its not open for the public. Where do you buy your oil from? online? if so can i please get a link?

[Igovert500]

Out of curiousity, are you basing this claim on anything other than your lifters gettin quieter and you 'feeling' your car going faster. Because some, myself included, might question whether increased acceleration is psychosomatic (because in all honesty, i don't think you would feel the few extra hp a really good oil would free up) and whether the lifters are quieter due to the brand, or due to the 50 weight oil.

I'm not trying to be a prick about this and mean no disrespect, I'm just always doubtful of testimonials unless there is factual evidence behind them. Basically Royal Purple is already a pretty good oil, and I don't quite believe somebody telling me they can feel a difference in acceleration from an already good oil and a seemingly better one. Just my .02


Somewhat related, you may be interested in some of the stuff on this site:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

[mitsu3kgt]

all the other brand oils I used were 50w and I still had lifter tick, but when I used vr1 the tick went away. Also I didn't feel a power increase, I meant that my acceleration was a lot smoother and steady.

[Linebckr49]

Originally Posted by mitsu3kgt

all the other brand oils I used were 50w and I still had lifter tick, but when I used vr1 the tick went away.

did the tick go away right after you changed the oil? how long has the tick been gone? ...hope it doesn't come back!

Originally Posted by mitsu3kgt

Also I didn't feel a power increase, I meant that my acceleration was a lot smoother and steady.

HOW was your acceleration "smoother" and more "steady"? how would you describe it before?

[mitsu3kgt]

I got the oil from Advance Auto Parts The tick went away after I drove the car for about 30min. probably not even that. I haven't heard the tick ever since I changed the oil, unless my car was sitting for a while. Before it was a little sluggish and hesitant, not a lot but I noticed the difference when I changed the oil. My car still feels great, and I had the oil in for about 3 months.

[Morphius289]

Hah, this sounds like an advertisement.

I don't know if I mentioned this, but for you N/A's, 20w50 is good for our engines when they get over 100K.

[2old]

I would take all this advise with a pinch of salt...

If we look at what causes lifter tick, it's the haudralic lash adjustors being starved for oil and unable to build enough pressure to lift the valves so that it doesn't touch the seat when it's closed. So the question is, how could a specific type of oil fix this in 30 minutes?

My guess is that the oil needed to be changed because it old oil was too thick to flow into the lash adjustor and/or the clog finally worked it's way loose.

Sluggish and hesitant is not a function of the "type" of oil... Oils of simular weight have simular flow charateristics and therefore while operating should feel the same, otherwise they would have a different grade.

Now I am not bashing racing oils, but every oil have it's use it was specifically designed for. Techncially racing oil should be designed for shear strength, impact resistance and thermal breakdown at the expense of everything else (it only has to last a few days at the most).

What you are looking for everyday driving you need corrosion resistance, detergents, stabilizers, splash lubrication, anti-oxidizers, etc.

I mean look at the application... How would you design a oil that needed maximum performance for maybe a week vs something that has to work in your car everyday, for maybe 3-6 months?

My major concern would be with splash lubrication of race oils... A pure race application should have the oil pressure primed before the engine is started... How many times do you start your engine cold in 3-6 months?

I am not saying that racing oils are bad... I would be hesitant about advising someone else on what oil to use until you know their application.