Air conditioner just does not work

[erikberto]

I have a 2000 model Durango. The A/C stopped working at the beginning of this summer. I tried doing a re-charge to the system, with no luck. Still getting nothing but hot air. I purchased a Haynes manual hoping to fix it, but no luck. When I turn the A/C and the blower to max, I can hear the clicking that Haynes manuals talk about. Anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here?

Thanks in advance.

[steelerguy]

Originally Posted by erikberto

I have a 2000 model Durango. The A/C stopped working at the beginning of this summer. I tried doing a re-charge to the system, with no luck. Still getting nothing but hot air. I purchased a Haynes manual hoping to fix it, but no luck. When I turn the A/C and the blower to max, I can hear the clicking that Haynes manuals talk about. Anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here?

Thanks in advance.

Put a charging pressure gauge on the low side without a can of freon (or tighten the can screw all the way in so that nothing can come out if already connected to gauge).

Start enging & place AC on max cool, full on fan.

If it is above 45psi, leak a little bit out at a time out using the gauge connector held by a rag. I took mine to about 42 & it immediately cooled way down. Let it run for a few minutes to make sure the pressure doesn't go back up. If it does, drain the pressure again.

Repeat the procedure every couple days as the pressure seems to rebuild. This assumes you have an overcharged system which is bad for the compressor anyways.

My gauge instructions said that 55 psi was fine in high ambient temperatures but this did not work in the real world.

There may be a more correct way to drain off pressure, but this worked for me.

[erikberto]

Originally Posted by steelerguy

Put a charging pressure gauge on the low side without a can of freon (or tighten the can screw all the way in so that nothing can come out if already connected to gauge).

Start enging & place AC on max cool, full on fan.

If it is above 45psi, leak a little bit out at a time out using the gauge connector held by a rag. I took mine to about 42 & it immediately cooled way down. Let it run for a few minutes to make sure the pressure doesn't go back up. If it does, drain the pressure again.

Repeat the procedure every couple days as the pressure seems to rebuild. This assumes you have an overcharged system which is bad for the compressor anyways.

My gauge instructions said that 55 psi was fine in high ambient temperatures but this did not work in the real world.

There may be a more correct way to drain off pressure, but this worked for me.

Thanks steelerguy. I'll give that a try when I get home tonight.

EDIT: Well....got home tonight and gave it a shot steelerguy...no luck. Thanks again for the suggestion. I'm beginning to wonder if it might be the condensor. I'll keep ya updated.

[jdq]

Is the compressor clutch engaging.

[erikberto]

Originally Posted by jdq

Is the compressor clutch engaging.

If that is the clicking noise, then yes.

[spivey8]

you will see the compressor clutch is engaging if the whole thing is spinning.... first start up your truck with the ac off then look at the compressor where the belt is spinning the front should not be spinning....once you turn on the ac then the front should start spinning... hope this helps

[mcastor11]

It is not a easy take to change the Evaporter. I did mine about a month ago. Took almost 2 days. The dash has to come all the way out to get the heater box out. Its not to bad to do it, just takes time. Midas quoted me around $1800 to do the job. Would hate to see what a dealer would charge.

I got the evap at NAPA for $140 I think and the Heater core for $45. If you
do take this on yourself get the heater core as well. Since there both in the box together. I did all that, it worked about a week and the compressor went out....