Oil?

[Im3good4u]

Hey guys i know this has been posted over and over again, but i have a quick question i was reading the manual and in the oil part it said NOT to use SAE 20-50w, or 15-50w. That happens to be what i've been using. My car has 125k miles and about 35-40k since the rebuild. I live in Miami and the temperature is always above 75 degrees. My dad says that i should stick to that oil because my car has alot of miles andin this temperature the oil gets very thin. Should i change back to 10-30w(Recomended by manual) or stick to what i've been putting in there I've been going that thickness for about 4 months.

[Mr. Luos]

I know some guys with built motors with insane tolerances that almost have to run that thick of an oil to prevent burning a ton.

Stick with what works.
Motor quieter with the thicker stuff?
What differences between the oils when you drive?

[Im3good4u]

Motor is quieter...and the difference is felt off the line...the car definitely takes off quicker, and you feel it at the beg. of each gear as if the car had something holding it back. Higher RPMs i couldnt tell the diff.
Basically Thin oil u get better fuel economy and higher HP and thicker means alot less wear but you suffer on the other two, I really cant say how much of a diff it causes.

[DarkblueTA]

Originally Posted by Im3good4u

Motor is quieter...and the difference is felt off the line...the car definitely takes off quicker, and you feel it at the beg. of each gear as if the car had something holding it back. Higher RPMs i couldnt tell the diff.
Basically Thin oil u get better fuel economy and higher HP and thicker means alot less wear but you suffer on the other two, I really cant say how much of a diff it causes.

I live in Palm City(30 miles north of West Palm) and I run Mobil 1 10w30. Unless you are highly modified or sit in a lot of stop-go traffic, I'd stick with 10w30.

[FormulaLT1]

I use Mobil 1 10W30 or mobil 5W30.

[corning_d3]

If your that worried, start running a 10w-30 synthetic with seal conditioner.

[hotrod_chevyz]

Ive always ran 20/50 quaker state. never had a problem.

If i run 10w30 in the crown vic, the motor rattles at the top of first gear and it smokes out the tail pipe. It also burns the 10w30 up, and ends up low on oil. 20w50 doesnt burn up like that, and it barely smokes out the tail pipe.

BTW ive driven the car for over 70 thousand miles now, and it runs better than when i bought it. It goes through battery posts frequently though. 10w30 is thin as water and does very little to protect engine vitals, by the time 3,000 miles has passed. 20w50 is as thin as 10w30 after 3,000 miles.

Certain instances do call for lighter oil, like cold weather, certain engines with external oil pumps or turbos, but for the most part, 20w50>10w30.

On another note, my dad bought a ford ranger brand new. He has ran 20w50 in it since birth. 150,000 miles later it still runs perfect. It has a v-6. My sister has a 2002 ford escort. The top end of the engine was always noisy since she bought it brand new. especially when it was cold. The noise out of the rockers made me wonder what was going on. Then i noticed that every one of those 2.0's do that. Its the factory recommended oil viscosity. It called for either 10w30 or 5w30. As soon as I thickened the oil up, the noise stopped. Sounds better at 70,000 miles, than it did when she bought it with 200 miles on it.

[DVS LT1]

I ran 15w50 Mobile1 for two summers - my car ran really hot back then, was burning oil, and also had a small leak, so I figured the thicker the oil would help.

Can't really say I noticed a difference in performance. If/when I have a motor that runs COLD, I'd probably go with a 5W30 Royal Purple or Mobil1.

[97cavalier]

right now i have mobil1 clean 5,000 in mine, but normaly i either run that, or castrol gtx.

[corning_d3]

I've got clean 5000 in my engine now, but I liked castrol syntec better...