97 Geo Metro

egc519mzl · #1 07-23-2006, 09:50 PM

I am fixing an exhaust pipe of a friend and while under it, I am planning to change the oil, too. WHen I look at the engine, it has an SH or GF-1 requirement.
Would a GF-3 compliant okay? Actually, I bought a Quaker State performance in green container. Also, what is the capacity of the engine. It is a 4-cylinder engine.
I looked at the compartment, the car doesn't have a manual.
Thanks...

97coupe · #2 07-24-2006, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by egc519mzl

I am fixing an exhaust pipe of a friend and while under it, I am planning to change the oil, too. WHen I look at the engine, it has an SH or GF-1 requirement.
Would a GF-3 compliant okay? Actually, I bought a Quaker State performance in green container. Also, what is the capacity of the engine. It is a 4-cylinder engine.
I looked at the compartment, the car doesn't have a manual.
Thanks...

With motor oil, you can sub a higher rated oil for a lower rated requirement but never use a oil with a lower rating than is called for. (Sx or GF-x)

Waterboymp · #3 07-28-2006, 06:54 AM

My 2000 Metro has a 1.3 L 4 cylinder. Capacity is 3.5 quarts if changing the filter.

egc519mzl · #4 08-01-2006, 01:57 PM

Thanks for the replies... Now he is asking me to change the transmission oil... Any idea on what type of transmission should I use? His car has an automatic transmission. THanks in advance...

hot_sd · #5 08-02-2006, 02:35 AM

Dexron III

Waterboymp · #6 08-02-2006, 04:34 AM

You'll only need 1.5 qts of Dextron III.

egc519mzl · #7 08-02-2006, 06:41 AM

The main reason why he sent me back his car was to replace the front brakes. THe transmission was only secondary but thanks for the input. The front brakes were already scraping. When I first fixed the exhaust, I didn't have time to fix the brakes because this is his primary and only car. I had to return it to him and he is about 30 miles from home.
WHen I removed the calipers, this car has a different type of caliper assembly. It also has a caliper bracket, which I believe has to be detached to be able to remove the rotor. Please comment if I am wrong. I broke the lower bolt and had to get a regular bolt replacement from Home Depot. It is M10 1.25 x 25 (with the washer).
Anyway, this morning when I tried to push back the cylinders, it wouldn't. It is probably seized because the fluid in there is already very dark. I will just bleed the fluid and replace the calipers with new ones rather than trying to fix it.
Now, I am out of option but to lend him the van. He would be screaming with the MPG but I don't have a choice.
Thanks again... Will keep you posted.

hot_sd · #8 08-02-2006, 08:40 AM

Yes, you have to remove the bracket to remove the rotor.

egc519mzl · #9 08-02-2006, 02:49 PM

OK.. I removed the bracket this morning (also the screws that go through the rotor) but couldn't move it a bit. Hit slightly it with a hammer a few times and also applied a little force with a pry. Couldn't detach it.
Should I hit it harder or is there a special tool that I should get?

hot_sd · #10 08-02-2006, 03:13 PM

I believe the factory installed rotors have a couple of threaded holes to help out (at least mine did). Just get a couple of long bolts and bolt them through - this will help lever the rotor off the hub. If not you can use a puller - some auto parts places will loan them out to you. I presume you don't plan on using the rotor again.

egc519mzl · #11 08-02-2006, 03:33 PM

Definitely will replace the rotors. It has been scraping for several weeks already. The new rotors have four holes but I think the old has only two. And that's where the screws were. I will check again tonight. Thanks..

hot_sd · #12 08-03-2006, 12:58 AM

Yes, would not be a good idea to reuse them after hitting them with a hammer. It would also be a good idea to sand/clean the hub before installing the new rotors. Kent Moore makes a nice tool for doing this - but like all their tools it is pretty expensive. I'm seriously consdering buying a small lathe - would be more fun to machine some of these tools myself.

egc519mzl · #13 08-03-2006, 09:13 PM

I was able to remove the rotors on both front wheels but am having problem with the bracket on the pass side. The bottom bolt is stuck. Tried to use bolt extractor and I broke the extractor. I also broke a few drill bits already. It would probably be better to just replace the bracket.
I browsed autozone and advance auto parts, they don't carry those. Anybody knows where I can buy it?

hot_sd · #14 08-04-2006, 02:52 AM

Maybe I'm missing something but if you cannot get the bracket off in the first place how are you going to replace it. Assuming you can get it off by destroying the bolt then all you need is a new bolt. An impact wrench would be the best thing to try assuming you can get one in there. And as I recall the bracket is not a common item - you would have to go to the dealer probably or a junkyard maybe the cheaper option. A while back one of the caliper pins seized on mine and I did also consider the possibility maybe getting a new bracket but found out it was not widely sold. I was however able to beat out the pin by mounting in a vice and hitting with a hammer.

egc519mzl · #15 08-04-2006, 10:54 AM

Yes, I was able to take out the rotor because the bolt would only slide out from the mount. The mount doesn't have a thread. And the head of the bolt is off. I broke it. With the caliper bracket out, I tried to extract it but only made it worse. The extractor is broken and is stuck in the stuck bolt.

I went to a couple of automotive centers this morning and told me to call Chevy dealers, which only sell as a package with the caliper. They quote me $350.
Any suggestion on how to remove the stuck extractor in a stuck bolt? Thinking of welding the stuck bolt on both ends so I can hopefully turn the bolt.
Another option is to go scour in the boneyard but I don't know a boneyard here in CT.

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