Ooops - trans problem - help

[Rupesy]

I just can't get ahead. Today I was replacing the trans filter and I couldn't get the small gasket out that goes on top of the filter hole. I used a screw driver to pry it out but when I did, I broke off what looks like a small motor on the valve body Oops!). I attached a link. Will a transmission shop have parts likhttp://www.therupertsonline.com/jon/...trotrans2.htmle this in stock? Where can I get parts?

[Blue Bowtie]

From the location, it appears to be the 3-2 downshift control solenoid. Without it, the trans will probably operate in third gear only, if at all, and will heat the oil quickly due to the necessarily high slip of the torque converter.

Any trans shop or dealer should be able to get the part for you.

[Rupesy]

Will I need to pull off the valve body to make the reapir? It appears that there is something plastic broken at the end of the solenoid.

[Blue Bowtie]

There should be TWO hairpin-type retaining spring clips in the bottom of the valve body adjacent to the broken valve. The inboard clip should NOT be removed since it retains the piston, two springs, and the valve spool. The outboard clip (nearest the solenoid) can be removed to release what is left of the stem/body of the solenoid. Simply pull the clip straight downward out of the valve body to release the parts, then fish out what is left of the solenoid body/stem. Oil up the 'O' rings on the new valve with clean fluid, carefully align the solenoid and press it into place. Hold it in place while you insert the hairpin clip. It engages a groove on the solenoid to hold it in place.

As a further suggestion, while out shopping for parts, pick up a ½-20 oil drain plug, a ½-20 jamb nut, and a drill. Drill a ½" hole in the right rear (passenger side) corner of your trans oil pan. Remove the gasket from the oil drain plug and thread the plug from the outside through the nut on the inside of the pan. Snug it in place a weld about three good tacks around the nut flats to hold the nut in place.



Remove the oil plug, clean up any spatter, and reinstall the plug with the gasket. Most parts stores should have the plugs. I've used a lot of the Dorman/Motormite 65203 (magnetic) or 65245 (standard) plugs for this purpose. It makes service a LOT easier and cleaner.



I've found that draining the pan oil only every 20K or so removes most of the contaminants, then changing the filter every two or three drainings is more than enough to keep the trans healthy. Most sdiment and devris will be in the pan, and drain with the oil, or remain stuck to the pan magnet between filter changes. If you do a lot of towing or hauling, you may want to adjust your frequency, but the drain plug makes handling a nearly empty pan immensely easier either way.

[Rupesy]

Thanks for all the help. I picked up the solenoid this morning and I just finished about a half hour ago. I followed your directions and the broken piece came out and I put the new one in no problems. Hopefully there will be no leaks tomorrow morning. Trans is working fine and a little less vibration since I put in a new transmission mount. She still kicking! (I do like your idea about the drain plug - too bad they can't just come like that)

Thanks again.

[Blue Bowtie]

At only about a quarter-million miles, the jury is still out. You'll have to wait and see how it runs after it is broken in and has some real mileage on it. Don't get too excited until you get past the half-million mile break-in period.