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#1
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Broken bolt in block
For some reason the long bolt that goes through the alternator bracket and then through the water pump broke and i think i'm screwed. Any ideas on how to GET to it? I assume raising the engine with the cherry picker I don't have...
Thanks
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Tim 1990 Talon AWD 2.3 stroker, 8.8 wiseco, FIC 750's, DSMLink, PTE SCM5031
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#2
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Re: Broken bolt in block
Ooooooooh that fuckin blows. You could take off the mount on that side, put some wood on the oil pan and jack er up a bit, maybe you can get and easy out to work in there. Otherwise I would say you are basically boned and you'd have to take the engine out to get that bolt out.
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#3
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Re: Broken bolt in block
put a jack and wood under the oil pan. jack it up a bit to support the weight then take off the tbelt side motor mount. let the jack down as far as the engien will go and i think you should have a decent shot at it from the bottom.
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-1stGenRocks- 95 Tsi AWD: 6 bolt, DSMLink, 880's, ACT 2600, lightweight flywheel, AGX's, Dropzone springs, poly motor mounts and suspension bushings, 3 inch turboback, gus modded 1g BOV, hardpipes, drilled & slotted rotors, 17's plans: bastard 20g, water/meth injection NO FMIC |
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#4
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Re: Broken bolt in block
The thing is, I was doing the b-shaft elimination and that side mount is off now. I unbolted the crossmember to lower the engine far enough to pull the b-shaft to clear the frame, which never did BTW, so i left that shaft in. Anyways that bolt is right above the rear b-shaft and I don't think lowering it is an option, but I will try anyway. I REALLY don't want to pull the engine. I'll see if i can figure something else out in the meantime.
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Tim 1990 Talon AWD 2.3 stroker, 8.8 wiseco, FIC 750's, DSMLink, PTE SCM5031
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#5
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Re: Broken bolt in block
If the bolt broke, it should pull right out, since there is a nut on it. Or os the problem that the bolt is too long to get out since it comes out toward the frame rail? If thats the case, pull it out, cut it flush, repeat? I've never seen one of those break.
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Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#6
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Re: Broken bolt in block
Quote:
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-Brian
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#7
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Re: Broken bolt in block
Kevin, you must be thinking of the bolt underneath the alternator and allows it to pivot. The one I am talking about goes to the bracket that holds the alternator up and bolts through the water pump and into the block. It's the one just to the right of the water pipe.
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Tim 1990 Talon AWD 2.3 stroker, 8.8 wiseco, FIC 750's, DSMLink, PTE SCM5031
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#8
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Re: Broken bolt in block
Shit, gotcha. The one that holds the curved/slotted bracket, and not the alternator itself. You fuckers are always throwing curve balls at me with these descriptions
If it was stuck enough to snap the head off, it won't come out easy. If it were me, I'd just pull the motor. Sucks if you don't have an engine hoist though.
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Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#9
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Re: Broken bolt in block
I mentioned it was the bolt that went through the water pump in my first post, but I think it wont be that bad to get out once i have access. The bolt broke when I was putting it in, not taking it out. Didn't even seem like it was crossthreaded becasuse i threaded it by hand first.
I'm thinking that the bracket was pulling the bolt left because of the weight of the alternator. I'll get the engine out or up or whatever needs to be done. Who knew the hardest part of the b-shaft removal was the fuckin water pump?
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Tim 1990 Talon AWD 2.3 stroker, 8.8 wiseco, FIC 750's, DSMLink, PTE SCM5031
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#10
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Re: Broken bolt in block
UPDATE: The broken threads came out! How? BY HAND! Thats right i turned it by hand. I hate myself for not trying that in the first place. I should have known since it was never even torqued. Thanks for the quick replies, I'll use more common sense next time, i know i'm retarded.
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Tim 1990 Talon AWD 2.3 stroker, 8.8 wiseco, FIC 750's, DSMLink, PTE SCM5031
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