Pic of Datalink on 1996 PA. Terminal #s??

[Garfield2]

This is a picture of the data link on my 1996 Park Avenue. It is found under the dash, drivers side. Can anyone tell me which is the Terminal 8 and Terminal 4 that needs to be jumpered for programming a remote? Is this similar to a 1997 Datalink on my friends car?

Also, notice the red button on the left of the datalink in that recessed space? What is this for, any clues?

Thanks!

[Cntrysthbst]

My picture is same, OBD II. On mine it is pin 5 and 8, the pin that is close to the red alarm button being pin 8, and 3 to the right of that is pin 5. I jump those two to program my remotes.

Looking at your picture, the very bottom left is pin 8 and 3 to the right of that is pin 5.

That red button should be your valet button for your alarm system. Not the factory alarm, but an aftermarket. That 3100 you got in it.

[Cntrysthbst]

How did you post that picture?

[HotZ28]

Keep in mind that you are looking at the terminal up-side-down.

[Garfield2]

Now, in the thread that talks about programming remotes, it states that you jumper pins 8 and 4. See this link: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=118683

However, I don't see a "4" mentioned in the above picture diagram upsided down or not

[Garfield2]

Originally Posted by Cntrysthbst

How did you post that picture?

I uploaded that picture to a website I own. Then I choose the "insert image" from the toolbar on this forum and put in the link to my site that had the picture and you MUST use correct directory paths or nothing works.

[Cntrysthbst]

All right thanks.

I think I am stepping down from this one. I have a 98 PAU but have never worked on the remotes. I called the dealer about reprogramming a remote for it but had no luck getting any info from them except that they'll be happy to program it for me.

Now what I posted earlier is for a 94 PAU. It has the OBD II hook-up. I jump pins 8 and 5. I just checked to make sure again on that.

And on my 92 PA OBD I, I jump pins A and G.

I read a post in here to jump pins 4 and 8 and it blew 3 of my fuses. So take extra precaution, and seriously double check this info with HotZ, someone else may post who knows more too. 96 may be different.

[HotZ28]

The generic illustration shown above is a “typical” OBD11 DLC, and was used to only show the configuration of the DLC and pin out, as it relates to pin #1 through 16. Do not confuse this with the actual pin out on your car. The older OBD1 DLC used a 12-pin connector and alpha designation (A-M) to identify the pins. All 1996 and new OBD11 DLC used numeric designation (1-16) and have the same DLC configuration. 1994 & 1995 models using the OBD11 DLC with the OBD1.5 PCM, can have different pin outs, however, the configuration of the connector is the same. I have seen as many as five different pin outs in the DLC on these cars, however, the location & numbers remain the same. (Some may have pins and some may be empty) Here is your DLC turned up, then upside down. Jumping pins 4 & 8 is correct for 1996 models.

[Garfield2]

Thanks for your wonderful pictures...right side up and upside down!!

I jumpered the connectors 8 and 4, turned on the ignition and the doors cycled lock/unlock for me. This is good. The 4 button remote I had that had GM/LEAR on the back did nothing when I held the LOCK & UNLOCK buttons down for 30 seconds, so must be not one for this car. Could be for a Le Saber or other GM car. I got it off ebay a couple of years ago and has been stashed in my drawer. Batter is good, that I checked.

My friend at work has a 1997 Park Avenue and his remotes are giving him fits. Would the same part number (or remote) that works on a 1997 also work on the 1996?

He also wants me to find out a way to completely disable his passive alarm system. He doesn't want horns/light going off or anything. He just wants lock buttons to lock and then manually unlock them. Can this be done?

Thanks again for the excellent illustrations. I'm sure someone else in here will be very grateful of this info.

[Cntrysthbst]

Dealer tells me no.

HotZ, on this 94 PAU I got can you explain the OBD1.5 PCM? It has the OBD II DLC. How is it different from the rest? Is testing, codes, etc. all different from the OBD I & II? Thanks

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by Cntrysthbst

Dealer tells me no.

HotZ, on this 94 PAU I got can you explain the OBD1.5 PCM? It has the OBD II DLC. How is it different from the rest? Is testing, codes, etc. all different from the OBD I & II? Thanks

Why does the, “Dealer tell you no” and on what subject?

Unfortunately, during 1994-1995 some GM cars, were picked to be the “Ginny pig” on the transition from OBD1 to OBD11. First, they installed an OBD11 connector on an OBD1 PCM with pins on the connector that would be similar to the OBD1. Some of these would read OBD1 codes like, 12-68. Other cars were fitted with an OBD11 code scheme with PO in the beginning, hence the OBD1.5 terminology. A better terminology of these retrofitted units would simply be called, “The Bastards”!!
I have a 1994 LeSabre with the OBD11 DLC and it reads PO codes! Look under the hood and see if you can find a sticker on the fan shroud that identifies whether your car is OBD11 of OBD1 compliant. Another way to tell is to locate the PCM, if it is under the hood, it is OBD11 & if under the dash, it is OBD1. I use I use a Matco Tools 9640B professional enhanced scan tool on the 94-95. It has the 16-pin OBD11 connector and reads the OBD1 & OBD11 codes. It is actually, a KAL or “Actron” scanner, that we purchased in 2002. It is fully compatible with all OBD11 cars. “Actron” has a cheaper unit, CP9150 that will work also, (last link)
http://www.bizrate.com/buy/noncat_pr...339276208.html
http://www.toolsource.com/ost//product.asp?brand_id=&sourceid=&dept_id=500&pf_id= 94840&mscssid=$shoperid=$$
http://actron.com/publish/2004/10/22/Title2_16143.pdf
Now, if you are totally confused, welcome to the club!

[Cntrysthbst]

That "the dealer tells me no" is about Garfields2 post:

His question >>> He also wants me to find out a way to completely disable his passive alarm system. He doesn't want horns/light going off or anything. He just wants lock buttons to lock and then manually unlock them. Can this be done?

I called the dealer and they said no, can't be programmed like that.

Should have been more specific.

Confused? Not after reading that 10 times ! Ok, it says OBD I compliant, and I got a OBD II connect, so does that mean it's 1.5? One more thing, I'm thinking I might get shot by the wife if I spend 700 buks on a scan tool but I might be able to take it in the leg if it's worth the money. Will the CP9150 do good? or is it better to go with the bullet?

[HotZ28]

I would just explain to the wife, that if you had a scanner, you could save a lot of money replacing parts trying to fix a problem, not knowing if the parts purchased, would really solve the problem. Also, explain to her that it would help you determine if your 1994 PA, reads OBD 11 codes, or OBD1 codes! (That will add some amount of confusion on her part). The more confusing you can make the discussion, the better your chances of success.
Now if she says,
and that you should know better before you buy the parts, tell her that is why you need the scanner! That is what you call a "full circle discussion" and it is intended to confuse the other party. If the wife is a Lawyer, just forget it, and take the bullet!

[Garfield2]

My wife is pretty versed at automotive functions. She helped her 1st husband overhaul the motor in his Camaro. So how "tuned" she is to cars might make a difference also.

Suffice to say for me it does not justify $700. I bought the 1996 used in GREAT shape for $1500, and that 700 could be used on things... like vacations and such as opposed to scanning the car. Now, if I had a part time job or hobby of fixing other peoples cars and I could use it for that, then it's not a bad price. Personally, I could just not justify it to myself, let alone my wife.

[Garfield2]

A friend of mine at work has a 1997 Park Avenue. He let me borrow his remote entry fob, and I tried the jumpering of the 8 and 4 slots, shut the door and turned on the switch. Doors lock and then unlock. Held his fob and pressed the "lock" and the "unlock" buttons down and counted. In about 15 seconds or so the doors locked and unlocked. I then pulled the jumper off, turned off the ignition and got of the car. Doors lock with the lock button, then the drivers door unlocks with just 1 press of the unlock button, and t pushes opens all the doors. Trunk opens quickly with just the one push of the trunk remote button. The FCC number was a KOBUT1BT (GM/UTA) and NOT the GMLEAR ones. Canada number was 1983 101 393

Went to a local salvage yard today and looked at dozend of GM remotes. Found 2 that had the Canada 1983 101 393, and tried them. They both work great. The one had worn out images on the button, and was just gray, so I opened up my fob at home that doesn't work, and switched out the rubber pieces and now the one that works has a good face on it again.