rotors

PlayStation3 · #1 07-12-2006, 02:03 PM

hi, i am about to get new brakes put on my sl2 and i was wondering what where some signs of bad rotors. and which kind are better: slotted,cross drilled, mixture of slotted and crossed drill, or stock. the pads will probelly be sps Magnum Silver Street brakes.

Tacuvito · #2 07-13-2006, 02:38 PM

Tell signs that you need a rotor are a grinding feel when stopping. Your pads are spent of all breaking material and the steel backing is now rubbing against the rotor. Replace pads and turn rotors. Since standard rotors are so cheap, just buy a new set. Another sign is a wobble every time you break. This wobble can also be felt through the steering wheel. The rotor is warped and needs replacing. Always remember to replace in pairs it is the least you can do. Don't replace one rotor at a time. Prefer to replace all four rotors or rotors and drums as well as the break pads/shoes.

Slotted/Drilled rotors are good for high temperatures caused by rapid deceleration. Since you will probably won't be racing your car, go for the standard rotor. Also slotted/Drilled rotors are more expensive then standard. Good luck.

PlayStation3 · #3 07-13-2006, 02:51 PM

well i do have a slight problem with going 80 and then realizing that there is a stop light about two hundred yards a way.

Tacuvito · #4 07-13-2006, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PlayStation3

well i do have a slight problem with going 80 and then realizing that there is a stop light about two hundred yards a way.

Don't be cute dude, I meant that you will be using your car for racing I.E.: If you will be accelerating and decelerating at winding turns, using heel toe, riding the breaks, that sort of thing. If you are racing on the street, curb that now, don't be a danger to yourself or others. Good luck.

PlayStation3 · #5 07-13-2006, 11:46 PM

well i as not trying to be that usally is my braking habit that's y i thought of getting the slotted/ crossed rotors.

sickcallawayc12 · #6 07-14-2006, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PlayStation3

well i as not trying to be that usally is my braking habit that's y i thought of getting the slotted/ crossed rotors.

If you think it's worth it then do it. the only thing that will hurt is your wallet and your leadfoot overtime.

PlayStation3 · #7 07-14-2006, 12:18 AM

yea but if i don't have too.. now i know about rotors on front but is there anything about the drum besides the pads to them that tend to go like the front with the rotors.

Onimacus · #8 07-14-2006, 04:55 AM

I've never had a problem using OEM rotors and pads. Car stops just fine even in emergencies.

And OEM pieces are pretty cheap too.

wrparks · #9 07-14-2006, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tacuvito

Slotted/Drilled rotors are good for high temperatures caused by rapid deceleration. Since you will probably won't be racing your car, go for the standard rotor. Also slotted/Drilled rotors are more expensive then standard. Good luck.

I agree, no need for the slotted rotors even if you do quite a few hard stops because you don't see a light. It's only needed if you do alot of hard stops right after each other. Really, they are needed for people who race and have to brake often to slow down at a curve. That is when you get heat buildup. Sure, they get hot when you do a hard stop, but hopefully by the time you do it again they should be cool unless you are in the city, floor it at every light and slam on brakes at 60mph 50 ft from a red light every time.

wrparks · #10 07-14-2006, 09:26 AM

Honestly, all I have ever done with the drum brake is have them inspected for functionality and have never done any work to them in my life. They don't really have as many wear parts to need fixing as often. Now, if you notice your front pads are wearing out faster than you though, your drums may not be working right so your front brakes are working too hard. Had this happen on a old blazer of mine, and it would go through pads in no time. I said I had never done any work to them because I sold the blazer soon after discovering the problem. No worries though, the dealer got it so I don't have to worry about some poor schmuk killing his/herself.

Onimacus · #11 07-14-2006, 03:11 PM

Your front rotors/pads do aroun 85%-90% of the stopping I believe.

wrparks · #12 07-14-2006, 03:29 PM

Yea, that's true. From what I understand, when you brake normally, the front brakes do all the work to stop the vehicle. It's only when you brake really hard that the drums do anything at all, and then only like 30%.

Suddenly, it makes me wonder why the front brakes did wear out so quickly. I know the drums were bad, had that checked, but that still apparently doesn't explain things, huh? Maybe the pads were not being put on right or needed some adjustment and were rubbing while driving. Oh well, it's not my problem now.

That probably also explains why the drums last so much longer.

sickcallawayc12 · #13 07-14-2006, 03:43 PM

i never messed with the drums on my car even though my mechanic recommended replacing the shoes. never had an issue ever (didn't do hard stops either).

PlayStation3 · #14 07-14-2006, 04:10 PM

well i don't do them that much the only reason y i even brought up them is becuase my manuel says to inspect/replace becuase i am at 60k which is when both need to be done by the manuel specs

sickcallawayc12 · #15 07-14-2006, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PlayStation3

well i don't do them that much the only reason y i even brought up them is becuase my manuel says to inspect/replace becuase i am at 60k which is when both need to be done by the manuel specs

I believe how it works is that the pads/shoes wear to a certain point and once that point is reached, dealers/mechanics recommend that they should be replaced. they still have some life left, they just don't wanna be responsible when you ignore this and you wear the pads down all the way to the grinding of metal as Tacuvito described (i've done this in all the cars i've owned).

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