Beginners Tips!

[Elsven]

Hey guys I am new here and need some advice. I have been reading over the forms here and was wondering a few things. First just so you guys know my Cavalier is a 1998 2.4 L DOHC pretty much stock, the only thing I have changed is the intake, to a straight pipe with a K&N filter on it. I have been thinking about boosting it but I have heard bad things about the Cavi’s engine not being able to handle a lot of extra power and sending pistons threw the wall of the block. Any information on my engine that would be helpful for me to know would be great. I would also like to know the following:

1. What is the pacesetter head that is the best for the Cavi 2.4 DOHC?
2. Is it worth it to change the fly wheel, and pulley system and what type of gain should I expect and what is the best names to go for?
3. What will a clutch kit do and what is the differences between a stage 1,2,3,etc, what are the pros and const of each stage and what is the best names to go for?

[Lances133]

Well as far as the header goes, Pacesetter makes a black painted header and a ceramic coated header, they might make a polished one but im not too sure and too lazy to look right now. You don't want the black one, spend the extra money and go with the ceramic one. Also, they only make a 4-1 header for the z24, no 4-2-1's. I'm in the same boat as you, 98 Z with an intake, only I have a front strut bar.

[Elsven]

Is the front strut bar for added integrity? It would make sense if your engine starts putting out more power you are going to have to change shocks, struts so you can handle the extra power, I think that is what the different clutches do too. But I’m not to sure about this i have jsut been getting more into performance modding and my knowledge of cars is entry level at best :P so expect a lot of questions from me lol.

[my99cavy]

try here for the header..http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...?idproduct=156

[Lances133]

The strut bar was on it when I bought it, but I bought a better one and a rear one for my 2.2 and it makes taking corners a dream, i'm tellin ya, front and rear strut bars and the car lowered, holy hell it makes turning ALOT less wobbly, it was great.

[my99cavy]

I would go here for pretty much everything. www.jtuners.com the clutches and flywheels are under drivetrain.

[Elsven]

I would go here for pretty much everything. www.jtuners.com the clutches and flywheels are under drivetrain.

Yea I was looking at that site but to be honest I am a nub at this, I know the basics about the cars so I was wondering if you guys could help me to decide what will be the best for my car. IE: Is it really worth it for me to get a stage 5 clutch kit, what will it do to help me race and what are the side affects if any? And I know the fly wheel in that site is lighter then the stock one but what types of gains will I get from it and what are some problems that I may encounter with it, there must be a reason why the stock one is so heavy.

The strut bar was on it when I bought it, but I bought a better one and a rear one for my 2.2 and it makes taking corners a dream, i'm tellin ya, front and rear strut bars and the car lowered, holy hell it makes turning ALOT less wobbly, it was great.

What is a good brand name to go with, or does it really matter. Oh how much did you lower your car by?

[my99cavy]

Stage 1 - A Stage 1 clutch is a great upgrade from stock for street use. Stage 1 clutches include a metal backed / organic faced disk.

Stage 2 - Stage 2 clutches are recommended for mildly upgraded vehicles with a power adder. A segmented Kevlar disk is used on the Stage 2 clutch kits.

Stage 2+ - For all modified engines making more torque than the stage 2 can support. Maintains stage 2 feel for good daily drivability and offers very good wear characteristics, but provides a higher torque capacity. High clamp pressure plate, composite multi-friction carbon-kevlar material, high torque sprung hub and disc assembly, bearing and tool kit.

Stage 3 - Stage 3 clutches come with a sprung center disk with pads. The disk pads are a carbon/ceramic combination. The ULTIMATE STREET/STRIP CLUTCH! Sharp but smooth engagement with light pedal.

Stage 3+ - Features a streetable high clamp pressure plate and full face carbon semi-metallic disc. Listed as an upgrade to the stage 3, it offers torque capacities more comparable to the stage 5 but with drivability equal to, and in some cases better than, the stage 3. The high capacity and excellent drivability characteristics of this clutch is a result of years of research and development for this SPEC exclusive disc compound.

Stage 4 - Stage 4 clutches are not recommended for street use due to their aggressive nature. A rigid disk and carrier are used in combination with your choice of Kevlar, carbon or ceramic pads.

Stage 5 - Stage 5 clutch kits contain high-clamp load pressure plate, iron disc, bearings and a tool. Extremely aggressive.

[Elsven]

Originally Posted by my99cavy

Stage 1 - A Stage 1 clutch is a great upgrade from stock for street use. Stage 1 clutches include a metal backed / organic faced disk.

Stage 2 - Stage 2 clutches are recommended for mildly upgraded vehicles with a power adder. A segmented Kevlar disk is used on the Stage 2 clutch kits.

Stage 2+ - For all modified engines making more torque than the stage 2 can support. Maintains stage 2 feel for good daily drivability and offers very good wear characteristics, but provides a higher torque capacity. High clamp pressure plate, composite multi-friction carbon-kevlar material, high torque sprung hub and disc assembly, bearing and tool kit.

Stage 3 - Stage 3 clutches come with a sprung center disk with pads. The disk pads are a carbon/ceramic combination. The ULTIMATE STREET/STRIP CLUTCH! Sharp but smooth engagement with light pedal.

Stage 3+ - Features a streetable high clamp pressure plate and full face carbon semi-metallic disc. Listed as an upgrade to the stage 3, it offers torque capacities more comparable to the stage 5 but with drivability equal to, and in some cases better than, the stage 3. The high capacity and excellent drivability characteristics of this clutch is a result of years of research and development for this SPEC exclusive disc compound.

Stage 4 - Stage 4 clutches are not recommended for street use due to their aggressive nature. A rigid disk and carrier are used in combination with your choice of Kevlar, carbon or ceramic pads.

Stage 5 - Stage 5 clutch kits contain high-clamp load pressure plate, iron disc, bearings and a tool. Extremely aggressive.

So would going with a stage 3 or a 4 b overkill, even if i was planing on putting a turbo or super on in the future?

[Lances133]

Originally Posted by Elsven

What is a good brand name to go with, or does it really matter. Oh how much did you lower your car by?

Me and Cody both lowered our cars with the same set up, Eibach Prokit 1.6" drop with KYB AGX adjustable struts/shocks. Apparently it's the best drop set up for jbodies.

If you're gonna get a strut bar, ya gotta go with both front & rear to get the most results, I got mine from here @ Turbo Tech Racing, because they have a front & rear combo, if you get the combo you save about $20. As for brand name, I would definitely go with Vibrant, stront braces, relatively cheap price compared to others, good quality, they look alot cooler then other brands and very bright colors that stand out, Here's the ones on my 2.2...

[my99cavy]

Originally Posted by Elsven

And I know the fly wheel in that site is lighter then the stock one but what types of gains will I get from it and what are some problems that I may encounter with it, there must be a reason why the stock one is so heavy.

ok as far as the flywheel goes the stock one is so heavy and large that it takes alot of power to rotate it. thus losing horsepower to the wheels. with an aluminum flywheel, its so much lighter and smaller that all that extra horsepower is sent to the wheels instead of rotating it. and if your going to replace the flywheel i recommend that you also swap the clutch as well.

[my99cavy]

Originally Posted by Elsven

So would going with a stage 3 or a 4 b overkill, even if i was planing on putting a turbo or super on in the future?

no i dont think that stage 3 would be over kill. especially if your going to boost it in the future.

[Elsven]

If I lower my car do I have to also change the rims or tires, currently I have stock ones. Can I lower the car and change the tires later? And would going with a stage 4 clutch kit be over kill because the price difference between a stage 3 and 4 is not much I may just pay a bit extra for it.

[my99cavy]

Originally Posted by Elsven

If I lower my car do I have to also change the rims or tires, currently I have stock ones. Can I lower the car and change the tires later? And would going with a stage 4 clutch kit be over kill because the price difference between a stage 3 and 4 is not much I may just pay a bit extra for it.

no you dont have to change your wheels and tires if you lower the car. but adding new wheels and tires wont hurt. you could always add them later. and i would probably stick with a stage 3.

[Elsven]

Originally Posted by my99cavy

no you dont have to change your wheels and tires if you lower the car. but adding new wheels and tires wont hurt. you could always add them later. and i would probably stick with a stage 3.

Yea but I just spent 800 on new rubber for the car lol so that’s the last thing I want to change at this point.