Finishers Clear Coat..

[mickbench]

i've searched, and find that Finishers clear is a good clear to use over Finishers paint, but I'm confused on which one to get..

Kunta seems to know a lot about these paints from this thread

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ight=finishers


http://www.1999.co.jp/asp/GoodsDetai...op_right_e.asp

http://www.1999.co.jp/asp/GoodsDetai...op_right_e.asp

What is the difference between GP1 and GP2..?? The thread kumta posted in doesn't tell me.. I intend to use it with CLK GTR Finishers silver..

Thanks...

[auw12]

i'm interested in that stuff too.and i was looking for a review of finisher's paint somewhere.as i know all the people who had used them felt impressive to work with.

[mikemechanic]

Mick if you go to rainbow 10's website they have a link on the left side of the page in the shopping box that says finisher's paint. It has a list of the colors and clears and explains all the differences. http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/

[mickbench]

Thanks,

Says one can be polished, one cannot be polished, and must be applied within 24 hours, but 24 hours of what..?? Base coat, as I'l never get the decals down in 24 hours, to allow for clearing.. It will take 2 days just to let them cure off...

Might just go with the standard Auto Clear that is decal safe.. Or so it says..

Also, the CLK colour I intended to use says this -

19: CLK Silver

A.k.a German Silver. Relatively dark silver. Become very unique finish when the founation is done in either gold, black, blue and brown.

Has anyone ever used this colour and get a sample for me to look at? Its meant to be a match for CLK silver, but how do I know...?? Says darker slilver, but I thought the CLK GTR was a fairly light silver, reason I didn't want to use TS-17, but also I didn't want to use TS-30, as thats a hard colour to lay down over larger surfaces..

Thanks

[hirofkd]

24 hours between two coats.

Darker isn't quite the right word for the CLK silver, because it's more like slightly tinted silver.
The top picture was taken with flash, the bottom without.

As you can see, the CLK silver is still light, but not like the gaudy aluminum-like silver next to it. Tamiya's TS-17 is not exactly the same as the Gunze one, but closer to it than the Finisher's one.

Is the CLK silver accurate? I don't know, but I'll use it, because it looks calm and tasteful. Also, silver tends to be affected by its base color, so you'll need some experiment.

[ajthomas75]

Hi Mke,

Keep us updated either here or on Scale Plastic Cars as to your experience with using Finishers on your CLK build as I'm a regular user user at Rainbowten (great service!) and if Finishers clears and colors are good I'll have to give them a go.

Adam.

[mickbench]

The CLK silver looks more like TS-17, just a tad... But its almost impossible to tell from the cap.

I hate this sometimes. Try as I might, I must just be tone blind, as every picture I've seen of the CLK GTR shows the silver very light, and very flat, almost like bare metal... But who knows...

This is Bill Attridges CLK, using Floquil Railroad Colours bright silver covered with Model Master clear top coat.

http://members.shaw.ca/bil_attridge/...GP5649_png.jpg

I can get this colour in the UK... Thoughts?

[Decs0105]

Maybe the CLK paint is for the DTM Mercedes cars...?
Anyway I have a translation from "Urethane Clear Paint System GP-1" instuctions



"Urethane Clear Paint System GP-1

Sand & Polish OK Type (A little slower drying type than GP-2)

1. Character

Ultra smooth shiny surface even without sanding or polishing. but this GP-1 is OK for sanding and polishing.

Hardly not yellowing or loosing gross over ages.

It is like a glass, Very hard surface, but no flexibility, so if you twist, drop, make holes, scribe, it gets cracks.

2. How to use
1. Mix TEN Clear to ONE Hardener.
2. Mix well. Don’t worry, you have two hours.
3. Viscosity is high, so use with rather high pressure, and also beginners can add up to 35-40% with the attached thinner. But the less thinner the more glossy and smooth result.
4. To cover the decals, spray very light for the first three times with 3-5 minutes interval.
5. At the room temperature 10 centigrade, it dries in 24 hours, 20 centigrade, 16 hours, 30 centigrade, 16 hours. But to make sure, wait a few days to start working on them.
6. Wash the equipment, brushes, plates, etc., right after the use with Finisher’s tool washer, which washes better than other brands. Use Finisher’s Poli Cloth or T-Shirts to wipe them. Do not use tissue papers as they leave paper residue.



3. Warning
1. After finishing the Urethane paint on your car, and if you need to touch up some spots, don’t put too much Lacquer paint as they give wrinkles on the urethane paint.
2. Make sure no water in your spray system as they get pinholes, or repelling.
3. The hardener is vaunable to moisture in the air, so after the use, always make sure to close the inside cap as well as the outside cap tightly.
4. When you close the hardener caps, always clean the bottle thread and caps with thinner, otherwise they stick each other and hard to reopen again.
5. Make sure not to leave stuff around the spraying area like your eyeglasses, etc., as the over spray is tough to clean. Never store the Urethane paint set in your refrigerator. It gets moisture inside the bottle when you take them out to room temperature.
6. For your safety, always use eyeglasses, gloves, mask, etc. Should the paint gets in your eye, or hurt your skin, immediately stop using and visit a doctor.
7. Follow the instruction above and do not alter please.

Translation by Hapico"



And some more infos on F1m.com!