Competition Clutches?

[Blackcrow64]

Some of you know that I had a Competition Clutch installed on my car before my motor cw'd. Well anyways, it was a used clutch and I pulled it off and now know that it is worn out and will need replaced. I got to looking into CC's site because I liked it so much. From what I'm understanding, they are running extremely low pressure plates which makes no sense to me at all... I know they use a special combination of materials in their discs for them to grip incredibly but I didn't think that would be enough for them to compromise pressure plate weight... Anyways... I had a street disc with a pressure plate that felt like something between a stock pressure plate and a 2100... I'm wondering if this will be enough pressure for my new built motor if I just stick a 6 puck in there instead...

Also, I notice they say 150%-300% or whatever of holding power... How do I know how much power that will hold exactly? is that like 300% more holding power than OEM specs? Its just a very confusing thing to me and I would like to know exactly what they are talking about before I order a new disc and/or pressure plate.

Here's a link to their clutch/flywheel packages I'm looking at. I was looking at the Stage 4 kit...

http://www.competitionclutch.com/vie...STEEL+FLYWHEEL


Thanks guys.

[kjewer1]

I always recomend poeple with street cars stay away from pucked clutches. That one at least has a sprung center section so you should be less likely to destroy tranny input shafts, but I'll still toss in a "use at your own risk" disclaimer. It's hard to not just recomend everyone under 500 whp just run a 2600 ACT, they are so well proven. Once you get over that, or run an EVO, a twin disc is the only viable option in my humble opinion. Even puck style clutches don't always do well at that level, even with heavy plates. And DSM trannies don't like aggressive materials.

IMO, options for DSM clutches completely suck. The 2600 is the most proven, and it's cheap enough to go through a few of them over the years.

On an EVO I don't like the ACT options at all, and neither does Shepperd for that matter. I'm left with no real options other than an Exedy twin (1400) or a Tilton twin (1700). As much as I used to complain about the 2600s on the 2g when I started to make serious torque, I would love to have such a simple solution for the EVO.

If you like CC, see if they can do an equivelent. Looking at the name of the stage 2 kit, it seems to basically be an ACT 2100. As I see it, your options are to try to get something like the 2600 with a street disc, or take your chances on the stage 4 puck disc. It may work out just fine, and there is only one way to find out

[SilvrEclipse]

I would think that clutch would hold. How much power do you think you will be getting with your new motor? My friend has a 6 puck ceramic clutch and it drives just as good as my kevlar. There is a little bit of chatter in reverse but other than that it drives great.

[Blackcrow64]

My goal with my new setup is about 450hp... But I will be continually working on it and upgrading turbos in the future I'm sure. I eventually wanna see over 550hp someday...

I did notice that DSM's have horrible clutch options. I had considered a twin disc but they are just so damn expensive. Are they really worth every penny? How do they engage? I've never gotten to drive anything with a twin disc but I have heard its the way to go for holding some serious power without breaking things.

The reason I was leaning away from ACT was because I know many people who have had the clutches break on them and not hold their power. I have driven 2100 and 2600 ACT's and just didn't care for how they engaged. (street discs) When I first got my CC it took me all day to learn how to engage it without stalling it and everybody that drove it swore up and down it was a 4 or 6 puck in it... I got to the point that I can drive it with no problem but nobody else can really drive it smooth. I hop into something with a street disc and I slip the hell out of it and I don't wanna be running into that same problem with my car once its back together and ruining discs in it...

BTW, is there anyway for me to find out which pressure plate I have on my motor now? I couldn't find any numbers on it but assumed it had to be something like the stage 2 since it was an ironman street disc.

I liked being able to rev my motor to 5500rpm and attempt to slip it into gear, but it would NEVER slip and would launch like hell. Thats one of the reasons I wanna stick to the CC's because they can't be slipped. I just don't know how much HP their street discs will hold and I can't seem to find any sites that accurately give a HP estimate, only that 150-300% thing.

[Thor06]

I dont think its power that makes a clutch slip, its torque. I would say go for the SBR kits. They are cheaper than ACT's and they have more gripping power (supposedly).