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#1
06-27-2006, 02:59 PM
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Window regulator problems
I am working on a '88 S 10 w/o power windows. The nylon roller at the end of the regulator split so I ordered a new one and here where it got interesting. I drilled out the old one put the new one in, the part was called a roller and rivet but I knew it couldn't be used with a rivet puller because it didn't have the nail to pull to pop it. I tried to brad it which was hard because it swivels in the roller and I broke off a piece and found out it was not soft and meant to be bradded. So next I drilled a hole in it and tried putting a screw in it which didn't work to good because the rivet turns too so you can't tighten it up. So I am going to order another one and I hope someone knows the secret to putting these on because I sure didn't.
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#2
06-27-2006, 03:07 PM
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Re: Window regulator problems
Did you try pop rivets?
__________________
ASE Master Certified before the age of 20 Current Cars: 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 5.3L 1996 Acura Integra LS B18 1.8L Past Cars: 1990 Buick Estate Wagon 5.0L 1987 Chevy S10 2.5L Tec Four 1995 Pontiac Grand Am 2.3 Quad 4 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2L AWD 1991 Ford Tempo L 2.3L 1992 Buick LeSabre 3.8L 1997 Buick Century 3.1L 1996 Lumina APV GT 3.4L 2006 Ford Escape 3.0L XLT
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#4
03-29-2011, 04:40 PM
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Re: Window regulator problems
I successfully replaced the broken roller onto the original ball stud, with the regulator still attached to the door inner panel - avoiding the riveting / peening problem altogether.
- bought the same roller/stud thingy - Dipped it in hot water to make sure the nylon was not brittle - used a flat-tipped punch and a small socket to knock the new stud out of the new roller - heated the nylon roller in hot water again, then quickly popped it onto the original (factory) ball stud on the window lift arm of the regulator assembly. NOTE: The roller itself has three parts - it is not necessary to disassemble the roller.
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#5
03-29-2011, 04:49 PM
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Re: Window regulator problems
More from notta...
If you have destroyed the original stud's attachment (or if it was loose), I'd weld the stud to the arm. withOUT the roller in place, of course. NOW - If anyone has cured the floppy diving window issue, please tell me ! I got everything in friend's door moving smoothly, and I put new "shoes" on her replacement glass... but those shoes don't snap into the track, or maybe something is missing. OR... the expensive answer she don't need... go to the dealer and spend for new channels. (this assumes that any junkyard driver-door parts will be as worn as hers are).
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