Disc pad replacement - caliper bolt problems.

[kraf]

93 GMC Suburban 1500C @ 170k miles. I've changed my front disc pads twice before. This time I'm having problems. I would like to grease the caliper bolts. Should they come out of the caliper and how does one get them out. Mine won't come out past the metal guide opposite end of the bolt head. There is no obvious sign of uneven pad wear indicating stuck caliper bolts.
Also, the same inner caliper bolt guide sticks out enough so that there is not enough clearance to get new pads in when I mount the caliper on the bracket. One side's caliper guide sticks out perhaps 1/4" and the other side maybe only 1/8". Why is this? I actually tried tapping the one side and got it in enough to clear the bracket with new pads but failed on the other side. I had to throw in the towel and put the old pads back in....still a little wear left.
I'm considering replacing the calipers & fr brake hydraulic hoses since I get a noticable pull to one side initially upon braking.
These caliper bolts have me puzzled and the GMC shop manual is no help at all on how you get them out. Thanks in advance to the brake veterans.

[2000CAYukon]

You should be able to tap the bolts to get them out of the cailper. There is a rubber bushing in the caliper that the bolt goes thru. These bushings get hard due to the heat and should be replaced.

If you have a pull when you apply the brakes, then the hoses should be replaced. If you are not comfortable rebuilding the calipers, then replacing the calipers and hoses would be good since they should be rebuilt (depending on how long it has been since then were rebuilt).

//2000CAYukon

[kraf]

Thanks for the info. I think I will replace calipers with rebuilt ones. I assume the rebuilt ones come with the pins already greased? On the hydraulic hose replacement, are there any gotchas/tricks involved with changing them out? Is it possible to chg the front hoses out and only bleed the front brakes instead of all 4? I'm ignorant as to the hose connections on both ends and don't know whether it is possible to cap the line to not drain the master cyl. Thanks.

[2000CAYukon]

The replacement calipers should come with caliper grease is a little pack. You can replace just the front hoses and you should not need to bleed the rears; although, it is a good idea to flush some of the old fluid out of the rears.

Once you disconnect the hose from the caliper it will start to leak. I like to drain the master so that it does not make a mess. Once everything is back together, you wont have a pedal until you bleed. Until you have a pedal, I like to bleed this way (starting with RF then LF):

Open the bleeder valve
Have someone press the pedal and hold it!
Close the bleeder valve
Have the helper release the brake pedal.

Repeat until you get good fluid flow at both wheels (or all 4 if doing all 4), then the process is:

Have the helper pump the brake pedal 3 times and hold
Open the bleeder and let air out
Close the bleeder
Have the helper release the brake pedal

Repeat as necessary starting at the farthest point from the master working your way to the closest point. Dont forget to check the fluid level in the master. If it runs out, you have to start over.

//2000CAYukon