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Old 06-23-2006, 01:13 PM
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Dorman Oil Cooler Lines

I bought a set of new dorman lines to repalce the old GM leakers. I was told that I need a special tool that allows you to remove the press in lines. Is this true? I got two lines Dorman parts #625-100 and 625-001. These are the right ones I think. I have a 4x4 so I need both, I am told. There is a how to thread kicking about but not with pics. Anyone have pics of the job?
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Old 06-23-2006, 02:40 PM
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Re: Dorman Oil Cooler Lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by mountie1982
I bought a set of new dorman lines to repalce the old GM leakers. I was told that I need a special tool that allows you to remove the press in lines. Is this true? I got two lines Dorman parts #625-100 and 625-001. These are the right ones I think. I have a 4x4 so I need both, I am told. There is a how to thread kicking about but not with pics. Anyone have pics of the job?
are you replace JUST the hoses or the ends too with the fixtures and things on it? i replaced all the things and u dont need anything special
http://www.truckpartsdiscount.com/cg...ar=1996&cat=31 (its like...the 2nd or 3rd thing on the list)
you could also get under and ull be able to see everyting youll need right away...when u do it...get a pan and disconnect the bottom part first so the oil will drain in the pan.
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Old 06-23-2006, 05:13 PM
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Re: Dorman Oil Cooler Lines

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Originally Posted by magnum3456
are you replace JUST the hoses or the ends too with the fixtures and things on it? i replaced all the things and u dont need anything special
http://www.truckpartsdiscount.com/cg...ar=1996&cat=31 (its like...the 2nd or 3rd thing on the list)
you could also get under and ull be able to see everyting youll need right away...when u do it...get a pan and disconnect the bottom part first so the oil will drain in the pan.

By Fixtures you mean the metal parts as well as the rubber hose? If so yea everything. The metal ends on one of the lines dosent screw in it has a push in and lock into place type style thing. I was told you need a special tool to get the old one out.
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Old 06-23-2006, 05:30 PM
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Re: Dorman Oil Cooler Lines

I did my 98 2wd a few months back, Your going to need a long socket extension, that's about all as far as special tool's. I've heard that the 4x4's are a little harder to do then the 4x2's.

DO A SEARCH ON OIL COOLER LINES.....
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Old 06-24-2006, 12:39 AM
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Re: Dorman Oil Cooler Lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by mountie1982
By Fixtures you mean the metal parts as well as the rubber hose? If so yea everything. The metal ends on one of the lines dosent screw in it has a push in and lock into place type style thing. I was told you need a special tool to get the old one out.
I dont remember ever using a special tool...I have a 4x4...is wasnt hard...it is much easier with 2 people tho
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Old 06-24-2006, 06:05 AM
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Re: Dorman Oil Cooler Lines

The radiator ends have a safety plastic cap that you just push or gently pry off of the ring type clip - then pop/pull/pry the retaining ring clip off and the line pulls out of the radiator fitting - remove the air filter box and its easy to reach (10mm nut and the box then lifts our (tie the rest up to the open hood. Thats the filter to rad one. Then the filter to block past the engine mount is a bear and does not fit - you can lift the motor with a floor jack/wood block and force the engine mount to stretch up but usually the rubber will separate from the block side so I always remove the lower bolt from the mount (frame to mount and as you jack the mount bracket should then move - this takes 2 people to do cause one has to hold the bolt nut thru the wheel well rear and the other has to rotate the bolt from the lower front with the skid plate off with long extensions - its your choise but that engine mount is a pain to replace (look at the bolts on the block side). Have fun.
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:14 PM
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Re: Dorman Oil Cooler Lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by muddog321
The radiator ends have a safety plastic cap that you just push or gently pry off of the ring type clip - then pop/pull/pry the retaining ring clip off and the line pulls out of the radiator fitting - remove the air filter box and its easy to reach (10mm nut and the box then lifts our (tie the rest up to the open hood. Thats the filter to rad one. Then the filter to block past the engine mount is a bear and does not fit - you can lift the motor with a floor jack/wood block and force the engine mount to stretch up but usually the rubber will separate from the block side so I always remove the lower bolt from the mount (frame to mount and as you jack the mount bracket should then move - this takes 2 people to do cause one has to hold the bolt nut thru the wheel well rear and the other has to rotate the bolt from the lower front with the skid plate off with long extensions - its your choise but that engine mount is a pain to replace (look at the bolts on the block side). Have fun.


Yea NO SPECIAL tools needed. There is a C clip that pulls off and then you just pop the line out of the rad. Thats super easy the rest is harder. Stupid parts people thinkin just cause they sell it they know more the AF. They sure do hate it whne I sa the people on AF tell me different. HA HA HA Thanks all
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Old 06-26-2006, 11:30 PM
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Re: Dorman Oil Cooler Lines

no special tools needed on my 97 4-dr 4x4 Jimmy.

... lots of patience though ... you DO NOT want to strip any bolts !!


... an assistant can be VERY HELPFUL with keeping that long extension in place ...

... tip ... use the plastic caps that came on the Dorman lines to plug the old lines and minimalize the oil leakage/mess ...

... tip ... 'wobble' sockets (available at Autozone, Advance, etc) make the job much easier ...

... I only lost 3/4 qt when I did this on mine ...

.... also, I didn't need to jack up the vehicle ...

... I used a sturdy wrench to act like a crowbar, found just the right position for leverage, and then raised the engine. This gave just enough clearance to get the old lines out and the new lines in ...





Quote:
Originally Posted by mountie1982
I bought a set of new dorman lines to repalce the old GM leakers. I was told that I need a special tool that allows you to remove the press in lines. Is this true? I got two lines Dorman parts #625-100 and 625-001. These are the right ones I think. I have a 4x4 so I need both, I am told. There is a how to thread kicking about but not with pics. Anyone have pics of the job?
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