More throttle related issues

[david-b]

Ok, so I install my ported TB the other day and it's been nothing but perfect. However, I found some time to try to get the throttle to open right. On the datalogger, (stock TB) it was at 12% at idle and 74% WOT. I was told this is not good, so I tried doing adjustments.

I turned the idle screw all the way down, so the stopper hits the TB. It read at 6%. Can't get any lower than that at idle. However, WOT was then 50% or so. Crap. Also, SAFC was only reading about 70% at WOT. Had no power.

I messed with the screw some more and brought the idle to 10%. WOT sits at like ~68%. I also tried Kevins throttle adjustment, and it didn't help much.

So I was going over the whole throttle cable and all and realized that the connection at where the cable meets the gas pedal, there is slack. The pedal sits down right, but if you put you hand or foot under it, you can pull up about 3/4". So how do I adjust that?

I opened the box where the cable goes through. It has like 3 wheels inside and the CC cable is connected there also. It's mounted on the firewall. Anywho, I tried adjusting the scews on where the cable goes into the box to try to tighten it up... did nothing. Is this my problem? Should there be slack right there at the pedal?

So now the car is sitting at where it was stated before. I'm going to the dealership this week to get a new TB -> IM gasket (old one is crappy), and try to get a throttle cable for no cruise control. Then Ill try to take that out. Also going to Autozone and picking up a new silicone connector for CAI -> TB (old one has a little leak at TB).

Any ideas or suggestions on how to fix my problem here? Thanks!

[kjewer1]

Originally Posted by david-b

So I was going over the whole throttle cable and all and realized that the connection at where the cable meets the gas pedal, there is slack. The pedal sits down right, but if you put you hand or foot under it, you can pull up about 3/4". So how do I adjust that?

This is almost certainly where your problem is. You are losing that much travel at the TB. In one of the PMs I mentioned the adjustment where the cable from the pedal goes into the CC box. The cable jacket end should be threaded with a locknut. But again, I have only seen this on the turbo cars, it may be different or nonexistant on yours. By screwing the jacket "out" you should be able to take up that slack. This is the main reason I got rid of the cruise control, I couldn't get rid of all of the slack and gave up.

[david-b]

Originally Posted by kjewer1

This is almost certainly where your problem is. You are losing that much travel at the TB. In one of the PMs I mentioned the adjustment where the cable from the pedal goes into the CC box. The cable jacket end should be threaded with a locknut. But again, I have only seen this on the turbo cars, it may be different or nonexistant on yours. By screwing the jacket "out" you should be able to take up that slack. This is the main reason I got rid of the cruise control, I couldn't get rid of all of the slack and gave up.

Kev, I'm going to get you pics tomorrow!

Where the cable goes into the CC box, there is a thread on the end with 2 bolts, 1 on each side of the CC box, that are tightened, holding it onto the CC box. I thought that's where you were talking, but I was sure which way to go with it. It seems like either way I tried, I wasn't getting any results, but I really wasn't trying too hard.

There is also the same thing on the cable coming out from the CC box, however, there is almost no slack at that end.

[david-b]

Oh, and I'm going to goto the dealership tomorrow to see if I can just get a new cable without the CC. Would be much easier. I just have to make sure someone is there who knows what they're talking about (unlike last time).

[kjewer1]

Unlike the turbo 2g cars, the NTs did have models/packages that did not include cruise, so the cable definitely exists. But you're right, the hard part is getting a guy in parts that knows how to use CAPS and can find the thing.

[david-b]

Originally Posted by kjewer1

Unlike the turbo 2g cars, the NTs did have models/packages that did not include cruise, so the cable definitely exists. But you're right, the hard part is getting a guy in parts that knows how to use CAPS and can find the thing.

I ordered the cable today. The computer actually only showed my car coming without CC. I made them search for mine with CC so I make sure they order the right part. Got that and a TB gasket for less than $30.

Couldn't get any pics bc it rained all day, then got hot as hell when I went to work. Later though.

[david-b]

Ok, so here's the news.

I got the CC taken out and new cable in. New coupler, bolts, gasket, everythings all good. The TB, (while watching and someone in the car), opens all the way up when flooring it. It's pushed all the way to the back of the plate. Closed, it looks good too.

SAFC reads 0%-75%... not good. Datalogger reads 9% - 74%. There is more air coming in... the car is running like a beast now. Alot better pickup and WAY better throttle control. Pedal feels like it should.

Since the throttle isn't reading 0% yet, does this look like the TPS is bad then? The air screw is set all the way down as far as it can go. Should I get a new TPS? I don't want to buy it and then not need it. I need to buy an EGR valve too, and these things are expensive. New TPS?

[kjewer1]

That is officially odd.

[gthompson97]

David, I think I have a few TPS's laying around. If you want I could send you one and see if it makes any difference in your SAFC readings.

[david-b]

Originally Posted by kjewer1

That is officially odd.

Ah Oh... This is what God would say if you stumped him

Originally Posted by gthompson97

David, I think I have a few TPS's laying around. If you want I could send you one and see if it makes any difference in your SAFC readings.

How many miles are on them? Are they for sure working? How much?


And I drove around today and everything feels so much better. The pedal is like butter and not like you're pushing a pedal going through a cows ass. So smoothe. SAFC is reading 80% WOT now. Also slapped on a voltage stabilizer today and my voltage gauge is reading a pure constant reading all the time, not jumping around or anything like it has been. Lights are brighter too.

Here's a question for you all: When you're driving and the SAFC is showing the throttle, does it bounce around? Like if you're cruising and the throttle is at 5%, does it bounce between like 4.x% - 6.x% all the time? Mine does constantly. It is NEVER reading one number.

[gthompson97]

Originally Posted by david-b

How many miles are on them? Are they for sure working? How much?

They have anywhere between 80,000-120,000 miles. I have no idea how well they work, but they should all be in good condition, or they were when the motor blew. I'm not 100% sure if I even have any or not, but I should with all the extra parts I have laying around. And the cost....no charge, I have no use for them anymore being as I'm gonna get rid of my 420a. I would ask that you pay for shipping but it will be like $3.00 so it wouldn't even be worth it.

[david-b]

Originally Posted by gthompson97

They have anywhere between 80,000-120,000 miles. I have no idea how well they work, but they should all be in good condition, or they were when the motor blew. I'm not 100% sure if I even have any or not, but I should with all the extra parts I have laying around. And the cost....no charge, I have no use for them anymore being as I'm gonna get rid of my 420a. I would ask that you pay for shipping but it will be like $3.00 so it wouldn't even be worth it.

Awesome. Sounds great. I'll pay for shipping. DO you have the bracket that holds the cooolent resivoir on? It's held on by 2 bolts and the tank just sits on it? If so, I'll buy that too! Let me know if you find the. Thanks!! PM me so we don''t post whore this place up.