2001 Ford Taurus SEL 24V - 120K miles maintenance

[dwilder150]

Hey guys, I recently purchased an 01' Taurus SEL with the 24V motor.. seems like a great car so far!

My question revolves around it's mileage: aprox. 120K...

Since I just bought the car, I really don't know what was done previously (although it seems to be in really good condition for the miles). I've done the following since I've bought it:

- Replaced sway bar end links on front (there was a rattle that this fixed)
- Flushed Transmission
- Flushed Cooling System
- Flushed Brake System (and turned front rotors.. pads were all ok)
- Replaced Spark Plugs/Wires
- Replaced PCV valve
- Replaced O2 sensor before Cat
- Replaced Thermostat
- Replaced Fuel Filter
- Replaced Air Filter w/ K&N
- Replaced Wiper Blades
- Ran a container of fuel cleaner through the car
- Fresh Oil Change (to establish a baseline)
- Washed/Waxed

What else do I need to do maintenance-wise?
I have read through the manual in the glove box and Chilton's, but I still feel like I'm forgetting something.

Is there anything special I should be watching for?

I appreciate and hints or suggestions. I just need her to last three years until my wife get's done with law school without any major repairs.. think she'll make it?


Dustin Weber
http://dustinweber.com

[Huney1]

Here's how to inspect the serpentine belt and if has any flaws replace it.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/.../aa071205a.htm

". . .until my wife get's done with law school without any major repairs.. think she'll make it?" That Duratech engine is tough as nails and should easily make the 200K mile mark then some. You might have to replace the air condioner compresor, starter motor, alternator, power steering pump or whatever goes bad with age and miles, but the engine itself should do fine.

Here's a list of recalls and the Ford place may be able to tell you which ones have been done. http://www.internetautoguide.com/aut.../se/index.html

[wafrederick]

I see one mistake you did,flush the transmission.Never flush a transmission with the machine.All I hear are horror stories about transmisssion flushes.During a flush,dirt gets pushed back in and stuck into the valve body.The new fluid gets mixed with old fluid and that is bad.The machine uses more fluid also.I had to replace one transmission and it was acting up after being flushed.My father knows a guy that has his own transmission shop that does valve body cleanings after hearing the transmission has been flushed,the customer comes in with a complaintoes not shift right.The transmission shifts right after a valve body cleaning.The best thing to do to an automatic transmission is to change the fluid and filter and the pan gasket is reusable..

[dwilder150]

Originally Posted by wafrederick

I see one mistake you did,flush the transmission.Never flush a transmission with the machine.All I hear are horror stories about transmisssion flushes.During a flush,dirt gets pushed back in and stuck into the valve body.The new fluid gets mixed with old fluid and that is bad.The machine uses more fluid also.I had to replace one transmission and it was acting up after being flushed.My father knows a guy that has his own transmission shop that does valve body cleanings after hearing the transmission has been flushed,the customer comes in with a complaintoes not shift right.The transmission shifts right after a valve body cleaning.The best thing to do to an automatic transmission is to change the fluid and filter and the pan gasket is reusable..

Man.. that stinks. I already had it done when I bought it (several weeks ago). I really though that would help.. not HURT anything. Is it worth the time/money to have someone cleave the valve body for me.. or just leave it alone now? Maybe the shop didn't actually flush.. I know they dropped the pan and replaced the filter. I suppose I can call and ask.

Thanks to everyone else for all the info and help

[Willyum]

If it's working OK you probably did no harm to the transmission. I see no mention of type but if you didn't use Mercon 5 fluid you better correct that.

[Huney1]

I Googled this off the web. "One of the biggest differences between the various ATFs is in the area of friction. In order for the automatic shifts to occur at the right time, with the right torque, without delay or slippage, and without shudder (or stick-slip), the clutch plates must engage and disengage properly. Many transmission builders use clutch packs, which have alternating steel and friction plates. The friction plate is usually coated with a cellulosic (paper-based) material. The proper engagement and disengagement of clutch plates depend on the level of friction between the ATF and the steel or paper surface. If the ATF is too "slippery," then the clutch plates will slip. If the ATF is too "sticky," then the shift will be bumpy or harsh.
Each transmission OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) uses different types and sizes of clutch packs, made with different friction materials. Because of this, manufacturers require an ATF with friction properties that work best with their own clutch design. Many OEMs use transmissions that have clutches which continuously slip at low speeds. If the ATF doesn't have the right friction properties, these types of clutches can shudder after being in service for a while. The shudder is essentially a phenomenon where the clutch plate momentarily sticks, and then slips. The ATF additive chemistry is critical to protect against shudder, especially after many miles of service.
To demonstrate the difference between some ATFs, let's compare MERCON® ATF with MERCON® V ATF. Most new Ford vehicles are factory filled with MERCON® V. The MERCON® V is very different in its properties compared to the original MERCON® fluid. For example, MERCON® V is much more pumpable at low temperature compared to MERCON®. It is also much more shear stable, with much better anti-wear protection. The special requirements in the newer ATF can only be met by using partial synthetic or full synthetic base oils. You may guess as much if you compare the price of regular MERCON® versus MERCON® V. Although most OEMs design their ATFs to work with all transmission models on the market (newer and older), there are certain Ford transmissions that will not work efficiently with the newer ATF."

[dwilder150]

Well I drove it quite a bit yesterday after we had the rotors turned a bit more (they were still pulsating quite a bit).

I asked the shop about the fluid and they said that they always use whatever the manual calls for. I haven't had a chance to look yet, but I'm assuming it didn't ask for Mercon V in the book.

At this point, I think I'm just gonna leave it alone. I think the risk vs. cost isn't high enough to justify ANOTHER flush just to get the "right" fluid in there... but I still appreciate the advice.

Besides, the transmission seems to be (and has since we bought it) shifting absolutely perfectly. I love this 24 V motor, it takes a bit to get the power flowing, but it really kicks in once you get a few revs on the tach.

If anyone else has any things to look out for, let me know!

[Willyum]

You won't be happy in a few miles if they put in wrong fluid. Most independent shops I've asked use Mercon in the flush. Undoubtedly the cheapest Mercon, which is the Mercon III.

[Huney1]

Willyum, what's the rule with ATF's? I think you can use Mercon V where you would normally use Mercon or Mercon III, but where it calls for Mercon V you can't use anything but Mervon V.

For instance, the power steering unit on my 03 Vulcan says Mercon, but I believe it would be OK to use Mercon V ? ? ? Right - Wrong ? ? How about the auto tranny that says Mercon or Mercon III. Can we use Mercon V ? ? ?

I read that some where on the web but can't remember where so don't know if I'm right or wrong.

[dwilder150]

Originally Posted by Willyum

You won't be happy in a few miles if they put in wrong fluid. Most independent shops I've asked use Mercon in the flush. Undoubtedly the cheapest Mercon, which is the Mercon III.

-------

Does anyone else have an opinion on this. I really don't want to replace all the fluid if it's not gonna make that big of a difference. I trust this shop and I know they put whatever is reccommended for the car in it.. but it probably wasn't Mercon V (unless that's what the book called for).

Is it worth the money to redo it?

[brokenantimatter]

Originally Posted by dwilder150

What else do I need to do maintenance-wise?
I have read through the manual in the glove box and Chilton's, but I still feel like I'm forgetting something.

If you feel the need you could change out the battery and the belts. I personally would install a transmission inner cooler. It will save you a lot in the long run.

Originally Posted by wafrederick

I see one mistake you did,flush the transmission.Never flush a transmission with the machine.All I hear are horror stories about transmisssion flushes.During a flush,dirt gets pushed back in and stuck into the valve body.The new fluid gets mixed with old fluid and that is bad.The machine uses more fluid also.I had to replace one transmission and it was acting up after being flushed.My father knows a guy that has his own transmission shop that does valve body cleanings after hearing the transmission has been flushed,the customer comes in with a complaint: Does not shift right.The transmission shifts right after a valve body cleaning.The best thing to do to an automatic transmission is to change the fluid and filter and the pan gasket is reusable..

Not to be an ass or anything but do you a degree in a transmission repair or gears boxes? If not, than please refrain from commenting on preventative maintenance on a gear box or transmission.

Originally Posted by dwilder150

Man.. that stinks. I already had it done when I bought it (several weeks ago). I really though that would help.. not HURT anything.

If you had it flushed you did nothing wrong the only reason you would have any worries is if you don't trust the shop that did it.

[Willyum]

At an independent shop I would watch them do the transmission fluid change just to be sure they used the # 5 stuff. One way to tell is that if they did a flush like you say, it was about 14 qts. Most shops charge about $5 a qt for it, Pep Boys has it for about $3.50. So, for instance, if they charged you $79 for the flush, is a good chance they used the cheapest stuff they could find, then at that price didn't drop the pan.
I expect that you could trust the Ford service to use 5 but they quoted me $295 for a transmission flush and filter.
It wouldn't be important except as you read through the forum, transmission problems are a hot topic and we all want to avoid the up to $3000 fare for a replacement/repair.
I don't know what's in the P.S. system but I would use Mercon V as well.
Is good that you are serious about your vehicle maintenance.
Wil

[Huney1]

"Does anyone else have an opinion on this. I really don't want to replace all the fluid if it's not gonna make that big of a difference. I trust this shop and I know they put whatever is reccommended for the car in it.. but it probably wasn't Mercon V (unless that's what the book called for).
Is it worth the money to redo it?" If they used the wrong kind you better believe you should redo it, that or throw down for a tranny rebuild. As usual, Willyum is correct, the Mercon V is a lot more expensive than the others because it contains synthetics. Look at your receipt and see how much they charged for the fluid and how much for labor. Mercon V is five bucks or more a quart and the other around $2.50 to $3.00 a quart.

Mercon and Mercon III DO NOT have synthetic fluid built into them but the Mercon V is part synthetic. As I understand it, you can put Mercon V in where it calls for Mercon or Mercon III. But, you CAN NOT use Mercon or Mercon III where it calls for Mercon V. Got me? I've seen all the fluids and fresh out of the container they all look sort'a reddish-pink color and as they age they get darker.

[joelmar10]

Hopefully the first tranny service was done at 60k or so. The biggest risk is having new fluid with fresh detergent in a tranny that hasn't been maintained. Any old sludge will be released and could clog the new filter very quickly. If the old filter is still in, look out. I would go ahead and have it redone soon if I didn't know the service history. Personally I do it 3000 miles apart if I don't know the history. Drop the pan both times, filter replaced and go on regular service intervals there on out. Lot cheaper than the alternative.

Also, I recently had to replace the pcv hose located under the throttle body that connects to the lower intake manifold at the rear. I have a '99 24V, 111K and had O2 sensor lean codes, poor idle and rough shifting because the hose had rotted open and too much air was being sucked into the manifold. Might want to inspect that. FYI.