INSTALLED 650cc injectors and FPR

[NateS]

Okay, so I finally got my FPR today and I installed my 650cc injectors along with the fpr. I am not familiar with the afc but, I tried my best. I put all (1k-7k rpms) in both the high and low to -31%. Kevin said to set my base settings at -31%. My low throttle point is at 35% and my high is at 70%. I think this is what I am suppose to do lol. My car seems to be running a bit lean and my air/fuel gauge is reading very lean. I know the gauges are not that accurate but still. When I punch it the car feels fine but just cruising around it feels a little shakey, especially when I let off the gas. Any info is much appreciated at this time.

[crunchymilk55]

well my calcuation also shows a -30.7, so that part isn't the problem. I don't know a lot about the safc, but does syour 02 sensor still cycle back and forth at idle? Does it still go lean enough to dissapear when deaccelerating in gear?

[NateS]

My a/f gauge basically sat at one red bar or 2 red bars for lean no matter what. I just bumped everything up to -18% and it runs a hell of alot better. The a/f gauge reads green now. My low is now set at 30% and my high is at 80%.

[crunchymilk55]

sorry i can't be that helpful with SAFC stuff, but the only thing I can think of is that I know the apexi lies to the ecu and makes it think it was 30% less airflow than it actually does, which could be why that gauge is freaking out, but again, someone who knows SAFC2 stuff will have to chime in.

[steviek]

OK if you think you are running lean only when you let off the throttle try reducing the LO throttle points. I would take them down by about five and see how the car runs.
What the safc2 does is if you've set the lo throttle point at 35% then everything up to and below 35% throttle will run at that level. Then imbetween 35-70 it will average out your HI and Lo settings depending at what part of that range your nearest too. Hence if your at 36% throttle it will be weighted 97% lo throttle correction and 3% Hi throttle correction.
Since you have both levels set to the same correction (acroos all rpms) it negates this calculation. So if you are running lean only at certain rpm/throttle levels the safc2 will correct for that. Just lower the low throttle points if thats giving you problems and see how it runs/what your A/F gauge says.
Let me know how it goes.
Also are you sure you have 650's that sounds a lot like 550's to me.

[NateS]

Okay, few things. I bumped it all down to -31% today and it ran beatifully to work this morning. Ran just like before. I go to leave work today and it starts acting funny again. So, I checked out everything and I found a damn fuel leak. It isn't real bad but, it is deffinatly a fuel leak coming from the return bolt on the FPR. Could this leak cause my shakey car? One thing is for sure. I just got off the phone with weapon R and told them that 1, the adapter that goes into the fuel rail did not fit(so I sanded it down). 2. the return bolt on the FPR leaks. They told me to take it all out and send it back. The guy was a real dickhead and argued with me that I can put my stock FPR in with my 650cc injectors and it will be fine so, I can send it back. I am just going to pull the bolt out and put some plumbers tape on it and see how it does. I am a very unsatisfied customer of Weapon R right now.

[crunchymilk55]

Well, he's right, you can run a stock FPR with 650cc's, however you can't run a stocker with the walbro255 you have. That's probably where the miscommunication was. Tell them you will have massive FPR overrun because of your FUEL PUMP, they have to know that is the case, the injectors don't matter here.

Regarding your car problems, yes, having a fuel leak not only starves your engine, but hurts fuel pressure, therefore causing all sorts of problems. It's their mistake, tell them to send you a new part and you will send your old one back.

Also I'm not sure if teflon tape is the same a plumber's tape, but that stuff works great, I use it whenever possible. It should stop the leak.

[NateS]

Yeah it is teflon tape. The nickname is plumbers tape, or at least that is what I call it. As for the leak, I tore it apart and found not one but TWO damn leaks. Weapon R is lucky I don't feel like calling them back. Anyway the return nipple was leaking at the FPR and the nipple that goes on the fuel rail was leaking too. It looks like they put little to now teflon tape on the threads. I taped them up and my no leaks as of now. My fuel pressure is sitting at 43-44ish and my fuel corrections are about the same except for LOW 1-3rpms I bumped up a little. I am almost positive now that my a/f gauge is deffinatly shit. It works half the time and mostly only on the highway. Oh, about that call and the fpr/650cc yeah I realized the fuel pump dealy like 30 minutes after I got off the phone. I was just too pissed to think. The leak didn't occur untill after I drove the car for a day. What if my car would have gone up in flames? Yeah, I was deffinatly pissed. Anyway seems like I got it all worked out unless the leaks come back. I just need a good tune right now. I think I am going to start out at about 18-19psi of boost right now. Thanks for the help everyone. BTW, still a very dissatisfied customer with weapon r.

[NateS]

BTW, anyone know of a good place to mount the FPR. I was looking and I could not find a decent place on the firewall. I have heard of people mounting them on the towers but, still no good place. If anyone has a suggestion I'm up for it because it is just sorta "secured" in the engine bay as of now.

[kjewer1]

I chose an unused bolt hole on the firewall, I think some pics on my site should illustrate this.

Another thing to check is vac leaks at the lower injector seals. Not at all uncommon on injector installations. They can really make the car run like crap.

Edit> When you do the boost leak test, wiggle the injectors a bit while spraying the soapy water.

[crunchymilk55]

and don't start tuning at 18psi, start at 15 and work your way up!

[scottsee]

Originally Posted by kjewer1

I chose an unused bolt hole on the firewall, I think some pics on my site should illustrate this.

Another thing to check is vac leaks at the lower injector seals. Not at all uncommon on injector installations. They can really make the car run like crap.

Edit> When you do the boost leak test, wiggle the injectors a bit while spraying the soapy water.

agreed ^2. Every one of my injector seals were fizzing last week when I did a boost leak test.

[crunchymilk55]

haha when I did the injector install one of them wasn't even seated in the head. That was fun trying to drive around and boost....